Here is a photo of the whole cliff as seen driving...
Description
South Facing, Secluded with Reasonable to Great rock Quality.
Getting There
Drive North on route 112 from Lincoln. Park at a wide pull off near a Forest Service sign that says ‘No camping or fires except at campgrounds’. This is located just downhill from where the road comes closest to the rock. Walk through the small clearing and look for an opening by a large rock. Go through the 'enchanted forest' until you see double ribbons on a couple of trees. Follow ribbons right on a faint trail to the base of the wall. Allow about 30 minutes from the road.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Huntington:
Pitch 1: Scramble up the low angle slab til beneath a steeper bulge. A couple bolts and a small cam lead over bulge (crux, 5.9). Continue past a couple more bolts to a stance and two bolt anchor. 5.9 170' Variation - Clip the first two bolts of the regular first pitch, then go left to a flake. Continue up on easy slab to a two bolt anchor left of bushes. Going this way avoids the crux bulge. 5.6 170'Pitch 2: Easy slab climbing leads up past a couple bolts. Below bushes, head up and right past a ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
I climbed up here about 2 years ago or so and there was another good route that went at 10d and an undfinshed route farther to the left side (west) that was solid 5.10 and looked like it mellowed afterwards. Any clues folks......
Who determines classics? I can't believe that a couple of X and R rated obscure routes that no one does are classics and Southern Migration (arguably the best route on the cliff) is not.
There is some new route development going on to the left of Once is Enough at the bottom of the cliff. There was a line of bolts with some webbing hanging when I was there last year.
Brian, Mountain Project general consensus is what determines the quality of the route. After climbing a route, anyone is entitled to vote, and the overall average is what is shown. As far as adventure climbing goes, this cliff is prime. It has a nice approach which through the super effort of the trail makers is now a very enjoyable jaunt through the woods instead of a wicked bushwhack through short dense pines. The pitches are short, but not straight forward and sometimes require a bit of meandering about making for some interesting route-finding. As far as ambience goes, climbing here at peak foliage gives a beautiful perspective of the central mountain region of NH. It may not have any classics as far as modern standard may entitle, but the cliff's uniqueness grants it a special place in NH climbing history even if it is one of the more newly developed features. I give Southern Migration 3 stars. Were someone to look at the mountain and aim for the money route, this is probably the one.
I agree that Mt Huntington is a great place to climb. I've climbed most of the routes there. Some a few times. Southern Migration, Perennial and even Once is Enough are fun and worth doing. My point is that the MP database assigned "named" and "no name" as "classics." According to MP no one seems to climb these routes and according to the description "no name" has "no pro for the first two pitches" and the "unamed" descent is "ridiculously dangerous." They don't sound like they deserve classic status to me. I think it is a problem with how MP handles routes that have only one person who comments on them which is the person who input the route. Of course the FA may think his route is great but if no one else comments it can get as many stars as he wants despite its actual quality. A consensus of one is not a consensus.
Ok so I've climbed both perennial and southern migration (and all variations) but can't seem to find once is enough. I bushwhacked through the woods fom the bottom of perennial (left and up). I found orange markers but the approach was terrible and retreated for lack of tree trimming equipment. Can anyone give me some beta on how to get to once is enough, or any other routes that might already be established?
Both routes are great and definitely worth doing. I'd say 2-3 stars easy.
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