Mountain Devil Dike
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The Mountain Devil Dike begins after the second pitch of the Michael Strassman Memorial Route and climbs the beautiful dike straight up. The route includes difficult, varied, and sustained pitches, interesting holds and sequences, no hanging belays, and stunning views. That being said, like most alpine climbs, big scary fall potential does exist on the route if you were to slip at the wrong place. I recommend edging shoes for the crux pitch. All anchors have been equipped with two stainless ring hangers.
P1 (5.7) "Climb the dike up the pedestal angling up and right toward a bush then follow the ramp up and left. At the top of the pedestal (sling horn for pro) traverse left into a left-facing corner that angles up and right. From here traverse right into a smaller ramp and head out across the face to a discontinuous dike that leads to a mantle then a roof and a belay." (copied from MSMR page)
P2 (5.10) "Climb up and right passing 4 bolts then get into the right facing corner. Climb this until it ends and move up and left passing a bolt then angling right toward a prominent ledge." (copied from MSMR page)
P3 (5.10) Climb out left and clip the pin on MSMR, then climb flakes up and left and enjoy the only big holds you'll find on this dike. Balency climbing leads to exciting moves after the last bolt and the belay ledge.
P4 (5.12+) Climb the dike via pinches & high-steps to gear and a rest. Slab up past a bolt to a rest left of the dike, and get ready for the business. A hard and sequential sequence leads up to the crux move (V6?) and then edges, and to the cool hole/jug. Climb right passing a couple bolts on 5.10 terrain to the belay ledge. You'd need a cheater stick to A0 the crux.
P5 (5.11+) Classic. Climb the short 5.8 corner, place gear then go up and left on the face via AWESOME holds (5.9R). Do not follow the corner too high onto the hollow-looking flake! Place some hand size gear downward at your feet, sling it long, commit to the thin 5.10+ moves up and right gaining another corner and stance. Place another hand size piece + long sling and step right to regain the dike (bolt protected from here). PHENOMINAL golden rock engulfs the dike with perfectly sculpted holds and leads you to a 5.11+\12- mantle-esque move after a couple of the bolts. Continue up via easier climbing to another 5.11 sequence. At the last bolt climb directly right then up to an obvious rail that leads right a few feet to the anchors and a small but comfortable perch.
P6 (5.10+) Climb right off of the belay passing a bolt and into a groove. Climb the groove, find gear high, and step right onto the face. Clip another bolt and figure out the sequence down & right, making your way into another groove corner. Climb the corner, sling some gear long to avoid rope drag, then slab up and right past a final bolt to the anchors.
Rappel the route with two 60M ropes. One MAY be able to rappel straight down to MSMR and rappel that route from the P6 anchor to avoid the traversing nature of P6, but I did not try this. Knot your ropes if you attempt this descent.
Please provide any feedback here if you climb this route to help generate a consensus on the grade!
Approach duration 2-3 hrs from the Tuttle Creek trail head. For a detailed description on how to get here see the MSMR page. I found the 2 springs located past the stone house to be quite reliable.
(2) blue tcu to C4#2, nuts optional
(4) 24" slings
(2) 48" slings
(2) 60m ropes
South Face of Lone Pine Peak from the stone house.
The crew on my first trip to Lone Pine Peak. Phot...
|Comments on Mountain Devil Dike
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 6, 2012
Nicely done, Brad! I've done the MSMR next door, and I can only assume this line is of similar quality, albeit substantially more difficult.
Jun 3, 2013
Thanks Richard! I've never climbed the super dike, but can assure you that this route is of high quality.
|By Josh Janes|
Jul 2, 2013
In the video you call the crux 12- ...assuming that was a mistake? Is the 12+ slab or edging or something else?
Jul 5, 2013
Right, I think its 12+, although it is not ultra sustained. The business is a hard sequence of slabby feet & micro crimps that builds up to a sweet move.