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Motorboat Rock
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Bastard's Moan 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 906
Submitted By: Ky Harkey on Oct 18, 2009
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This is a beautiful arching crack. Good hand jams to start. The dihedral very quickly forces you into powerful stemming. Fist jams through the middle. The crux is toward the top of the vertical crack when it widens and the dihedral constricts to force you out of it. The flake behind your head is a great spot for your otherwise useless left hand.


Northwest side of Motorboat Rock. Past Can Opener and Shocker along the trail.


TR anchor from the boulder, walk off the same as other Motorboat Routes. Medium to large pieces.

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By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

It's been a decade and a half but I remember this route as very strenuous for the grade.

By Superclimber
Feb 6, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Take all the #4s you can find (four is sufficient).