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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
Not sure of the true name for this route (see comments below), but it goes up the middle of the bigger slab. It is identifiable by the scraggly tree at the top of the first pitch.
The first pitch starts directly under this tree, up a black streaked slab for about 30 ft to a sloping ledge covered with vegetation. (a variation would be to traverse in to this ledge from the left). Above this bushy ledge is a short corner directly beneath the tree. At the top of the corner you can exit to the left or right around a block. The left-hand exit is easier, but a little loose. Another variation is to skip the corner altogether and climb up through vegetated terrain further left, past a now replaced bolt. Belay at the tree.
Pitch two steps left off the belay ledge toward a new bolt. The crux are the thin face moves past this bolt, after which the angle eases off. A second bolt comes into view slightly to the right. Past this bolt one can follow various crack systems up to a nice belay ledge underneath a blocky headwall.
I'm guessing that one could add a 3rd or fourth pitch to this route, but we opted to rappel from the spindly tree on this ledge.
The route is left of Bucky Blue
underneath a gnarly tree. A 60 m rappel from the top of the 2nd pitch will barely reach the ground. Unfortunately, a single 60m rope rappel does not quite reach the top of the first pitch. Another option for descent is to traverse east along the large ledge system at the top of the 2nd pitch, and then scramble down the gully at the left side of the slab.
On the topo, this is route A-2 in blue.
Small rack of wires and assorted cams up to 2" is sufficient. Bringing extra webbing to leave at the rappels is a good idea. Both trees have slings/rings on them.
BETA PHOTO: The intimidating start of Pitch 2.
By Karl Kiser
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The route up to the tree is what was once called No Name (at least in the 70s). It went generally up two pitches then right and skirted a wide crack near the top for another two pitches. One would walk off right and down the gully (same as Buckey Blue if no rap off the lower section).
The traverse left, at the start of the 2nd pitch, to the face bolts is Mother's Day and was probably put up by Dick Ingraham.
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
5 days ago
We have done the third pitch: up the head wall on easy-to-use blocky features heading for the larger tree slightly to the right. At that level the angle moderated and climbing became easy. Walking to the right along the ridge line took us to the Bucky Blue rap line.