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 ADVANCED
Motherlode Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Motherlode 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Jake Colella, May 2000
Page Views: 1,000
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.

Description 

A boulder problem start (crux) on thin edges with poor feet is encountered before the first bolt, after which the climbing is no harder than 5.10; one more bolt leads to a ledge. Make some cool stemming moves off the ledge and finish up an arete to anchors.

A little squeezed down low, but the climbing is fairly good and higher the routes on either side diverge. It's possible to combine the lower half of Black Bart with the upper portion of this route to get a fun 5.10 route. You can also combine the lower half of this route with the upper half of Black Bart to get a 5.11 route with two cruxes.

Location 

Up a black streak between Golden Nugget and Black Bart. The first bolt on the route is black and the second bolt is tan, which may help to identify this route.

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchor


Photos of Motherlode Slideshow Add Photo
Motherlode (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Motherlode (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

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By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Sep 7, 2009

The first section is thin below the first bolt, but seems easier to the left (encroaching on Golden Nugget?). Better holds at the second bolt, and a swing move puts you over the edge and in the open book. Solid 5.8 the rest of the way up.
By steple
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Instead of gaining the ledge, you can stay left on the face, getting close to the neighboring route. Then mantle and get to a third bolt. Slightly runout, but more thin flakes to crimp on.
By Ian McG
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Feels like it is contrived if you want it to go anywhere near 11b. If you climb using the holds that follow along just left bolt line it doesn't feel any harder than a mid-10, but then you are likely off route even though the bolts are well within reach.