Motley Cruise 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Jonathan and Brian Smoot, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Andrew Gram on Apr 4, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: 3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise
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Description This route is just right of the dirty route right of the steep chossy gully. There is a fixed pin hidden in the horizontal. Climb up nice thin dishes and edges, moving left near the top to reach the anchors atop Mutation. Very clean, good moves, and well bolted.
Protection Quickdraws
Kylie doing some night climbing.
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| Comments on Motley Cruise |
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By Nathan Fisher Apr 7, 2004 rating: 5.9
| Five quickdraws plus 2 for the top |
By Nathan Fisher Jul 2, 2004 rating: 5.9
| The hidden piton can be backed up with a .75 camalot no problem. |
By Lee Gitlin Jul 3, 2004 rating: 5.9
| Yet another in a list of "friction" face climbs at Parleys. You will need to trust your feet on the unlimited footholds. If things seem desperate, just bump up a few baby steps and an acceptable handhold will appear, as if by magic. Stretching on tiptoes to reach for handholds is a recipe for blowing your feet. As my climbing partner reminded me, "nose over toes," is an appropriate axiom here. Motley Cruise is an interesting, meandering route that rates one star, if only for its nifty hand traverse. A short, enjoyable route. |
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Aug 14, 2006
| this climb scared me near the top buldge. Granted I was a beginning climber at the time but I ended up in that chimney and traversing over to the anchors. Not my favorite situation. |
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jun 2, 2007 rating: 5.8+
| The route feels like you should go over to the right and walk up to the bolts at the top, but then you find two bomber hidden little holds and the anchors are no problem. Like they said, just smear up a few inches at a time if you're stuck, it'll come. |
By Tryhard From: Sandy, UT Sep 5, 2009
| I liked this route more than any of the other slabby routes to the left of "Up in a Flash." I think I got too high on the traverse my second time climbing this, but still managed to clip the next bolt and keep going. I'll definately climb this one again. |
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