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Mount Erie

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Mount Erie  


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Elevation: 1,300'
Location: 48.4499, -122.6202 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eliza Penick on Apr 23, 2009
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Looking at Mt. Erie from the west south west.

Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>

Description 

  • *Most of the description is taken from a local guide book--see below for details**
Mount Erie is actually within city limits, located just south of Anacortes. Features some 30 miles of hiking trails, as well as popular teenage party sites & exceptional views of the Olympics and Puget Sound. Though it is a mountain there are no really large expanses of rock, but instead short cliffs & crags hidden in the steep madrona, fir & hemlock forests on the flanks of the mountain. For decades a virtual backwater of the Washington climbing experience, it now seems perched on the edge of a renaissance as the growing number of modern climbs become more widely known (this visitor went on a weekday in April & was alone on the mountain).
Three main features: Powerline Wall, The Snag Buttress & Summit Wall.
Climbing type: sport, moderate trad routes, & a few mixed routes (good opportunities for top rope also)
Gear: small rack of gear to 3 inches & quickdraws. Most routes can be descended with a single 50-meter rope.
Rock type: diorite, highly textured & featured, excellent to climb on but few continuous cracks & cliffs of any significant size.
Weather: located in the rain shadow of the Olympics, so offers the potential for dry climbing year round. March to October best, always bring layers.
Camping: no camping on Mount Erie, but several campgrounds nearby.
Further Reference: Weekend Rock (WA) by David Whitelaw & Climbing Mount Erie by Dallas Kloke.

Getting There 

Drive time from Seattle: 1.5 hours
Approach times: 5-30 minutes
Getting there: Exit I-5 at Burlington and take SR 20 west for about 15 minutes. Make left at obvious stoplight & (still on SR 20) head out towards Deception Pass (worth seeing on its own). In a few miles reach a fork & trend right on Campbell Lake Road. Mount Erie will be visible on the right. In a few more miles the Mount Erie Grocery (stop for beer or Kloke's guide book) marks the right-hand turn onto Heart Lake Road, & in one more mile the state road to the top will branch off to the right. Several miles up the winding road leads to the summit parking areas.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

80 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',11],['5.8',9],['5.9',8],['5.10',14],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',18],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Erie:
The Open Book   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Summit Wall
October Sky   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Pigeon Stool Wall
Undercover   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Main Wall
Zig Zag   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Wall
Tindall's Terror   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Powerline Wall West
Treeshadow   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Powerline Wall West
False Impressions   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Powerline Wall West
Jack of Diamonds   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Summit Wall
Springboard   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Main Wall
Lasting Impressions   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   Powerline Wall West
Gator   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Orange Wall
Intimidator   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Powerline Wall West
Terminator   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Powerline Wall West
Lethal Weapon   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Powerline Wall West
Frogs in Space   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Mount Erie

Featured Route For Mount Erie
Frogs in Space

Frogs in Space 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Main Wall
This is a very fun climb up a steep face with a broken crack system. The climb has a great combination of balance, crimping, crack technique, and technical footwork. The crux seems to be at the third bolt where a short overhanging block must be overcome. The climbing is sustained and a bit pumpy. A combination of bolts and gear provide protection. Fortunately, the bolts protect the hardest moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Mount Erie Add Comment
Show which comments
By cody brua
Dec 22, 2010
hi my name is Cody Brua i am moving to Mt Vernon WA on January 1 and i don't know any one who climbs up their so if any wants or needs a new climbing partner i am free ever weekend
By Pete Spri
Sep 19, 2011
Dallas Kloke is perhaps the person most reponsible for establishing, developing, and caring for Mt. Erie. The amount of work creating real trails (instead of social trails everywhere), scrubbing moss off of routes, clearing dead debris and branches away, taking fledgling climbers under his wing, and perhaps most importantly chronicling all of the routes has helped Mt. Erie become all that it is for those of us who have climbed there.

Dallas passed away while decending 4th class (but exposed) rock in the North Cascades when a hold broke and he fell to his death in September of 2010. He was a man of deep faith in God and Jesus Christ, and he was my climbing mentor for about the first 6 years that I climbed. Dallas, you are missed but your kindness, devotion, and love for Mt. Erie will not be forgotten.
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 8, 2012
RIP Dallas. Thanks for all the hard work in the name of climbing.
By Jsthompson
Nov 11, 2012
A revised edition of Dallak Kloke's Mt. Erie Guidebook is in the works! If you have any questions, route beta or photos you'd like to submit, please send them to mterieguidebook@gmail.com
By Jsthompson
Mar 9, 2013
The annual Dallas Kloke Mt. Erie Work Day is coming up on Saturday, April 20. Work projects in the morning and climbing in the afternoon. Photographers will be there to capture great climbing shots for the upcoming 2nd Edition of the Mt. Erie Guidebook.
By Jsthompson
Mar 9, 2013
Visit mterie.com or www.facebook.com/mterieclimbing for the latest news, updates and climbing routes.