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Lone Pine Peak
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Bastille Buttress - Beckey Route T 
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Mountain Devil Dike 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brad Wilson, Dulcinea Groff 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,499
Submitted By: BradWilson on Dec 6, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Photo courtesy of Scotty Nelson

Description 

The Mountain Devil Dike starts after the second pitch of the Michael Strassman Memorial Route and climbs the dike straight up. The route includes difficult, varied, and sustained pitches, interesting holds and sequences, no hanging belays, and stunning views. I recommend edging shoes for the crux pitch. Anchors have been equipped with two stainless ring hangers.

Route Description

P1 (5.7) "Climb the dike up the pedestal angling up and right toward a bush then follow the ramp up and left. At the top of the pedestal (sling horn for pro) traverse left into a left-facing corner that angles up and right. From here traverse right into a smaller ramp and head out across the face to a discontinuous dike that leads to a mantle then a roof and a belay." (copied from MSMR page)

P2 (5.10) "Climb up and right passing 4 bolts then get into the right facing corner. Climb this until it ends and move up and left passing a bolt then angling right toward a prominent ledge." (copied from MSMR page)

P3 (5.10) Climb out left and clip the pin on MSMR, then climb flakes up and left and enjoy the only big holds you'll find on this dike. Balency climbing leads to exciting moves after the last bolt and the belay ledge.

P4 (5.12+) Climb the dike to gear and a rest. Slab past a bolt to a rest. A hard, sequential sequence leads up to the crux move. From the hole climb right passing a couple bolts on 5.10 terrain to the belay ledge. You'll need a cheater stick to clip-up through the crux.

P5 (5.11+) Classic. Climb the short 5.8 corner, and go up and left on the face via AWESOME holds (5.9R). (Do not climb too high onto the hollow-looking flake) Place a hand size cam at your feet with a 48" runner and commit to the 5.10+ moves up and right gaining another stance and hand size piece & 48" sling. Climb right to regain the dike which is bolt protected from here. Perfect golden scoops of granite engulf the dike and leads you to a crux mantle move after a couple of bolts. Continue up via easier climbing to another crux sequence. At the last bolt climb directly right through a scoop, then up to an obvious rail. Follow this to the anchors and a small but comfortable perch.

P6 (5.10+) Climb right off of the belay passing a bolt and into a groove. Climb the groove, find gear, and step right onto the face. Clip another bolt and figure out the sequence down & right, making your way into another groove corner. Climb the corner, sling some gear long to avoid rope drag, then slab up and right past a final bolt to the anchors.


Descent

Rappel the route with two 60M ropes. One MAY be able to rappel straight down to MSMR and rappel that route from the P6 anchor to avoid the traversing nature of P6, but I did not try this. Knot your ropes if you attempt this descent.


Location 

Approach duration 2-3 hrs from the Tuttle Creek trail head. For a detailed description on how to get here see the MSMR page. I found the 2 springs located past the stone house to be quite reliable.


Protection 

(2) blue tcu to C4#2, nuts optional
(8) draws
(4) 24" slings
(2) 48" slings
(2) 60m ropes



Photos of Mountain Devil Dike Slideshow Add Photo
P4 FA
P4 FA
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By Richard Shore
Dec 6, 2012

Nicely done, Brad! I've done the MSMR next door, and I can only assume this line is of similar quality, albeit substantially more difficult.

By Josh Janes
Jul 2, 2013

In the video you call the crux 12- ...assuming that was a mistake? Is the 12+ slab or edging or something else?

By BradWilson
Jul 5, 2013

Right, I think its 5.12+.