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Escape Buttress
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Motherload 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 648
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 15, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: 1 Rock Requiem 5.11c 2 Presidents Day 5.10b 3 No E...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A short, juggy climb up overhanging rock. Start on ledges and juggy sidepulls to the first bolt, then pockets to the second (including a nifty, smooth, white pocket lined with some sort of quartz-like deposit).

After the second bolt comes the crux. You can go right or left of the bolt. Choose wisely.

Location 

Motherload is located near the right side of Escape Buttress. It is the first route left of the evergreen tree which is located at the right side of the wall. Alternatively, it is the ninth route from the left on the main wall.

Protection 

5 bolts and chain anchors.


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Aug 15, 2007

This is in the Ruckman guide as 5.10 (no letter). I thought it was a bit harder than Twist and Shout and a bit easier than Jug for Joy.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 3, 2007

I just noticed that this route is in Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Utah at 5.10b/c. Since I'm sure he's much better at judging ratings than I, I changed this from 5.10a to 5.10b/c.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route, hard pulling, but holds abound. A must do if in the area, short but sweet!