|Motherlode Rock - East Face
A boulder problem start (crux) on thin edges with poor feet is encountered before the first bolt, after which the climbing is no harder than 5.10; one more bolt leads to a ledge. Make some cool stemming moves off the ledge and finish up an arete to anchors.
A little squeezed down low, but the climbing is fairly good and higher the routes on either side diverge. It's possible to combine the lower half of Black Bart with the upper portion of this route to get a fun 5.10 route. You can also combine the lower half of this route with the upper half of Black Bart to get a 5.11 route with two cruxes.
Up a black streak between Golden Nugget and Black Bart. The first bolt on the route is black and the second bolt is tan, which may help to identify this route.
5 bolts, chain anchor
BETA PHOTO: Motherlode (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
|By Lluis Penalver-Aguila|
Sep 7, 2009
The first section is thin below the first bolt, but seems easier to the left (encroaching on Golden Nugget?). Better holds at the second bolt, and a swing move puts you over the edge and in the open book. Solid 5.8 the rest of the way up.
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Instead of gaining the ledge, you can stay left on the face, getting close to the neighboring route. Then mantle and get to a third bolt. Slightly runout, but more thin flakes to crimp on.