Motherlode Rock - North Face
The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.
The exposed arete of Whiptail
(5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg
(5.10a) and Short Fuse
(5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.
Routes listed from left to right: Powder Keg
(5.10b) Short Fuse
(5.10b) Fun Police
Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
6 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock - North Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock - North Face:
Whiptail 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Powder Keg 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Short Fuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - North Face
Smackdown 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: San Bernardino Mountains
: ... : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Climb a short vertical face (crux) which quickly slabs out at the second bolt. From here the climb wanders up the slab to a steep finish, which involves handrailing out right along a horizontal crack to a shared anchor with Whiptail. The name comes from a slab-smacking fall, which earned a fractured ankle, by one of the members of the FA party (not me)....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a)...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (ak...
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles