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Mount Proteus

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Allen-Horvath/Tempus Fugit T 

Mount Proteus  


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Elevation: 10,660'
Location: 50.9532, -117.4231 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 213
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Sep 20, 2011
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MOUNT PROTEUS scale 1 : 50,000 contour interval 10...

INTRODUCTION

The highest and most glaciated of the peak of the Mellville Group. The first ascent was in 1947 by N. Brewster and Mr. & Mrs. A.J. Kauffman. From Beaton, BC, They traveled up the Incommapleux* River to Kellie Creek and then climbed up to a high camp on the west ridge of Obstacle Mountain. Summit day was over Obstacle (9,150') and then up glacier and neve to the summit.


  • native name

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Climbing Season



Weather station 13.6 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mount Proteus
MELVILLE GROUP <br />1961 Westfall Map <br />contour interval 100 feet <br />1 km grid <br /> <br />AHAB <br />black box - Pequod Pass <br />red - South Face Spur <br />orange - Boomerang <br />yellow - Oh no! Wall <br />green - north glacier <br /> <br />PROTEUS <br />blue blob - Houston Lake <br />lite blue - crevassed glacier <br />blue - 1947 <br />violet - Tempus Fugit <br /> <br />lite blue - glacier <br />dark blue - Houston Lk

Allen-Horvath/Tempus Fugit 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow  North America : Canada : ... : Mount Proteus
Paul Allen and Steven Horvath got a late start on July 27th due to racing clouds in the morning, yet got up a 22 pitch rock climb in six hours that day. The route starts dirty, then cleans up and eases off, finishing on an exposed arete. No word on descent route or method of approach. (CAJ, p81, 1989)Watch out for the crevasses on the approach. My 1961 map shows no permanent snow on the approach. However, peakfinder shows lots of crevasses. The missing glacier is marked with light blue on the...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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