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Mother of Invention 
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Mother of Invention 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,147
Submitted By: Guy H. on Sep 26, 2003
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Sarah Haas high on the route.


This route is around the corner from the fun route "Block Party". The route is sustained at the 5.10 level and has some fun moves near the top as the face holds disappear. There some fun moves working the arete, until you move back to the right to clip the last bolt and the anchor. Some of the bolts are in poor positions, since the biners would land on small ledges during a fall.


6-7 bolts.

Photos of Mother of Invention Slideshow Add Photo
Sarah above the second bolt.
Sarah above the second bolt.
Another Sarah shot.
Another Sarah shot.
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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 13, 2004

A tall, blond, and proud line. Steep but with ledges. A tricky start (there's a lock in there somewhere, and a good undercling) gets you to the first ledge. Steep and continuous from there: work left on good holds, clipping bolts out right and using the arete when needed. Crux move for me was between the last two bolts - long reach right to a sloped hold, pull off of that to a pinch on the arete. Mind the feet!

By Edward Jenner
Mar 13, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Very nice, fun route. Continuous, steep and the 'ledges' don't offer full rests. 10c seemed about right compared to John Cruser. I thought the bolt placements were good too.

This and John Curser are worth the hike alone, especially if you are on the way to Menses to climb 10's.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Good route. A bit hard to read, in my opinion.

By Cam Reade
Mar 22, 2008

Sustained 5.10 climb. Keep your thinking cap on and don't get suckered to the right. As your standing on a thin ledge half way up, look for a bomber side pull just left of the arete. If you find it, the rest of the hold will fall into place.

By Austin Cooner
May 19, 2013

Between the frustrating start, the huge pile of poop on the first ledge, and the ridiculous reach to the loose bolt after said ledge, I downclimbed and said no thank you.