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Trailhead Wall
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Brother Toad S 
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Otis S 
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Temporary Change of Season T,S 
Trooper Traverse T 

Mother Lode 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 2,662
Submitted By: Gordo Bro on Sep 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Scramble up easy ramps/ledges to cleft marking start of Trooper Traverse. This is the eye-attracting, left-facing dihedral/crack system on the right side of the face.

P1. Face climb straight up with sparse protection (small nuts, Aliens) mixed with 3 bolts. 2nd bolt protects the traversing crux. Finish to ledge from last bolt going either right (harder) or left. 2-bolt belay anchor with chains.

P2. Layback/jam flake to ledge midway with bolt. Move up into left-angling crack with good jams and cam placements (up to #4 Friend), turn the corner and up to a bolt, then traverse face holds back right and up to a large sloping ledge with 3-bolt belay (~120 feet).

P3. Clip multiple bolts angling left to crux layback/sidepull on small holds well-protected by bolt, then continue up and back right to ledge with tree.

Descent: One-rope rap to 2nd-pitch belay ledge. Two-rope rap to start of route. Scramble to ground.


Location 

This is located up and right from the trailhead. It starts to the right of Trooper Traverse.


Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. Longs slings are useful.



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By Rob Dillon
Sep 10, 2006

2 raps with a 70 but you gotta use the 1-bolt+chain link anchor on the P2 'ledge with a bolt'. One of these days we'll stick another one in there...

By GringoD
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I've got to go back and finish this climb. We only climbed to the "ledge-with-a-bolt" after getting rained on. I thought the bolts on the 1st pitch were poorly placed. The 1st one was too low and the 2nd one was just out of reach. In any case, I decided to head left just under bolt #2 toward the Trooper Traverse line. Since people were on the TT, I climbed back right after mantling the bushy ledge that is even w/ the 1st belay station. I was quite amused @ the crappy bolt and hanger just down and to the right of the 2-bolt/chain belay station. There's a big piece of loose-sounding and somewhat detached-looking rock about 40' up the 2nd pitch. It's tempting to jam the hell out of the sides of it. I tip-toed around it.

By chris berdoulay
Jul 4, 2010

First pitch was sort of sketchy the way the bolts were placed. I think next time it would be worth it to just avoid it by doing the first pitch or two of Trooper Traverse, and traverse right to the base of the left-facing dihedral. Bolts were poorly placed with big falls onto slab, not great supplemental pro. Second pitch was certainly classic, 10a max, maybe easier w/ good pro. Rack of singles will easily get you through. I was using Camalots and brought nothing bigger than a number 3 which I didn't use. Actualy I used the smaller blue and gray as well as small TCUs and nuts more than anything. I made the mistake of breaking up the second pitch by creating an anchor at a bolt with a chain. Don't do that, keep going left up the layback flake. Third pitch didn't seem to get done often, lots of lichen, not terribly interesting. The second pitch is about as good as it gets, cool moves, great pro, incredible setting. Enjoy!

By chris berdoulay
Jul 7, 2010

Looks like I did the last pitch of Pirate Mode instead of Mother Lode. From the second belay after the left-facing corner on Mother Lode, there are two bolt lines continuing up. The one going straight up with the newer bolts is, I guess, Pirate Mode. This is the one we did which may explain the lichen. The bolt line going up and left is Mother Lode. I'll have to go back and finish that.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2010

This route was a lot of fun! As far as routefinding goes, when there are bolts everywhere, follow the old rings and not the new shiny hangers to stay on route.

Clayton

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 27, 2011

Cold shuts let you know you are on the right route as of 6/27/2011. Fun climb. Crux on first pitch is devious. Second pitch rocks, and the third pitch is funky but interesting.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2011

The second pitch is fantastic. For those comfortable at the grade, singles to #3 Camalot and stoppers should be plenty of gear to do the route.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

For those who are interested, we were able to rap with a single 70m. First rap down to the new anchors (The Other Road) down and left of the anchors at the top of Motherlode 2nd pitch. From there, straight down to top of first pitch of Trooper Traverse anchor. And one rap from there to the ground.