Mount Doom is a spectacular pyramid-like crag hidden away in the brush of Castle Rock State Park, northwest of Goat Rock. Although visible from below, via the Saratoga Gap Trail, the difficult approach guarantees some degree of solitude, relative to Goat. The easiest route, "Slab Route", is a long and sporty 5.7 on Mount Doom's expansive west face. An amazing number of anchor bolts allow numerous toprope options on other routes.
From the CRSP parking lot, descend toward Castle Rock falls for about 1/2 mile. Follow signs to Goat Rock and continue for another 1/2 mile. Just a short distance past Goat Rock, turn left toward the scenic overlook. Turn right onto a faint use trail about a hundred feet from the overlook proper. The track improves as you descend steeply through Manzanita and Madrone. After a couple hundred yards, you arrive at the shaded south face of Mount Doom.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Doom:
West Face 5.10b TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Featured Route For Mount Doom
Slab Route 5.7 R CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Mount Doom
Depending on where you start from, this route can be almost 80 feet long. Descend a gnarly climbers' trail along Mount Doom's sunny west face. The ideal belay spot is an obvious series of boulders. From there, the climb is about 70 feet high. The first 20 feet are easy, but unprotected scalloped sandstone slabs, 5.4 or so. Gain a series of classic CRSP pockets and tie off a runner in a cave if you wish. After another 20 feet or so, you reach the "big ledge" of Morris's guidebook. Aim for a sm...[more] Browse More Classics in CA