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Mourning Glory Rock Climbing
Routes in Mourning Glory
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[Redacted] S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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A Nice Change of Scenery S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Glory Hole S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Mourning Glory S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b |
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Orange Monster, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pandora's Blue Sharpie S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sweet Tides S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 7,200 ft |
| GPS: |
39.74519, -105.40409 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 16,430 total · 91/month |
| Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Jun 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This new little area sits high up on a west-facing hill side that you get a glimpse of just as you drive out of Tunnel 5 (coming towards Golden).
The crag features the namesake testpiece massive roof route,Mourning Glory, that was freed by Daniel Woods in March of 2012. There may be potential for several new routes depending on your imagination, as there are currently only two.
The hillside below the base of the routes is steep and loose. Be careful up there.
The crag features the namesake testpiece massive roof route,Mourning Glory, that was freed by Daniel Woods in March of 2012. There may be potential for several new routes depending on your imagination, as there are currently only two.
The hillside below the base of the routes is steep and loose. Be careful up there.
Getting There
This crag sits at the top of the canyon, on the north side of tunnel 5. Turn left at the stop light of the Y -junction. Park on the other side of the road, 0.2 miles, at the bridge pull-off underneath the street lamp.
Walk upstream for about 5 minutes along a trail. If you get to some short bolted routes, you went too far (this is the Fiscal Cliff). Switch back up the hill on somewhat of a trail (cairned). This takes you to the base of Sweet Tides. See the photo.
The approach takes me about 10-16 minutes.
Walk upstream for about 5 minutes along a trail. If you get to some short bolted routes, you went too far (this is the Fiscal Cliff). Switch back up the hill on somewhat of a trail (cairned). This takes you to the base of Sweet Tides. See the photo.
The approach takes me about 10-16 minutes.
L->R:
A. Sweet Tides, 11, 1p, 82', bolts.
B. Glory Hole, 13+, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Mourning Glory, 14c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D. Trail of Tears, 10- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
E1. The Orange Monster, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
E2. Pandora's Blue Sharpie, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. A Nice Change of Scenery, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Glory Hole, 13+, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Mourning Glory, 14c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D. Trail of Tears, 10- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
E1. The Orange Monster, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
E2. Pandora's Blue Sharpie, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. A Nice Change of Scenery, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mourning Glory
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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