|Mount Rushmore National Memorial
Mt. Rushmore National Memorial climbing offers amazing pegmatite granite climbing that ranges from 10' boulders to over 400' traditional routes all with great access. The area has climbing on every aspect, allowing the season to run from spring to fall with an occasional winter day (South Dakota weather depending). Rock quality is generally very good, as is most protection.
Mt. Rushmore National Memorial Climbers Guide by Vernon R. Phinney
Free Camping: Wrinkled Rock
Main Hub: Rapid City
From: Mt. Rushmore National Memorial Entrance stoplight.
Head west on SD-244 Peter Norbeck Scenic Hwy, away from Keystone for approx 1.1 mi. There will be a shoulder pull-off on the right hand side of the road. This is the Emancipation/ Inner Marker Parking Area.
Marker/Monster Parking Area, continue up the road approx (350') to approx the 1.2 mile mark from the entrance, to another shoulder pull-off on the left side of the road. There is a climbers sign-in kiosk at the entrance.
South Seas/Chopping Block Paved Parking Lot is approx (.4 mi) further up the road at approx the 1.6 mile mark from the entrance located adjacent to the Mt Rushmore Memorial Sign. There are climber sign-in kiosks on both sides of the road. SS is on the NE side of the road and Chopping Block is on the SW side of the road.
Wrinkled Rock Free Campground is another (.1 mi) up the road on the right at approx the 1.7 mile mark from the entrance, designated with a sign.
Breezy Point, continue up 244 an additional (.2 mi); it is on the right and also signed, it is located at approx the 1.9 mile mark from the entrance light.
Web Link to Google Map:
492 Total Routes
['4 Stars',103],['3 Stars',190],['2 Stars',134],['1 Star',57],['Bomb',2]
Browse More Classics in Mount Rushmore National Memorial
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Rushmore National Memorial:
Featured Route For Mount Rushmore National Memorial
The Cavity V3 6A SD
: Mount Rushmore National Mem...
: ... : Upper Emancipation
Get your friends together and bring all of the pads you have for this absolutely classic problem. Why? Because you guys are about to climb the best V3 in South Dakota and unfortunately it doesn't have the best landing. Start on big sidepulls at five feet and get into the "CAVITY". Now get a big undercling and reach up to a sidepull up and left...reach with your right hand over the lip to a jug using intermediates if needed. I'd recommend going to the top and cleaning off the pine needles before ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
|Comments on Mount Rushmore National Memorial
|By Andy Busse|
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 2, 2009
Rushmore Route INFO:
Please submit any info if you would like it included in the new book using the following format as best as possible.
Formation Name (Range ###’ - ###’)
Location (GPS N##°##.### W###°##.###): Describe the formation area.
Description: As needed.
Approach: Try to use only landmarks, cardinal directions, and distances in ft.
Descent: If Walk-Off, how, where. Rappel (2 ropes if needed) (Anchor Type)
Rating **** Route Name (Trad/Mixed/Sport / Length)
Location: MIN UTILIZING OTHER ROUTES FOR ORIENTATION! USE LANDMARKS AND CARDINAL DIRECTIONS
Description: (Magnetic Facing) Route description.
Protection: Cams: __-_”, Chocks, Micro-Chocks, _ bolts.
Descent: If different from formation descent.
(FA: First Ascent Party; YR Ground Up iff*)
Jul 4, 2011
Here's the latest I've found regarding climbing regulations for any folks from not around the area (myself included).
|By Mikel Cronin|
Jul 29, 2011
Here is the latest and greatest on Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone. There has been another delay on the printing. So Sharpend and I have worked out a deal on the e-books. I am now selling e-books for the same price of $28.00. So if you have prepaid for a book already I will give your contact information to Sharpend and they will send you the e-book link then you will get a hard copy when they arrive. If you want an early e-book, give me your email so I can invoice you and get an e-book on the way to you. If you have any questions on this deal please contact me. Remember 5% of sales through me goes to the local bolt and anchor repair fund. My contact info can be found at www.blackhillsclimbingguide.com
|By Jason McNabb|
Feb 11, 2012
IMPORTANT ACCESS ISSUES:
Mt. Rushmore is looking to revamp their climbing management policy regarding parking along the highway (Emancipation, Monster, Marker), the trails to the climbs themselves, and possibly re-writing the overall management plan in conjunction with the Forest Service to cover all areas of the Rushmore climbing area. Bruce Weisman from MORU is coming to the BHCC meeting this Wed. to discuss the plan with climbers and to get input as they are in the planning stages at this point and are looking for input during a public comment period until the 28th of Feb.
In addition to this, The Rapid City Parks Department is proposing to close the Vegan Boulder/Founder’s Rock to all climbing due to concern about the historic etchings and signatures being eroded and damaged from climbing and other activity. As a result of this, the Parks department is also interested in working with local climbers in a project to install synthetic boulders in a city park space (possibly Founder’s Park). Jerry Cole from
the Parks Department is coming to the Black Hills Climbers Coalition Meeting this Feb. 15th at the School of Mines (meeting room is at Classroom Building 204W).
Come meet with Jerry, Bruce, and other climbers to hear the details of the proposals, provide input, and be a part of the process moving forward. Please spread the word and hope to see you all at the meeting.
|By Jason McNabb|
Mar 11, 2012
Here is the info for the open house that Rushmore is hosting to receive input on the following topics. Lets try and get as many people as possible to the meeting. Please spread the word and hope to see you there.
Mount Rushmore Rock Climbing Area Open House
KEYSTONE, SD: The public is invited to attend an open house at the Keystone Community Center on Wednesday, March 14, from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. to provide input on the safety and environmental issues related to parking and hiking access to six rock climbing areas within Mount Rushmore National Memorial.
The discussion will be limited to the following six climbing areas: South
Seas, Chopping Block, Olton’s Shoulder, Monster, Middle Marker, and
Emancipation. Dialogue concerning trail access, maintenance, safety and parking as well as additional potential impacts on the area will be the focus of conversation. National Park Service staff will be available to
answer questions and record public input.
Suggestions and comments may be submitted electronically via the National Park Service Planning, Environment, and Public Comment website:
For those unable to submit
electronically, written comments may be hand-delivered to the visitor
center at Mount Rushmore National Memorial or mailed to Attention:
Bruce Weisman, Mount Rushmore National Memorial, 13000 Highway 244 Building 31, Suite 1, Keystone, SD 57751.
All initial comments must be submitted by: March 28, 2012.
|By Dave Rone|
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Mar 12, 2012
Thanks for posting this information about the new plan. Has either the Park or climbing communtiy proposed anything yet regarding parking or access to these areas?
|By Jason McNabb|
Mar 13, 2012
Here is a link to the Brochure that highlights it more clearly. Not sure what options they are going to propose as far as parking etc. I think they will go through that at the meeting, and then I'll post something to clarify here afterwards. People who can't make the meeting can send comments and suggestions to the Park electronically.
Weather is getting nice around here....hope to see you out here again this summer.
Here is the link:
|By Jason McNabb|
Mar 26, 2012
The comment period for the Mt. Rushmore highway improvement and environmental assessment is coming up March 28. After attending the scoping meeting and speaking with the Mt. Rushmore staff the BHCC came up with the following recommendations for Rushmore. Take a look over this and please send in a comment to Bruce at the address provided. Rushmore is going to take the input and develop different alternatives that the public can once again provide input and commentary on before making a decision.
I am meeting with Bruce Weisman on Monday April 2nd to hike some of the trails and see what where we can eliminate some trails and make some other changes if necessary. I believe we are going to meet at 4:00 at the Wrinkled Rock Trailhead. If you can make it and would like to join in and provide some input.....please do so. At this point they are looking for input to help them come up with their alternative plans.
Federal Funding to improve hwy and do an environmental assessment of the trails and rare plants. Please give your input to Bruce Weismen at Mt Rushmore National Memorial 13000 HWY 244 Building 31 Suite 1 Keystone, SD 57751 prior to March 28th. You can also do this on the website at parkplanning.nps.gov/moru/ (you might have to click another link or two at this point to provide comments). There has been discussion of removing parking at the Rushmore Memorial Sign close to Wrinkle Rock Parking Lot. There has been pressure from the DOT to remove this parking due to safety concerns. Forest Service Plans to expand to 40 parking spots at Wrinkle Rock and add some tent pads to this area. Ideally, we could keep the parking open to prevent having to cross the highway to reach Chopping Block but ideas of alternative are to have a cross walk and change the speed limit and have pedestrian signs and possible rumble strip. If parking does get closed to make sure Wrinkle Rock expansion is completed prior to closure. Other areas open for comments are revamping the kiosks. Adding one at South Seas near Squirrels Alley, another at North Park and one at Emancipation to notify climbers of the new restricted access to that area (You must rappel and cannot hike off through the Vale of Tranquility). Also restoration of trails near New Number 9 and Way Cool Junior to help stabilize the area. Some extra trails where numerous trails go to climbs may be able to be eliminated. For example the ones coming from the north east into Boylesque, just have one good trail. The trail headed to Garfield could be improved. Remap the trail to Baldy and have some markers. Discussion of possible new trails? Do a loop thru marker and down through Emancipation. The trail from Mt Rushmore parking S to the Mickelson trail to Blackberry is dangerous currently for horses. We recommend having a map of the area at the kiosks.
Thanks for your time and effort and for keeping involved in the climbing community!.
|By Wilson On The Drums|
From: Woodbury, MN
Jun 5, 2012
Does anyone have any beta on the mixed routes on "Sanitarium?" It looks like (from L-R) that there are 4 established routes.. the 1st is bolted/vertical face climbing (big pocket at the start with a birds nest in it), the 2nd has a bolt high off the deck and follows a roof to a crack to 2 more bolts, the 3rd follows a crack/corner to a slightly bulged off-width to upper crack with 2 bolts, and then the 4th follows a crack system to 2 bolts up high. I climbed the 3rd one today and felt it was one of the best climbs I've been on in, great movement, good jams, good rests, hard climbing, felt solid 10. Any info about it would be appreciated. Also there is some nice slabby boulder problems at the base too, grades, names, FAs?
|By Brent Kertzman|
From: Black Hills, SD
Mar 15, 2013
U.S. Forest Service - News Release
Parking Lot at Wrinkled Rock Climbing Area Closed
Custer, SD – For approximately 4 weeks, the parking lot at Wrinkled Rock climbing area, located near the west entrance to Mount Rushmore National Memorial, will be closed for public safety for construction work.
The climbing rocks and Forest near the parking lot location will not be affected by the closure.
The Black Hills National Forest is working to finish a National Scenic Byway grant project at Wrinkled Rock which includes increasing the parking lot size by 12 additional parking spots.
Last fall, another portion of the project was completed with erosion repairs done on the trail that leads to the climbing rocks. “We are planning to install new interpretive signs early this summer,” said Dave Pickford, Hell Canyon Recreation Specialist, Black Hills National Forest.
“We would also like to remind folks to “stay on the trail” and avoid cross-country travel to protect soils and vegetation,” said Pickford.
For more information on the Black Hills National Forest, call (605) 673-9200, email r2 blackhills email@example.com, or visit, www.fs.usda.gov/blackhills
|By Matt Chan|
Mar 25, 2014
It's been many years since I've visited Rushmore and I remember it being very hot and muggy in the summer. Anyone have a suggestion for an ideal time to visit to bag some routes? Thanks!
|By Mike Housiaux|
From: Rapid City
Mar 25, 2014
I find the best times are late summer/ Fall and Spring being the best for cooler temps and the best friction. Hope this helps.