Top roping Lower Tier, Amazing Face at the Boy Sco...
This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.
Access to the park will cost you up to $7 per car, so heads up.
Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.
Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.
Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map
Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map
On the east face of the Lower Tier, immediately right of the route with two giant holes at the bottom. Very pumpy and unrelenting but no move is harder than about 5.10d. There are cruxy moves at the top and bottom of the climb, and knowing which holds to use is key. Trust your feet and be patient....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
There is soo much potential here if you don't mind finding the good rock among the bad. It's like the ugly cousin of red rocks. If this place gets more developed it will need a guidebook of its own. A fun adventure!