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Mourning Glory
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A Nice Change of Scenery S 
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Mourning Glory 

YDS: 5.14c/d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14c/d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7b [details]
FA: D.Mabe, May 2009, FFA: D.Woods, March 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,544
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The route.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Call in the Young Guns....
Start on cool belay ledge, after scrambling a short section of white quartz. A bolt on either end of the ledge intended for a dogline.

Open with an elegant traversing sequence for the first three bolts (12-) and then cruise up a ledgy ramp to the start of the ceiling. 6 draws are hanging from this 35 foot overhang. I count about 3-4 hard cruxes, with the hardest part being a burly contorted boulder-problem getting established into the ceiling. You can expect powerful, dynamic, long moves all the way to the chains. The movement on it is awesome. The stone is incredible.

EDIT: route was freed by Daniel Woods, 3/20/12, 5.14c/d, and dubbed "Mourning Glory".

Enjoy and good luck.


Location 

You can't miss it once you are up there.
Scramble 4th class for about 15 feet up a quartz-step to the belay ledge.


Protection 

11 bolts and chains anchor.
Currently I have fixed draws on all but the first one.



Photos of Mourning Glory Slideshow Add Photo
The route goes right through the center of the overhang. (Belay ledge hidden by a boulder.)
BETA PHOTO: The route goes right through the center of the ove...
Another view of my project from top of approach trail. (Sweet Tides is in the foreground.)
BETA PHOTO: Another view of my project from top of approach tr...
Glory! This line looks so impressive.
Glory! This line looks so impressive.
Comments on Mourning Glory Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Childers
Sep 22, 2009

I think this is the week that I may get a chance to try this line out. It looks really good to me. I will let you know how it goes!!!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 23, 2009

Go get it! The route and belay stay dry in a downpour, trust me....

By Luke Childers
Sep 26, 2009

Hey WildHorse,
It's very possible that today may be the day I try this line!! It's that or Primo Wall at this very second!! Care to join me?

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 27, 2009

Just go do it already!

By Luke Childers
Sep 28, 2009

You got it Monty,
No matter what... "Glory" will be my next climbing destination.....

By Luke Childers
Oct 1, 2009

Got on this line today and found it to be the coolest lines I've seen in years!!! Super hard moves with plenty of pump factor. Only dogged about half way up the line before the darkness of the night forced a retreat but I would not be shocked if this line turned out to be hard 5.14+!!! Crazy man?!?!!
Nevertheless, I feel that "Glory", when completed, will be a top contender as one of the most classic hard lines anywhere!!! It's so good I probably should not be saying anything about this unsent project. Yes, it's that good!! I can't wait to get back to work on me some "Glory."
Once again... stellar eye for a line Darren. Thanks for all your hard work bolting this line.. and just opening it up for all to try. That is just good charisma, man. What a great futuristic route. Defiantly going back A.S.A.P.!!!!!!!!!

By Jim Redo
Mar 20, 2012

Daniel Woods sent this route today in impressive fashion. 5.14c/d.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 20, 2012

Great news, Jim!! That is fantastic.