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Motherlode Rock - North Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fun Police S 
Nitroglycerine S 
Powder Keg S 
Short Fuse S 
Smackdown S 
Whiptail S 

Motherlode Rock - North Face  


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Elevation: 7,450'
Page Views: 22,076
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
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Description 

The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.

The exposed arete of Whiptail (5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.

Routes listed from left to right:

Powder Keg (5.10a)
Nitroglycerine (5.10b)
Short Fuse (5.10b)
Fun Police (5.6)
Smackdown (5.8)
Whiptail (5.9)

Getting There 

Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock - North Face:
Whiptail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Short Fuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nitroglycerine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - North Face
Obi deciding whether to clip in or backflip.

Whiptail 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's north face is home to this fine route up the striking northwest arete, which from the west looks like the head of a giant lizard.Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Motherlode Rock - North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a)...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (aka Lizard Head), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (ak...
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

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