MT GIMLI ROUTE SUMMARY
From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep class III downclimbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the bivouac (Green).
The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)
I have observed both mountain goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).
7 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Gimli :
South Ridge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'
Rumble in the Jungle 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'
Dark Side of the Moon 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 720'
Another Dimension 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'
Sailor Jerry 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'
Slave to Gravity 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'
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