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Motherlode Rock

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Motherlode Rock - East Face 
Motherlode Rock - North Face 
Motherlode Rock - West Face 

Motherlode Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 34.3088, -116.8782 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 80,970
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 29, 2006
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Description 

Bordering the northern edge of the main Pinnacles is this farily long and slender formation with a good variety of routes on almost all of it's sides.

The east face is shorter and slabbier and is home to such fun routes as Shantytown Swing (5.6), Wildrose (5.6), Golden Nugget (5.10a) and Out of Our Mines (5.10d).

The narrow north face features the popular Whiptail (5.9), Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b).

Perhaps the best side of the crag, the taller west face has such gems as Panning For Gold (5.10b), Mighty Quinn (5.10c), Stake Your Claim (5.10d) and Long Arm Of The Law (5.11a).

Getting There 

Most easily approached from the northern parking area by walking east past the Incinerator Wall, at which point the wall comes into view and is obvious. The approach takes about 2-3 minutes and follows a well-defined trail.

Also reached from the vicinity of the Ampitheatre (Claim Jumper Wall, Gunsmoke Wall, Thunderbird Wall) by following any of several trails northeast to reach the formation. Plan on 3-5 minutes for this approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',13],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock:
Psychedelic Sluice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Motherlode Rock - East Face
Whiptail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Fire in the Hole   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Motherlode Rock - East Face
Golden Nugget   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Motherlode Rock - East Face
Lodestone   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Motherlode Rock - East Face
Reach for the Sky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Motherlode Rock - West Face
Short Fuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Panning for Gold   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Motherlode Rock - West Face
Nitroglycerine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Mighty Quinn   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Motherlode Rock - West Face
Good Day for a Hangin'   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock - West Face
Out of Our Mines   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Motherlode Rock - East Face
Stake Your Claim   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Motherlode Rock - West Face
Black Bart   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Motherlode Rock - East Face
Long Arm of The Law   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Motherlode Rock - West Face
Motherlode   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Motherlode Rock - East Face
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock
Chris Miller on the First Ascent of Long Arm Of The Law. June 2000.

Long Arm of The Law 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - West Face
A vertical face leads to a lower angled section below a slightly reachy roof move (crux), and finishes with some enjoyable face moves to the anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Motherlode Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Lizard's Head on the North West corner of Motherload Rock.  Whiptail (5.9) climbs the north (back side in this pic) side and the final move ends with an arm lock in the lizard's mouth to clip the anchors.
Lizard's Head on the North West corner of Motherlo...
Mike Williams on Mighty Quinn (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Mike Williams on Mighty Quinn (5.10c), Holcomb Val...

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