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Motherlode Rock - East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Motherlode Rock - East Face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,500'
Page Views: 14,900
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Motherlode Rock (East Face Left), Holcomb Valley P...

Description 

The east face of Motherlode Rock is fairly long wall with a high concentration of climbs on the left side and only a few routes on the rest of the rock. Climbs here tend to be on the short side but feature excellent rock and protection. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Recommended routes here include Wildrose (5.6), Golden Nugget (5.10a), Lodestone (5.10b) and Out of Our Mines (5.10d).

This area seems to be quite popular with groups of top-ropers, so be courteous as well as patient and enjoy the climbing.

Routes listed from left to right:

Blasting Cap (5.3)
Wildrose (5.6)
Fire in the Hole (5.10a)
Fools Gold (5.6)
Golden Nugget (5.10a)
Motherlode (5.11b)
Black Bart (5.11a)
Psychedelic Sluice (5.6)
Belleville (5.9+ TR)
Shantytown Swing (5.6)
Dust in the Wind (5.4)
Out of Our Mines (5.10d)
Miner Forty-Niner (5.8)


Getting There 

Easily reached from the vicinty of The Ampitheatre (Claim Jumper Wall, Gunsmoke Wall or Thunderbird Wall) by a network of trails or from the northern parking area by another series of trails.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock - East Face:
Psychedelic Sluice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Fire in the Hole   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Golden Nugget   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Lodestone   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Out of Our Mines   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Black Bart   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Motherlode   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - East Face
Lodestone (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Lodestone 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face
This popular link-up combines the lower portion of Black Bart with the upper portion of Motherlode and avoids the hard sections of both those routes.Climb up and left along tricky thin edges past three bolts to a ledge, clip a bolt on the left wall of a shallow dihedral and then stem your way up the short corner to a low-angled arete passing two more bolts to anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Motherlode Rock - East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.
Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.
1. Golden Nugget (5.10a) <br />2. Motherload (5.11b) <br />3. Black Bart (5.11b) <br />4. Psychedelic Sleuce (5.7) <br />5. Shantytown Swing (5.6) <br /> <br />I think this is right, but not 100%. Not all routes listed.  Feel free to add to this!
BETA PHOTO: 1. Golden Nugget (5.10a)
2. Motherload (5.11b)
3. ...
Motherlode Rock (East Face Right), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Motherlode Rock (East Face Right), Holcomb Valley ...
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