A 60 meter rope is just long enough; I was lowered all the way to the ground with all of the bolts still clipped.
You will need a long sling to negotiate rope drag over the roof between the 6th & 7th bolt!!
Climb up the face past two bolts & move left onto a ledge. Step right & climb a short vertical arete, past the 3rd bolt, to a steep slab that ends on a huge sloping ledge. Clip the 6th bolt & ascend a steep face along a short, right-facing corner.
Clip the 7th bolt with a long sling & clip out of the 6th bolt.
Gain a small ledge on the left. The crux pulls over a small overlap, past the 8th bolt, onto a steep face. Continue up this beautiful long face with nice hold to a ledge & the 14th bolt below a small roof. Pull over the roof on the right. Move up and left to the anchor.
Start on a narrow face between two bushy corners the next route right of Exit Stage Right (40' right of ESR).
15 draws to a 2 bolt anchor.
|Comments on Mother Grendel
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
The last move is 5.10.