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 ADVANCED
Iron Curtain Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 
Iron Curtain S 
Motley Cruise S 
Mutation S 
One With the Rock S,TR 
Out of Touch S 
Perestroika S 
Pick Pocket S 
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 
Up In a Flash S 

Motley Cruise 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan and Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: 3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise

Description 

This route is just right of the dirty route right of the steep chossy gully. There is a fixed pin hidden in the horizontal.

Climb up nice thin dishes and edges, moving left near the top to reach the anchors atop Mutation. Very clean, good moves, and well bolted.

Protection 

Quickdraws


Photos of Motley Cruise Slideshow Add Photo
Kylie doing some night climbing.
Kylie doing some night climbing.

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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 7, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Five quickdraws plus 2 for the top
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The hidden piton can be backed up with a .75 camalot no problem.
By Lee Gitlin
Jul 3, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yet another in a list of "friction" face climbs at Parleys. You will need to trust your feet on the unlimited footholds. If things seem desperate, just bump up a few baby steps and an acceptable handhold will appear, as if by magic. Stretching on tiptoes to reach for handholds is a recipe for blowing your feet. As my climbing partner reminded me, "nose over toes," is an appropriate axiom here. Motley Cruise is an interesting, meandering route that rates one star, if only for its nifty hand traverse. A short, enjoyable route.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 14, 2006

this climb scared me near the top buldge. Granted I was a beginning climber at the time but I ended up in that chimney and traversing over to the anchors. Not my favorite situation.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The route feels like you should go over to the right and walk up to the bolts at the top, but then you find two bomber hidden little holds and the anchors are no problem.

Like they said, just smear up a few inches at a time if you're stuck, it'll come.
By Tryhard
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 5, 2009

I liked this route more than any of the other slabby routes to the left of "Up in a Flash." I think I got too high on the traverse my second time climbing this, but still managed to clip the next bolt and keep going. I'll definately climb this one again.