South Facing, Secluded with Reasonable to Great rock Quality.
Drive East on route 112 from Lincoln. Park at a wide pull off near a Forest Service sign that says ‘No camping or fires except at campgrounds’. This is located just downhill from where the road comes closest to the rock. Walk through the small clearing and look for an opening by a large rock. Go through the 'enchanted forest' until you see double ribbons on a couple of trees. Follow ribbons right on a faint trail to the base of the wall. Allow about 30 minutes from the road.
Scramble up and right for 100’ to a ledge with a Piton belay. Pitch 1: Follow the line of bolts up and over a steep bulge to a clean slab above. (5.9) 80’. 7 bolts. Pitch 2: Climb up a smooth slab for 100’ heading for a left facing corner. Climb to the right of the corner and over three overlaps to a tree belay up and left. (5.7) 160’. 4 bolts, 2 pins and small cams. Pitch 3: Face climb up the shallow right facing corner to a rest then climb a slab to the left up to a bolt. Clip two more bolts u...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
I climbed up here about 2 years ago or so and there was another good route that went at 10d and an undfinshed route farther to the left side (west) that was solid 5.10 and looked like it mellowed afterwards. Any clues folks......
Brian, Mountain Project general consensus is what determines the quality of the route. After climbing a route, anyone is entitled to vote, and the overall average is what is shown. As far as adventure climbing goes, this cliff is prime. It has a nice approach which through the super effort of the trail makers is now a very enjoyable jaunt through the woods instead of a wicked bushwhack through short dense pines. The pitches are short, but not straight forward and sometimes require a bit of meandering about making for some interesting route-finding. As far as ambience goes, climbing here at peak foliage gives a beautiful perspective of the central mountain region of NH. It may not have any classics as far as modern standard may entitle, but the cliff's uniqueness grants it a special place in NH climbing history even if it is one of the more newly developed features. I give Southern Migration 3 stars. Were someone to look at the mountain and aim for the money route, this is probably the one.
I agree that Mt Huntington is a great place to climb. I've climbed most of the routes there. Some a few times. Southern Migration, Perennial and even Once is Enough are fun and worth doing. My point is that the MP database assigned "named" and "no name" as "classics." According to MP no one seems to climb these routes and according to the description "no name" has "no pro for the first two pitches" and the "unamed" descent is "ridiculously dangerous." They don't sound like they deserve classic status to me. I think it is a problem with how MP handles routes that have only one person who comments on them which is the person who input the route. Of course the FA may think his route is great but if no one else comments it can get as many stars as he wants despite its actual quality. A consensus of one is not a consensus.
Ok so I've climbed both perennial and southern migration (and all variations) but can't seem to find once is enough. I bushwhacked through the woods fom the bottom of perennial (left and up). I found orange markers but the approach was terrible and retreated for lack of tree trimming equipment. Can anyone give me some beta on how to get to once is enough, or any other routes that might already be established?
Both routes are great and definitely worth doing. I'd say 2-3 stars easy.
The routes I submitted here are for historical reference and quality mysterious. My judgment isn't off. I do agree the routes not done should not be classics. When it comes to king of the hill, all the big hills on Huntington got climbed by the mid 1980's and the now traveled lines intersect with these older routes, some before I explored the ledges obviously. I didn't name any climbs here then.
Once is Enough (OIE) isn't anywhere near Perennial and Southern Migration. You have to split off the trail to the left a considerable way before you get to the base of those routes. It is actually a shorter approach. You can't see the first bolt on OIE until you climb up and around a corner. The route is fun except it is a bit convoluted in that you are climbing mostly 5.7 until you get to a headwall with one 5.10d move followed by a bit of 5.9. It is out of character with the rest of the route. The route is also controversial in that the critical hold at the crux was chipped out with a rock drill. There was a lengthy discussion about it on NE Climbs. The route description on NE Climbs is probably the best way to find it. There is also some route development going on to the left of OIE. The last time I was up there a couple of years ago there wasn't anything that looked finished.
>>Ok so I've climbed both perennial and southern migration (and all variations) but can't seem to find once is enough. I bushwhacked through the woods fom the bottom of perennial (left and up). I found orange markers but the approach was terrible and retreated for lack of tree trimming equipment. Can anyone give me some beta on how to get to once is enough, or any other routes that might already be established?
Unnamed is a very committing climb and a climber can be killed doing this route with a rope. The approach too its base is horrendous, steep, loose footing and exhausting. I went across the tongue at the base a traversed up hill. It is giant snow filled shoot in the winter to the base and from a ice climbing viewpoint start of Unnamed might be a better done in winter. Horrendous bushwhack to the base of it, wet summer gully's below the cliff starts left of it. Nice rope length buttress and diagonal up right top of shallow v groove vortex to the corner left facing. beginning onto another section too the cliff far below and up left of here, a bolted climb. In this section the bolted route is nearby the ice climbing area. High quality rock climb but not a long pitch. In between nice one long pitch massive buttress. Other bolted possibilities. Approach is cumbersome anywhere at the base. Painting a line to unnamed route, the mid section location okay and not accurate to footsteps taken because after goat path upper slab is wide to 'Southern Migration' Part and finish foot step line accurate.
I first ascended this ledge in 1981 and it poured on the second pitch of the left side of the tongue. I was on the lead. Got through it and safe back to the ground. A year or two later returned and soloed around to get to know it to bring the right gear. I found the white pitons, earlier climbers. White pitons were way off the deck and nailing a pin so far off from the ground has elation and relief being safe again for me. The pin dudes were capable climbers and could have gone many ways up to finishes. Its very isolated and the approach is long. Some of us climbers didn't tell much about our outings to Huntington. Its become a personally developed mountain. The bolted routes and trad alike were personally developed. Visitors can be unsure of what name or if its been done before while climbing it. Personal development happens here as soon as a climber gets committed to climbing the highways.