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 ADVANCED
Motorboat Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastard's Moan T 
Beginner's Bitch T 
Ben's Dilemma T,TR 
Can Opener T 
Motorboat T,TR 
Navy Route T,TR 
Shocker T 
Unsorted Routes:

Motorboat 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 993
Submitted By: Ky Harkey on Oct 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Motorboat

Description 

This is a beautiful arching crack. Good hand jams to start. The dihedral very quickly forces you into powerful stemming. Fist jams through the middle. The crux is toward the top of the vertical crack when it widens and the dihedral constricts to force you out of it. The flake behind your head is a great spot for your otherwise useless left hand.


Location 

Northwest side of Motorboat Rock. Past Can Opener and Shocker along the trail.


Protection 

TR anchor from the boulder, walk off the same as other Motorboat Routes. Medium to large pieces.



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By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It's been a decade and a half but I remember this route as very strenuous for the grade.

By Superclimber
Feb 6, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Take all the #4s you can find (four is sufficient).