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Moucha 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 2,618
Submitted By: EricD on Jul 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Sheri moving right into the crux on Moucha!

Crawdad Canyon is private property. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great fun route with a small roof that is the crux. There's a finger pocket that's a savior if found. A long reach is helpful to get through this (or faith in your feet).

Location 

Off the pool deck just at the bottom of the ladder. A plaque marks the beginning of the route.

Protection 

8 bolts to sport anchors


Photos of Moucha Slideshow Add Photo
Brian leading Moucha and entering the VERY fun ste...
Brian leading Moucha and entering the VERY fun ste...
Brian right at the crux on Moucha; weird holds wit...
Brian right at the crux on Moucha; weird holds wit...
Sheri Tr'ing Moucha and left below the crux
Sheri Tr'ing Moucha and left below the crux
3/4 the way up Moucha on the steep, fun, and juggy...
3/4 the way up Moucha on the steep, fun, and juggy...
Moucha!
Moucha!

Comments on Moucha Add Comment
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By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 15, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As good as any route at the Fly Trap if not all of Crawdad. Everything you want from stem, slab, crimp, steep, etc!! Unlike other routes here, this one probably does earn it's grade at the balancy middle section of the route where a fall would be somewhat nasty. Have faith in those feet and toes at the crux!!
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Mar 7, 2007

fun route the holds just keep on coming.
By Fett
Apr 4, 2009

There are 2 routes that start at the same place here. The bolted line that splits to the left (the pictures you see people climbing) is not moucha. The name of this route is called A Fly in the Ointment 5.10c/d and has pretty thin moves on a slabby to vertical wall. The bolt line that splits to the right is moucha 5.10b. Moucha starts on the slab then head right to a roof with nice pockets to a lieback section. I had a friend climb Ointment thinking it was moucha because of the pictures online. He did good until he got pumped at the anchors. He missed the clip and took a 20 foot whipper, the fall was clean!
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
May 2, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

It is easy to get confused and bear left following the bolts to fly in the ointment. I could not get through the thin crux section and couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble with a 10b. Then I went back and tried the right side. It is a beautiful climb and in my opinion, one of the best at the canyon.
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Mar 2, 2013

One of the best routes for its grade in the canyon. Don't miss this one. And yes, it veers to the right after the 1st bolt.