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Start on the gully on the south westside of the tower. Hike 10-15 minutes up the gully until you see a large tree leaning against the face. Start about 15 feet up the gully from the tree on the face.
Pitch 1: start out climbing the face. The face gets lower angle and leads to a large ledge with a tree on it. Belay at the tree. 5.8.
Pitch 2: from the tree, climb straight up the gully to another large ledge (easy climbing) to a knife edge ridge. Climb up the ridge a ways and set a belay at another ledge on the ridge. 5.4.
Pitch 3: keep climbing the ridge until another large ledge below a face with a crack splitting the face. 5.4.
Pitch 4: climb the crack that splits the face up to another large ledge and traverse to the summit. Really fun pitch!! 5.6.
Descent: downclimb from the summit to the south. You will be able to see some cord wrapped on some good blocks. A single rope rappel lands you on a ledge to where you can walk to the gully. Follow the gully to the creek.
Cross the creek via a log near the pullout. Hike to the right of the the tower to the gully.
|Comments on Mountaineer's Route
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Oct 10, 2009
We did this route in the dead of winter, temps below zero. See description under photo of the tower in the general Spring Creek section. I lead the last 2 pitches after dark, covered with verglass.
Jul 11, 2011
New rap cord and rap rings.
|By Greg Sievers|
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 9, 2012
Yeah, exploring is all great, but just to expedite the situation for the next guy:
1p - begin 10' right of the dead tree as described in the Malloy book. Yes, it's 5.8, but the last 25' are run out on slab, and belay at the large Douglas fir.
2p - ramble out to the RIGHT, following a gully toward another tree on the right end of a ledge (the elevation is even to the saddle in the ridge & the multi-geandarmed ridge to the left).
3p - the books says "climb a crack in the middle of the orange face, 7+". I'd say: locate a series of cracks and columns on the orange south face (60' tall). I climbed what I thought was the easiest line = the bulging base means commiting to the overhang. Climb discontinuous cracks while changing columns up and left, 5.9-.
4p - ramble along the ridge between broken, loose choss for 50'. Drop down 10', cross a notch, arriving at the obvious, 5.6 hand crack. You'll run out of rope about 15' below the actual summit. Belay on a platform.
From that platform:
scramble to the main summit on your left (the gray rock on the right is 5-10' lower).
From the platform: down scramble 20' behind a large chockstone to the rap anchor.
The rap anchor is 11mm rope w/ 2 steel rings.
The rope is now showing some surface wear.
Rap 80' to a ledge that you can walk off to rapper's right to gain the loose, dirty, dead-tree choked gully.
We found it extremely valuable to bring our trail shoes.
|By gavin hermann|
Sep 25, 2012
Such a fun climb route finding between pitches 1-2-3 can be tricky but not bad cruiser though! Last pitch is really fun, awesome crack with great gear.
|By Paul Davidson|
Jun 28, 2013
Ignore that bit about the Malloy book above and wandering out right.
Just follow the original posted instructions and the route finding on this thing is trivial. You cannot miss the knife edge arete. If in doubt, climb just left of the arete where it's obviously easy.
Quite fun, quite easy. I'm sure you could wander all over this rock and add harder things if you wanted to.
Damn there's a lot of rock in Spring Creek. Interesting there's only this one longer route. There must be more similar things.
BTW - we did a different first pitch. Due to a late start, we went further up gully to the next obvious ledge (with the big dead downed logs).
Start by a small pine, up and left (from that spot you could third class over to the big doug fir at the top of the normal first pitch.) 5.6-5.8 depending on where you step. Head for the big ledge below the arete up left. You might want to head up the arete a bit to set a belay then stretch a long pitch to the base of the 5.6 hand crack. Or belay on the big ledge below the arete.
I found the descent gully to be easy and open. Just a quick jaunt back to the packs.
Jun 28, 2013
Paul, your first pitch is the way I usually take when soloing. I have soloed first pitch before, and it gets your blood going pulling on dirty loose flakes! Definitely one of the better solos in the area for a moderate outing (probably soloed it a dozen times in college and 5-10 times since then). Many opportunities for adventure on this piece of rock.