Mount Magazine, Arkansas

Looking for beta on Mt. Magazine. Wondering how maintained it has been for sport and if you have to rap to it or if there is a trail.... taking a couple of kids so would like the info on it before hand. Thanks so much!
Kim

ellmer wrote:Looking for beta on Mt. Magazine. Wondering how maintained it has been for sport and if you have to rap to it or if there is a trail

Been a couple of years for me, but, I seem to recall that we walked up a trail (left as you're looking out over the rim).

Not sure about the "sport" question. We did only traditional type routes there. Didn't see much in the way of "sport" but weren't looking for it either. Anchors we did use were in good nick.

Cheers.

THanks Brian from SLC... Moved from SLC a year ago to Texas... miss it! *sniff sniff* Did you notice if the anchors could be used for top roping if need be... I know it has been awhile. Sorry!:)

ellmer wrote:Did you notice if the anchors could be used for top roping if need be... I know it has been awhile.

Seemed so, especially with a sling or two.

Really enjoyed the climbing. Shame about the development, but, as long as they still allow access...

Didn't much care for the town of Paris.

Have fun!

Thanks Brian... much appreciated!:)

The good part about Dallas is that you can climb rock year round. You just have to be a road warrior. It's been a long time like ten years since I've been to Mt Mag. The walk down is no problem but I remember some manky gear. I imagine some have been replaced but these guys would know:

texasmountaineers.org/crags…

Email them with any questions you have or contact them by phone and ask for someone who has been there recently.

From their website:
....park at the west end (the right end as you look out over the clifftop). Walk west out of the parking lot on the path, loosely following the power line right-of-way to a cedar thicket at the head of a gully and another power line right-of-way that leads downhill to the left. Turn down this gully and follow the contour of the cliff to the left. The routes begin approximately 50 yards from the gully, along the base of the cliff.

Club Trips
At least once a year, usually over either the Memorial Day or Labor Day weekend (see trip schedule).

Types of Climbing
Primarily toproping and lead climbing. Mt. Magazine features a good variety of trad leads and bolted routes, and even boasts one (unpopular) route put up by Todd Skinner. The majority of the climbs fall into the 5.7 to 5.11+ range, with a few 5.5s and 5.6s on the low end and some hefty 5.12+s on the high end to make things interesting for everyone. The length of most routes is between 30 and 90 feet, so almost everything at Magazine can be toproped.
NOTE: Some topropes can be set up using anchor bolts at the tops of the routes; however, it is not unusual for a route using natural anchors to require up to 30 foot loops of webbing.

Thanks J C... will check it out!