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 ADVANCED
Bird-Foot Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Dream Roof T 
Hard Nose TR 
Left Turkey Foot T,TR 
Little Bird TR 
Mother and Apple Pie TR 
Pay Off T,TR 
Procto Pete and the Endos TR 
Right Turkey Foot T,TR 
Sick Vulture TR 
Squeeze Play T,TR 

Mother and Apple Pie 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Oct 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Stewart straight up the face, on Mother and Apple ...

Description 

Use the crack as much as possible, liebacking to the left. Ignore the guidebook and use the corner where it feels natural to grab it.


Location 

Right hand edge of the face to the right of Squeeze Play. Around the corner to the left of American Dream Roof.


Protection 

Almost, but not quite enough to keep you from hitting the ground.



Photos of Mother and Apple Pie Slideshow Add Photo
Josh eyeing the next hold and opportunity to plug gear.
Josh eyeing the next hold and opportunity to plug ...
Mother and Apple Pie.
Mother and Apple Pie.
Stewart cruxing above a 000 C3
Stewart cruxing above a 000 C3
Tony on "Mother and Apple Pie"
Tony on "Mother and Apple Pie"
Strong firing the crux of Mother and Apple Pie!
Strong firing the crux of Mother and Apple Pie!
Comments on Mother and Apple Pie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Jul 24, 2009

I say use the right corner up top, it definitely felt more natural although you don't need it. Fun layback climbing!

By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Aug 21, 2009

Can't belive you guys did not post the face route to the left "Procto Pete and the Endos" - that is a cool, continuous 5.12

By Tradoholic
Aug 21, 2009

To the left? To the left of "Squeeze Play"? I didn't get on it. Please post it up! It's not in the guidebook.

By jaysquared
From: Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If the corner is avoided all together, this definitely feels ~10a.

By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Really fun route and good lead! Bomber small cams protect the crux. Although attentive belay is a must to keep a falling climber off the deck. We started in the crack using face holds where they existed. Steller layback moves lead to a distinct crux where the crack pinches down to a seam, a few bad feet and small crimps allow you to gain the jugular horizontal at 25ft. We stayed off the arete which may have added a number grade or so. Grade is probably somewhere in the 5.10 range.