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Mount Watkins Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in N. Mount Watkins

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	South Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C2+ PG13
	Teabag Wisdom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Twisted Road, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

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Elevation:	8,485 ft
GPS:	37.78289, -119.51727 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	28,922 total · 261/month
Shared By:	Karsten Duncan on Mar 11, 2015
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

Despite its massive size, Mt. Watkins is the least recognizable of Yosemite's walls to most tourists and climbers. This grand wall rises 4,400 feet above the valley floor and is larger in mass than half dome. Because of its particular aspect and location most only appreciate the enormity of the monolith if hiking down Tenaya canyon or from the summit of half dome. Like half dome's north face, glaciers have made their mark by cutting off the south edge of the Watkins creating a massive vertical wall of interesting corners, sweeping sheer faces, and the striking Watkins pinnacles on its west end. A defining character of this monolith is its remoteness. The wall contains a handful of routes but many with just a few ascents.

Getting There

Approach:
Generally allow 2.5 to 5 hours depending on if you are hauling bags and your ability to find the correct route the first time. Starting from either the Majestic hotel (Ahwahanee) or Half Dome (Curry) Village take one of the many trails leading toward Mirror lake. Continue east on the Mirror Lake loop trail on the north side of the lake. Just before the large bridge crossing Tenaya creek cut off the established trail and continue heading upstream along a sometimes difficult to follow faint climber trail. A conveniently located log allows for easy crossing of snow creek but can be treacherous during high water times. Generally avoid gaining elevation for another 1.25 miles. You will likely be tempted to cut up early but again stay low and pass almost the entire south face of Watkins. When just past the main face a gentle slope will head up the main wall. At the base, start up on 4th to easy 5th class terrain. Often there are fixed lines here. Work your way up moderate 5th class climbing first heading up and left then cutting back right finally reaching a large ledge system that is the start of most of the walls routes. From the Majestic (Ahwahanee) to the first scrambling is about 4.25 miles and takes maybe 2 hours without heavy bags. Another 20 minutes (if not hauling) will get you to the base of the more vertical section and traditional start of the routes. With heavy bags would allow at least 4-5 hours.