Mostly American  5.9 A3+

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Type:  Aid, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Consensus:  5.9 A3+ [details] FA:  Brian Bird, Eric Draper, Nate Brown, John Sedon--the team Kiwi May 2001 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Nate Brown on Jul 10, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: topo by bryan bird

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Obscure route on the left side of the face. We had so much stuff with us, we called our rig the "mongolian chicken bus". It was a blast, good times. I recall that Doug Heinrich had given Bird and Draper some prototype big peckers and we were so psyched. We were calling them African Peckers. I don't think BD could market them with that name. Kind of not PC...

Location 

The route shares the first two or three pitches with Swiss American and then breaks left through steep glorious aid crack systems. It goes through the right arc of the "cyclops eye" on the face and then through the "batwinger roof" and ending in the huge dihedrals at upper left edge of the cilff. We could have nailed the Cyclops Eye but drilled to preserve the feature. We were worried that we would "dinner plate" the feature--visible to the eye from the road=bad juju...

Protection 

pins, cams, nuts, ropes...