Motherlode Rock - North Face
The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.
The exposed arete of Whiptail
(5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg
(5.10a) and Short Fuse
(5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.
Routes listed from left to right: Powder Keg
(5.10b) Short Fuse
(5.10b) Fun Police
Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
6 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock - North Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock - North Face:
Whiptail 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Powder Keg 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Short Fuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - North Face
Short Fuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA
: San Bernardino Mountains
: ... : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
The first half of this route involves slab climbing past two bolts which leads to a short but gently overhanging headwall where the crux is to be found. A sequential series of moves past the third bolt gain the last bolt and the crux, which involves a strenuous lieback to gain a jug, after the jug a few moves up and over reach the anchors.There's a bit of rope drag on the lip so it's best to rap off as opposed to lowering. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a)...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (ak...
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