Mountain Devil Dike  5.12d

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Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Brad Wilson, Dulcinea Groff 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  BradWilson on Dec 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Photo courtesy of Scotty Nelson

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Description 

The Mountain Devil Dike begins after the second pitch of the Michael Strassman Memorial Route and climbs the less prominent dike straight up. All anchors have two ring bolts.

Route Description

P1 (5.7) MSMR

P2 (5.10)MSMR

P3 (5.10) Climb out left clip the pin on MSMR then climb the dike straight up.

P4 (5.12) Climb the dike to the hole then go right to the belay ledge.

P5 (5.11) Climb the corner, then up and left on the face (5.9R). After some slabbing, get back on the dike!

P6 (5.10) Climb right past a groove and continue down & right into a groove/corner. Go up the corner then slightly right.


Descent

Rappel the route.

Location 

Approach duration 2-3 hrs from the Tuttle Creek trail head. For a detailed description on how to get here see the MSMR page. I found the 2 springs located past the stone house to be quite reliable.

Protection 

(2) blue tcu to C4#2, nuts optional
(8) draws
(4) 24" slings
(2) 48" slings
(2) 60m ropes

Photos of Mountain Devil Dike Slideshow

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P4 FA	South Face of Lone Pine Peak from the stone house.	The crew on my first trip to Lone Pine Peak. Phot...