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Nov 27, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
I had a pair of hand jammies shred after about five pitches on granite. The rubber tore like wet cardboard. Even if your jamming sucks, which mine is admittedly questionable, those things should be more durable than that. I've never come down from a crack with my tape all chewed up to shreds. I'm no math genius, but five pitches at 35 bucks vs. about 10-15 per roll of 4 dollar tape seems like a useless piece of gear. They saw me coming. Hand jammies get my vote. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,042 points
Nov 27, 2012
MSBriggs wrote:
My vote: Prusiks are awesome, but not so much these


what a deal!!
ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Apr 27, 2010
275 points
Nov 27, 2012
red rock
motionfitness.com/Treadwall-p/... frenchtoast
From kailua, hi
Joined Oct 26, 2012
10 points
Nov 27, 2012
Mt. Baker


10 Grand??? You have go to be kidding me!
Mark Wyss
From Denver, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
250 points
Nov 28, 2012
Which way again?
I know a real estate twit in Vegas who spent his thousands on a treadwall. Still not a very impressive climber. Word is he had to pay people for belays at one point.

Proud moments in our lives.
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Nov 28, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
I've recently decided both of these are fucking useless.


Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Nov 28, 2012
Which way again?
^^^I think that's a bit situational. Depending on where you're at on a climb, either of those could make a pretty rad bail anchor. I use a #9 hex quite a bit these days. Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Nov 28, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
has anyone been saved from death/dismemberment by the proper use of a snow picket?

honestly curious
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Nov 29, 2012
Maroon Bells-Bell Cord Couloir
willeslinger wrote:
has anyone been saved from death/dismemberment by the proper use of a snow picket? honestly curious


Used one to belay a person up to me on soft snow-it was in combo with a Dead Man to practice... Agree with Smarty Ports... Also the large hex can substitute for a large cam... (saved my ass once.) All small hexes are worthless unless being used for a class.
AnthonyM
Joined Mar 5, 2009
43 points
Nov 29, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
I've belayed off pickets before... I untied myself from the rope while he worked through the crux. Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Nov 29, 2012
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
^^^I think that's a bit situational. Depending on where you're at on a climb, either of those could make a pretty rad bail anchor. I use a #9 hex quite a bit these days.


x2 I always carry 7-10 a ton lighter then double 2-3 bd's
ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Apr 27, 2010
275 points
Nov 29, 2012
Scott Jones wrote:
it's hard to beat this thegearcaster.com/the_gearcast...


hahahhaha . . . .enough said
big tuna
Joined Nov 29, 2012
1 points
Nov 29, 2012
Summit of Rainier.
In 15 years, all the young punks will probably be wearing harness-shorts and laughing at the crusty old geezers that still use separate harnesses. They'll also climb 5.17 that are as hard as the 5.14 being done today.....which would be a 5.6 in the gunks. Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jun 3, 2012
136 points
Nov 29, 2012
Wow, I had no idea those harness/shorts existed. Honestly if they were, say, $80 or less, I would consider picking them up. But $200? Are you shitting me?

There's a pretty recent review of them here: mountainenthusiast.com/2012/09...

The overall tone ends up being pretty positive, but some of the flaws he points out are:
1) Pockets are essentially useless.
2) Not a fan of the drawstring/cinch belt system.
3) Not enough gear loops.
4) He'd feel weird wearing it in a non-climbing situation.

So they kinda seem like shitty shorts (useless pockets, too ugly to wear in public) combined with a shitty harness (not enough gear loops), all for the low price of $200...yet he loves them! I guess you'd have to love them to make yourself feel better for spending $200 on them?
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Nov 29, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
ian watson wrote:
x2 I always carry 7-10 a ton lighter then double 2-3 bd's


I too carry a few larger curved hexes for this reason. Cheaper for bailing and lighter for doubling up.
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Nov 29, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
I don't know what cams you guys are using, but I recently switched out all my cams to UL Powercams.... which are all lighter than hexes.

Bail potential- I can see that. I'd take them as doubles, if I needed doubles and thought a big bail might need to happen. In fact, you guys just convinced me to keep my hex set for soloing... but hexes are NOT the big weight saver the old fuckers tout them as. Not anymore.
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Nov 29, 2012
Which way again?
Ok, Ben, I got interested. Let's see some figures showing blue powercam being lighter than a number 9 BD hex. Whatcha got?

Sounds fishy to me.
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Nov 29, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
Ok, Ben, I got interested. Let's see some figures showing blue powercam being lighter than a number 9 BD hex. Whatcha got? Sounds fishy to me.


You got me... it's 3 grams heavier.

#7 Powercam - 127 g
#9 Wired Hex - 124 g

However...

#8 Powercam - 150 g
#10 Wired Hex - 164 g

Overall -

Set of Wired Hexes - 4-10 - 637 g
Set of Powercams - 2-8 - 670 g

So I'm wrong. A set of Powercams is almost 5% heavier than a set of Wired Hexes.
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Nov 29, 2012
Which way again?
Holy shit, ben, that is pretty wild shit! Guess I need to check out those ultralights, had no idea they'd shaved that much weight off! Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Dec 1, 2012
Tour Ronde North Face
Jake Jones wrote:
I had a pair of hand jammies shred after about five pitches on granite. The rubber tore like wet cardboard. Even if your jamming sucks, which mine is admittedly questionable, those things should be more durable than that. I've never come down from a crack with my tape all chewed up to shreds. I'm no math genius, but five pitches at 35 bucks vs. about 10-15 per roll of 4 dollar tape seems like a useless piece of gear. They saw me coming. Hand jammies get my vote.


Yours have got to be defective. I've got a lot more pitches of granite jam cracks than that on mine, and they still look almost new.
Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Jan 6, 2006
260 points
Dec 2, 2012
psssh large hexes rock faces in Sierra Granite (Tahoe in particular). NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Dec 4, 2012
Me.
Suprised nobody mentioned this Some Dude
Joined Apr 4, 2012
21 points
Dec 4, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
I know a real estate twit in Vegas who spent his thousands on a treadwall. Still not a very impressive climber. Word is he had to pay people for belays at one point. Proud moments in our lives.


I know a guy in Florida who also spent thousands on a treadwall. He has offered to pay for belays on occasion. But he is very much an impressive climber.
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,369 points
Dec 4, 2012
It's me.
Ian Stewart wrote:
Wow, I had no idea those harness/shorts existed. Honestly if they were, say, $80 or less, I would consider picking them up. But $200? Are you shitting me? There's a pretty recent review of them here: mountainenthusiast.com/2012/09... The overall tone ends up being pretty positive, but some of the flaws he points out are: 1) Pockets are essentially useless. 2) Not a fan of the drawstring/cinch belt system. 3) Not enough gear loops. 4) He'd feel weird wearing it in a non-climbing situation. So they kinda seem like shitty shorts (useless pockets, too ugly to wear in public) combined with a shitty harness (not enough gear loops), all for the low price of $200...yet he loves them! I guess you'd have to love them to make yourself feel better for spending $200 on them?


Appreciate the shout out to my review of the Mammut Shorts, Ian. $200 is a bit steep, in my opinion, but it makes sense. $140 for the harness and $60 (about) for really high-quality shorts. I kind of wish I just had a pair of shorts, they're bomber.

Really though, I do love them. If I don't like a certain piece of gear, I'm not going to use it. Simple as that.

Also, I chatted with the product developer about the problems with the harness and he assured me that the problems would be fixed for next years model.
---
Steve
Steve W. Weiss
Joined Dec 4, 2012
5 points
Dec 5, 2012
Steve W. Weiss wrote:
Appreciate the shout out to my review of the Mammut Shorts, Ian. $200 is a bit steep, in my opinion, but it makes sense. $140 for the harness and $60 (about) for really high-quality shorts. I kind of wish I just had a pair of shorts, they're bomber. Really though, I do love them. If I don't like a certain piece of gear, I'm not going to use it. Simple as that. Also, I chatted with the product developer about the problems with the harness and he assured me that the problems would be fixed for next years model. --- Steve


I don't doubt that they're comfortable and convenient once you have them, but it's just plopping down the $200 that's the problem. $60 for shorts seems reasonable, but there are plenty of harnesses for well under $140. Not to mention that when you buy any other harness, you can use it with any other clothing that you want to wear it with.

One thing I don't think you mentioned in the review is whether you paid for the shorts or if they were a gift/sponsored/etc. That's usually worth pointing out in reviews to help clear up any bias.

Nice review though. I always like when I can be lazy and watch a video instead of reading. =)
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points


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