Mountain Devil Dike
|495 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.12d [details]|
|FA: ||Brad Wilson, Dulcinea Groff 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||BradWilson on Dec 6, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Photo courtesy of Scotty Nelson
The Mountain Devil Dike begins after the second pitch of the Michael Strassman Memorial Route and climbs the less prominent dike straight up. All anchors have two ring bolts.
P1 (5.7) MSMR
P3 (5.10) Climb out left clip the pin on MSMR then climb the dike straight up.
P4 (5.12) Climb the dike to the hole then go right to the belay ledge.
P5 (5.11) Climb the corner, then up and left on the face (5.9R). After some slabbing, get back on the dike!
P6 (5.10) Climb right past a groove and continue down & right into a groove/corner. Go up the corner then slightly right.
Rappel the route.
Approach duration 2-3 hrs from the Tuttle Creek trail head. For a detailed description on how to get here see the MSMR page. I found the 2 springs located past the stone house to be quite reliable.
(2) blue tcu to C4#2, nuts optional
(4) 24" slings
(2) 48" slings
(2) 60m ropes
South Face of Lone Pine Peak from the stone house.
The crew on my first trip to Lone Pine Peak. Phot...
|Comments on Mountain Devil Dike
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 6, 2012
Nicely done, Brad! I've done the MSMR next door, and I can only assume this line is of similar quality, albeit substantially more difficult.