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Mount Oscar

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ben Zen Send T 
Charismatic Mime T,TR 
Crescent T 
Doh - Crescent Direct Finish T,S 
Moose Spirit T 
Oscar the Grouch T,S 
Raven Ridge T 
Unknown right T 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mount Oscar  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.2494, -71.483 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,515
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: john strand on Jul 12, 2008
Forecast:
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Description 

SW face . Semi-secluded but with an easy approach from the Zealand area. About 10 routes put up I believe by Uwe Schneider in the late 80's. Good rock, many bolts.

Getting There 

From Zealand, go south on the road for a couple of miles to a small parking area, cross the stream on a bike path and head SE (easy )after about 25 minutes, a steep slab appears through the trees on your left- above a clearing.

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Oscar:
Crescent   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Charismatic Mime   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 85'   
Unknown right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Oscar the Grouch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Sport   
Browse More Classics in Mount Oscar

Featured Route For Mount Oscar
Ryan Nicholson on the Crescent, 5.7

Crescent 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NH : Mount Oscar
A nice climb up a right facing corner, that leads to a bolt and then some nice balancy moves up to a really cool ledge. Finish up the left slanting exit crack to the trees...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mount Oscar Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Oscar
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Oscar
15 minute walk along a grassy old logging road leads to the climbers trail, marked by a cairn. (10 minutes to go)
15 minute walk along a grassy old logging road lea...
Wasabi Groove, 5.8.
BETA PHOTO: Wasabi Groove, 5.8.
Mt. Oscar slabs
Mt. Oscar slabs
Another shot of Charismatic Mime.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of Charismatic Mime.
Crescent Crack and, to its right, two bolted face climbs.
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack and, to its right, two bolted face ...
1.	Crescent 5.7  <br />This nice 5.7 starts at the obvious right facing flake and crack start (defines boundary between two walls) then trends up and left and finishes on slabs above and out of sight. There is a bolted direct finish to this climb as well called Doh! (think Homer Simpson).  <br />FA: Joe and Judy Perez  <br /> <br />Variation 1a: Direct Finish 5.11a  <br />FA: Jon Sykes &  <br /> <br />2.	___?_______ 5.9 75  <br />Climb the center bolted face to two bolt belay.  <br /> <br />VARIATION 2a: DIRECT FINISH 5.11b 50  <br />Five bolts to the top.  <br />FA: Jon Sykes & Mike Lee  <br />FFA: Chris Marks & Jon Sykes Spring 2010  <br /> <br />3.	_____?______ 5.9 110  <br />Slab/face with series of bolts leading to 15 foot crack leading to a white prow. Crack converts to a left facing corner that defines the left side of the prow.  <br /> <br />4.	Ben Zen Send 5.8 100  <br />Start at left facing flake that leads to a left ascending diagonal crack. Traverse 10 on this crack and climb face above that links three intermittent crescent cracks to the top. Can seep after rainy days.  <br />FA: Ben Mirkin & Jon Sykes Spring 2009  <br /> <br />5.	Moose Spirit 5.10- 120  <br />Right facing flake (to right of Ben Zen Send). Climb flake through overlap to bolt. Climb straight up to 25 exit crack.  <br />History: Jon Sykes put in the bolts believing that he was doing the original ascent. Ben Savage and Bill Kieler claimed an earlier ascent.  <br />ACB: Ben Savage & Bill Kieler
BETA PHOTO: 1. Crescent 5.7
This nice 5.7 starts at the obvio...
Bipolar Brain Flush
BETA PHOTO: Bipolar Brain Flush
Overview photo of Mt. Oscar. Showing the right side of the main Mt. Oscar cliff in relationship to the West Wall of Mt. Oscar.
BETA PHOTO: Overview photo of Mt. Oscar. Showing the right sid...

Comments on Mount Oscar Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2014
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 18, 2009
Great cliff with fun climbing.
By burlap submariner
Sep 22, 2009
there are much more than ten routes now, most of the development has been from sykes/cunningham and crew, some really stunning lines.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 23, 2010
The approach for this crag is very easy, I believe it has been altered since John's description from recent logging activity. Drive down the Zealand Notch road to a parking lot on the right just before a bridge. Walk down the gated logging road on the left side of the road, just before the parking lot. Look for a small rock cairn in a clearing on the left side of the dirt road. Follow this trail to were it comes to the cliff at the base of Crescent.
This is a truly awesome place to crag on fun moderates. It is very user friendly with generous use of bolts. It took me a little while to get use to seeing some bolts where, from time spent at cathedral, I would not have expected them.
A rudimentary guide for this area can be found here:neclimbs.com/forum.php
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 23, 2010
So the link just takes you to the forums I guess. From there go to the forum " New Rock Routes" and find "Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mount Oscar."
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Feb 13, 2011
hey so i read on thenotches.com/ that this is off the back side of bretton woods. is it off there west mountain and is there anyway to gain acces from the top of west mountain at bretton woods?
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Feb 14, 2011
neclimbs.com/index.php?PageNam...

rest of the routes are here and you can find more with beta photos in the forum section under "new rock route" look for mt. oscar
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
May 8, 2011
what town is this area in ,having some trouble finding that out
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Aug 23, 2011
The GPS coordinates are 44.24938,-71.482987

maps.google.com/maps?q=44.2493...
By Robert Hall
Sep 27, 2013
There are really TWO "Mt. Oscar's". The "USUAL Mt Oscar" is the one off the Zealand Road, with most of the 5.7 - 5.10 bolted routes, and the woods road approach past the old "Moose Heaven". (now, thankfully, unused by the State of NH).
The Breton Woods Hotel guides have developed a more slabby cliff off the backside of West Mt. in the ski area. Unfortunately this is also called "Mt Oscar". The normal approach is to take the (free in summer) chairlift ride on the "Bethlehem" quad, walk up to the col just south of West Mt. (near top of Zealand Quad chairlift) and then hike down 15min. to the base. A few nice beginner slab and easy crack routes. The ski lodge at the base sells a one-page photo guide for $3.
I do not know if the two cliffs are actually connected, but one guide told me the "Zealand Mt Oscar" could be reached in "another 20-30 minutes, so I'd guess they are separate.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 27, 2013
I wish they'd just refer to the slabs behind Breton Woods as the "West Wall". However, it's all connected and you can walk along the bottom of that entire cliff band to reach the main Oscar walls.

Click here for topo (since using an img tag screws up the website)
By Robert Hall
Oct 29, 2013
I guess only the "administrator" can do something as simple as moving a climb from "unsorted" to "sorted", and then sort them in proper position. Since the trail comes up at Cresent, this cliff is a classic "left to right" sort. DUH !
Try the website "neclimbs.com" for good descripions of other routes on Oscar. For the record, the order (left to right) is:
Crescent
Unknown 5.9
Unknown #2 5.9
Ben Zen Send
Moose Sprit 5.10a
Moose Meat (Rancid) 5.10a
...Tripleishes 5.10a
Coffee Achievers 5.11a
French Roast Variation 5.11a
Bipolar Brain Flush 5.9
Bipolar Brain Fart Variation 5.8R
Oscar's Last Stand 5.10a
Bob Loblaw 5.7+
Unknown 5.10a
Ugly Dirty 5.7
Vegetated Gulley 5.1 Uhg!
Cunningham's Crusade 5.8
CC Direct Start Variation 5.6X
Three Bubba's Triology 5.11a
Unknown 5.8+
Vegetated Line (big right-facing inside corner)
Charismatic Mime 5.8
Broken Clown 5.6
(Perez) Highway 5.9
THE CLIMBS RIGHT OF "PEREZ" ARE NOT EASY TO FIGURE
Bucking Bronco Arete 5.8
Raven Groove 5.6
Unknown 5.7
Wasabe Groove 5.8
Raven Ridge 5.6
Cruising the Great Corner 5.7
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 30, 2013
Thanks, Rob. I moved the ones that are on your list. Should we have a main 'Mt. Oscar' heading and then "'Main Cliff' and 'West Wall" sub areas?
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 30, 2013
West Wall is such a misnomer. It's to the east of everything listed here.
By Jamie Cunningham
From: Epsom, New Hampshire
Nov 19, 2013
See Beta Foto Topo and match descriptions below.

1. Crescent 5.7
This nice 5.7 starts at the obvious right facing flake and crack start (defines boundary between two walls) then trends up and left and finishes on slabs above and out of sight. There is a bolted direct finish to this climb as well called Doh! (think Homer Simpson).
FA: Joe and Judy Perez

Variation 1a: Direct Finish 5.11a
FA: Jon Sykes &

2. ___?_______ 5.9 75
Climb the center bolted face to two bolt belay.

VARIATION 2a: DIRECT FINISH 5.11b 50
Five bolts to the top.
FA: Jon Sykes & Mike Lee
FFA: Chris Marks & Jon Sykes Spring 2010

3. _____?______ 5.9 110
Slab/face with series of bolts leading to 15 foot crack leading to a white prow. Crack converts to a left facing corner that defines the left side of the prow.

4. Ben Zen Send 5.8 100
Start at left facing flake that leads to a left ascending diagonal crack. Traverse 10 on this crack and climb face above that links three intermittent crescent cracks to the top. Can seep after rainy days.
FA: Ben Mirkin & Jon Sykes Spring 2009

5. Moose Spirit 5.10- 120
Right facing flake (to right of Ben Zen Send). Climb flake through overlap to bolt. Climb straight up to 25 exit crack.
History: Jon Sykes put in the bolts believing that he was doing the original ascent. Ben Savage and Bill Kieler claimed an earlier ascent.
ACB: Ben Savage & Bill Kieler
By Robert Hall
Jul 8, 2014
Was in here 7-6-14 and noted many, if not all, of the older 3/8" bolts have been replaced with new 3/8" S.S. bolts on many of the climbs. (but, as far as I could tell no additional bolts were added to pre-existing routes) Someone has put "mucho-$'s" and time in making this cliff a much safer place.
See the NEClimbs website for more detailed info on this cliff and its routes.