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Mount Gimli  


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Lat, Long: 49.7655, -117.6478 Map
Page Views: 2,688. Good page?   
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 28, 2010

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Alpenglow on Gimli at sundown. The south ridge is ...

THE DRIVE
Use your standard navigation method to get to Slocan City, British Colombia. One kilometer south of Slocan, turn west off Highway 6 onto the "Gravel Pit Road". Please check out the map in the photo section.

The Gravel pit road joins the Little Slocan Forest Service Road. From Highway 6, follow it for 7.5 miles to the sign that marks the turn for the Valhalla Park Gimili/Mulvey Trail. Turn right to head up the Bannock Burn Road.

The road up Bannock Burn is passable my most cars, but rough. One guide report stated that: "4wd is useful" (early season). 7.3 miles to the trail-head from the Little Slocan trunk road. Yield to logging traffic at all times!

THE HIKE
Mount Gimli is visible from the traihead with the Southeast Ridge prominent. There is a maintained path up to the base of Mt Gimli. I estimate hiking distance to be 3 miles with an elevation gain of about 2,200 feet.

The trail does not actually tag the base of the Southeast Ridge. Just below the prow, it turns left and traverses meadows under Gimli's west face. Finally it climbs worse talus up to the Niselheim-Gimli Col.

The sunny meadow below the 1,000 foot west face is called the Beach. West Kootenay Rock has photos and descriptions for most of Gimli's west face routes, but not all. Searching the web can yield some very interesting results.


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The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Gimli :
South Ridge   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Mount Gimli

Featured Route For Mount Gimli
South Ridge, First Pitch <br />Photo by Peter Rowat <br />Family Trip..., CAJ, 1974 <br /> <br />According to Peter Rowat's report this is Peter Koedt leading the "magnificent jam crack."   A storm ended the attempt after this pitch.  Peter K returned later that summer. <br /> <br />(Nikon COOLPIX L22 studio close-up of CAJ print)

South Ridge 5.8  International : Canada : ... : Mount Gimli
HISTORY In 1974, a Kamloops expedition choppered in with three children, a sitter, and enough friends to climb everything worth climbing. This route was attempted, and all the members listed above did the first two pitches before weather forced a retreat. That september Peter Rowat and Peter Koedt returned to finish the ridge. I hear Southeast Ridge getting the most name usage, but the reported name was South Face in the Canadian Alpine Journal (1974). Peter Rowat and Co made the fir...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Mount Gimli Slideshow Add Photo
GIMLI, WEST FACE <br /> <br />- from the col to Mulvey Basin <br />- trail visible under wall <br />

GIMLI, WEST FACE

- from the col to Mulvey Basin
-...


GIMLI, WEST FACE, RIGHT <br /> <br />Anyone got beta?  <br /> <br />

BETA PHOTO: GIMLI, WEST FACE, RIGHT

Anyone got beta?



RIGHT SIDE, WEST FACE

RIGHT SIDE, WEST FACE

GIMLI, WEST FACE, LEFT  <br /> <br />

GIMLI, WEST FACE, LEFT



GIMLI FROM TRAILHEAD <br /> <br />- Southeast Ridge highlighted by sun shadow line

GIMLI FROM TRAILHEAD

- Southeast Ridge highlighte...


GIMLI TRAILHEAD MAP <br /> <br />scale  1 : 70,000 <br /> <br />The word Slocan on the map is one letter shy of a klick (km). <br /> <br />Contour Interval 100 feet

BETA PHOTO: GIMLI TRAILHEAD MAP

scale 1 : 70,000

The word S...


GIMLI AND PARKING LOT

BETA PHOTO: GIMLI AND PARKING LOT

WEST FACE <br />The crack may be Lusting After Women.  The face and flake/cracks just left are Another Dimension. <br />

BETA PHOTO: WEST FACE
The crack may be Lusting After Women. T...


WEST FACE LEFT <br />Slave to Gravity (5.12a) is right of the overhung Space Buttress (5.12d). <br />

BETA PHOTO: WEST FACE LEFT
Slave to Gravity (5.12a) is right o...


GIMLI, WEST FACE & NE BUTTRESS <br /> <br />The Northeast Buttress is the left edge of the white wall.  The rock is white and lichen-less because it overhangs.  Space Buttress and Slave to Gravity climb the right side of the wall.

BETA PHOTO: GIMLI, WEST FACE & NE BUTTRESS

The Northeast Butt...


Red: Lusting after Women, 5.10d <br />Black: South Face, 5.11 <br />Purple: Slave to Gravity, 5.12a <br />Yellow: Southwest Face Direct, 5.10b <br />Green: South FAce Dihedral

BETA PHOTO: Red: Lusting after Women, 5.10d
Black: South Face,...