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Mount Magazine State Park

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mount Magazine State Park 


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Location: 35.1639, -93.6487 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,953
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 20, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Sign at the trailhead from the parking lot.

Description 

Arkansas crag. Lots of sport and trad ranging from 5.6 to 5.12+. 90+ developed routes. Tallest routes top out at 80'. Many can be top roped. Camping is available with water and electricity hookups for $14 a night. Primitive sites are not available. A new lodge is also open if you want to stay in a hotel room.


Getting There 

Near Paris Arkansas. Go to the top of Mount Magazine on the South Side. There is a visitor center that you need to register at before climbing. They should be able to give you very specific directions. Park at the Hang Glider Launch Site. Walk west untill you see a sign that marks the climbers trail. Follow this until you find a good tree to rap over the edge down the wall.


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Magazine State Park:
Junior Achievement   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Crag Central
Cruise Control   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 45'   Crag Central
Right to Flight/ The Nose   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Crag Central
Browse More Classics in Mount Magazine State Park

Featured Route For Mount Magazine State Park
Cruise Control- the tree that used to provide the exit hand hold ripped out in the last ice storm.

Cruise Control 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  AR : Mount Magazine State Park : Crag Central
Climbs obvious right leaning crack that gets steeper right below the ledge. Everyone climbs this baby. There is even a cam stuck way down in the flake on the lower part of the climb waiting for someone to free it-be my guest!...[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

Comments on Mount Magazine State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By C. Archibald
Dec 30, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

There are TONS of down trees all over the trail from the last ice storm. The state park might clean it up? Next time I climb here I will bring leather gloves to try and toss some of the brush and thorns off the trail.

By Wayne Monnett
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 7, 2011

Passed through the area coming from CO and loved the rock. Didn't have time to bust out most of the area but there is a BUNCH of new routes someone has bolted up, real new real nice, and if anyone local to the are has time it would be awesome to see a little bit more info of the are come up

By Curly Zach
Nov 4, 2012

We passed through this area on the way back (sorta) to DFW from Sam's Throne. We had a great short time here and climbed Junior Achievement and Cruise Control. Here is the beta: The rock climber's trail sign in the lodge parking lot APPEARS TO POINT TO AN ABOVE CRAG TRAIL THAT DEAD ENDS! An arrow would be nice on the sign. The trail actually is to the right of the sign and descends a staircase like feature that is very hard to see from ground level. The guidebook doesn't mention this. We ended up with an epic approach, consisting of 2 tree rappels, one of which over a ledge.