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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mount Gretna 


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Lat, Long: 40.2373, -76.4558 Map
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Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Greg Sudlow on Apr 28, 2010

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86° | 66°
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The Wave original finish (move left to arete) V2. ...

Description 

Mount Gretna offers excellent bouldering inside Governor Dick’s Nature Preserve. Composed of groups of diabase boulders strewn throughout a dense forest, the area can be tricky to navigate without a guide or guidebook but once mastered it takes just minutes to reach the nearest boulders. A great place to train and run bouldering circuits. Fall and spring are the best times to visit. Summer greets you with humidity, deer ticks, flies and dense underbrush.

Check the Gretna Bouldering Committe on Facebook for the latest.


Getting There 

From the PA Turnpike take Exit 266 (Lebanon/Lancaster) and turn Right after toll booths onto PA 72 (Lebanon Road). Travel approximately 2 miles then turn Right onto Cider Press Road. Continue to Stop sign and turn Right onto Pinch Road. Follow Pinch Road into nature preserve and park at Clarence Schock education center on Right just after State Game Lands sign.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Gretna:
Homefries    V0     Boulder, 10 feet   Colflesh Area
Pancakes   V0     Boulder, 15 feet   Colflesh Area
Posion Ivy   V0     Boulder, 20 feet   Colflesh Area
Vigilante (aka Warm-up Crack)   V1     Boulder, 20 feet   Prow Area
Talking to Myself   V1     Boulder, 15 feet   Shamoo Area
Havit    V2     Boulder, 10 feet   Colflesh Area
Jenn Savage   V2     Boulder, 10 feet   Colflesh Area
Left Bookend    V3     Boulder, 15 feet   Smiley Area
Decepticon    V3     Boulder, 15 feet   Shamoo Area
Help Meat   V3     Boulder, 10 feet   Shamoo Area
Porcelain   V3+     Boulder, 15 feet   Upper Matrix
IT   V4     Boulder, 12 feet   Prow Area
Colflesh Direct   V4     Boulder, 15 feet   Colflesh Area
Smiley Face    V4     Boulder, 15 feet   Smiley Area
Astroboy   V4     Boulder, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Prow Area
Fabulous   V4     Boulder, 12 feet   45 Area
Shamoo   V5     Boulder, 15 feet   Shamoo Area
Needle to the Vein   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   Upper Matrix
Year of the Dragon   V6     Boulder, 8 feet   Upper Matrix
Trickle in Time   V8     Boulder, 10 feet   The Highball
Browse More Classics in Mount Gretna

Featured Route For Mount Gretna
Early ascent

Trickle in Time V8  PA : Mount Gretna : The Highball
Trickle in Time is Chet Gross' first masterpiece and probably the most revered problem in all of Mt. Gretna. It climbs the subtle sloping lip of a steep roof and in true diabase style; surprisingly finicky and technical despite the severe overhang. A testament to Chet's ability to envision problems from seemingly unclimbable features. Start sitting on the rail. Heel hook and head for the triangle shaped hold, which is more of a feature than a hold, that you will utilize for both ha...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA


Photos of Mount Gretna Slideshow Add Photo
Mount Gretna's diabase texture...mmm. delicious. <a href='http://danallardphoto.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >danallardphoto.com</a>

Mount Gretna's diabase texture...mmm. delicious. d...


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By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 23, 2011

Due to the Governor Dick Preserve being surrounded by State Game Lands, huge herds of deer are frequently seen in the area, where they are protected from hunting. I contracted Lyme disease in 2001 after picking up a deer tick after a day of climbing here. I also know of at least two other people who suffered it that same year or the next, so check yourself after every visit.