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The Grendel
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Mother Grendel 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sharon Kloepfer, Mark Rolofson & Kirk Miller, 2006
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Jeffeos on Aug 1, 2011
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Doug is up near the 13th bolt here. If you find t...
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Description 

A 60 meter rope is just long enough; I was lowered all the way to the ground with all of the bolts still clipped.

You will need a long sling to negotiate rope drag over the roof between the 6th & 7th bolt!!

Climb up the face past two bolts & move left onto a ledge. Step right & climb a short vertical arete, past the 3rd bolt, to a steep slab that ends on a huge sloping ledge. Clip the 6th bolt & ascend a steep face along a short, right-facing corner.

Clip the 7th bolt with a long sling & clip out of the 6th bolt.

Gain a small ledge on the left. The crux pulls over a small overlap, past the 8th bolt, onto a steep face. Continue up this beautiful long face with nice hold to a ledge & the 14th bolt below a small roof. Pull over the roof on the right. Move up and left to the anchor.


Location 

Start on a narrow face between two bushy corners the next route right of Exit Stage Right (40' right of ESR).


Protection 

15 draws to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By stickit
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

The last move is 5.10.