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Mount Sir Donald

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Northwest Ridge T 

Mount Sir Donald 


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Elevation: 10,774'
Location: 51.2632, -117.4325 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,519
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 9, 2008
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Sir D from across the valley. The classic NW ridg...

Description 

Mount Sir Donald is is one of the premier destinations for Mountaineering in BC, especially alpine rock climbing. Even without a Fifty Classics route (the Northwest Ridge) it would be popular as it presents a beautiful profile from the highway. This profile is very much reminiscent of the classic shots of the Matterhorn.

While there are other routes on the peak, up to about 5.9, and all sides, 95% of the ascents or more are on the Northwest ridge.

Unlike many alpine rock climbs in the BC interior, this one requires no glacier travel and while many do bivy at the base, it can be done in a day car-to-car.

First ascent of the peak was by Emil Huber, Carl Sulzer, and Harry Cooper in 1890 via the SW face.


Getting There 

Mount Sir Donald is located in Glacier National Park (the Canadian one) along the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy. 1). Once in the park, look for the Illecillewaet campground. The trail to the Sir Donald-Uto col starts here. Info about Glacier National park here and information about the Alpine Club of Canada's Wheeler Hut here

Excellent map of Glacier and Mt. Revelstoke Parks here

It's about a 630km drive from Vancouver or 350km drive from Calgary. It could be accessed from the US via a variety of routes aiming more-or-less north from either Coeur d'Alene or Spokane (about 560km or 350miles from either).


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Sir Donald:
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   
Browse More Classics in Mount Sir Donald

Featured Route For Mount Sir Donald
The NW Ridge looking head-on from the descent off of Uto.

Northwest Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c North America : Canada : ... : Mount Sir Donald
This is one of best long moderate rock routes anywhere. Inclusion in the Fifty Classics was well warranted, but certainly hasn't made it crowded. When we did it, we were the first in eight days according to the summit register and the weather had been great for weeks. A bear-related closure of the approach trail might have had something to do with it though.Many people bivy just below the Sir Donald-Uto col, but the hike can be done in under three hours, so you can time it to reach the route...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mount Sir Donald Slideshow Add Photo
Mount Sir Donald Map <br />contour interval:100 meters <br /> <br />Blue squares - Northwest Arete <br />Yellow - fixed rappel descent <br />Red - Beckey-Chouinard N Face <br />Violet - West Face <br /> <br />Big red sq - Wheeler Hut <br />Light Blue sq - Vaux Bivouac <br />Violet Square - Uto Col  <br /> <br />At right, Beaver-Duncan Trench, Selkirks west, Purcells east.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Sir Donald Map
contour interval:100 meters

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