By Jake Jones From The Eastern Flatlands Nov 27, 2012
| I had a pair of hand jammies shred after about five pitches on granite. The rubber tore like wet cardboard. Even if your jamming sucks, which mine is admittedly questionable, those things should be more durable than that. I've never come down from a crack with my tape all chewed up to shreds. I'm no math genius, but five pitches at 35 bucks vs. about 10-15 per roll of 4 dollar tape seems like a useless piece of gear. They saw me coming. Hand jammies get my vote. |  FLAG |
By ian watson From Albuquerque, NM Nov 27, 2012
| MSBriggs wrote: My vote: Prusiks are awesome, but not so much these what a deal!! |  FLAG |
By Killing In The Name Of Nov 28, 2012
| I know a real estate twit in Vegas who spent his thousands on a treadwall. Still not a very impressive climber. Word is he had to pay people for belays at one point. Proud moments in our lives. |  FLAG |
By Ben Beckerich From saint helens, oregon Nov 28, 2012
| I've recently decided both of these are fucking useless. |  FLAG |
By Killing In The Name Of Nov 28, 2012
| ^^^I think that's a bit situational. Depending on where you're at on a climb, either of those could make a pretty rad bail anchor. I use a #9 hex quite a bit these days. |  FLAG |
By willeslinger From Golden, Colorado Nov 28, 2012
| has anyone been saved from death/dismemberment by the proper use of a snow picket? honestly curious |  FLAG |
By Anthony Milano Nov 29, 2012
| willeslinger wrote: has anyone been saved from death/dismemberment by the proper use of a snow picket? honestly curious Used one to belay a person up to me on soft snow-it was in combo with a Dead Man to practice... Agree with Smarty Ports... Also the large hex can substitute for a large cam... (saved my ass once.) All small hexes are worthless unless being used for a class. |  FLAG |
By Ben Beckerich From saint helens, oregon Nov 29, 2012
| I've belayed off pickets before... I untied myself from the rope while he worked through the crux. |  FLAG |
By ian watson From Albuquerque, NM Nov 29, 2012
| Smarty Ports/Shants wrote: ^^^I think that's a bit situational. Depending on where you're at on a climb, either of those could make a pretty rad bail anchor. I use a #9 hex quite a bit these days. x2 I always carry 7-10 a ton lighter then double 2-3 bd's |  FLAG |
By Mike Belu From Indianapolis, IN Nov 29, 2012
| In 15 years, all the young punks will probably be wearing harness-shorts and laughing at the crusty old geezers that still use separate harnesses. They'll also climb 5.17 that are as hard as the 5.14 being done today.....which would be a 5.6 in the gunks. |  FLAG |
By Ian Stewart Nov 29, 2012
| Wow, I had no idea those harness/shorts existed. Honestly if they were, say, $80 or less, I would consider picking them up. But $200? Are you shitting me? There's a pretty recent review of them here: www.mountainenthusiast.com/2012/09/mammut-realization-shorts>>> The overall tone ends up being pretty positive, but some of the flaws he points out are: 1) Pockets are essentially useless. 2) Not a fan of the drawstring/cinch belt system. 3) Not enough gear loops. 4) He'd feel weird wearing it in a non-climbing situation. So they kinda seem like shitty shorts (useless pockets, too ugly to wear in public) combined with a shitty harness (not enough gear loops), all for the low price of $200...yet he loves them! I guess you'd have to love them to make yourself feel better for spending $200 on them? |  FLAG |
By Jon Zucco From Denver, CO Nov 29, 2012
| ian watson wrote: x2 I always carry 7-10 a ton lighter then double 2-3 bd's I too carry a few larger curved hexes for this reason. Cheaper for bailing and lighter for doubling up. |  FLAG |
By Ben Beckerich From saint helens, oregon Nov 29, 2012
| I don't know what cams you guys are using, but I recently switched out all my cams to UL Powercams.... which are all lighter than hexes. Bail potential- I can see that. I'd take them as doubles, if I needed doubles and thought a big bail might need to happen. In fact, you guys just convinced me to keep my hex set for soloing... but hexes are NOT the big weight saver the old fuckers tout them as. Not anymore. |  FLAG |
By Killing In The Name Of Nov 29, 2012
| Ok, Ben, I got interested. Let's see some figures showing blue powercam being lighter than a number 9 BD hex. Whatcha got? Sounds fishy to me. |  FLAG |
By Ben Beckerich From saint helens, oregon Nov 29, 2012
| Smarty Ports/Shants wrote: Ok, Ben, I got interested. Let's see some figures showing blue powercam being lighter than a number 9 BD hex. Whatcha got? Sounds fishy to me. You got me... it's 3 grams heavier. #7 Powercam - 127 g #9 Wired Hex - 124 g However... #8 Powercam - 150 g #10 Wired Hex - 164 g Overall - Set of Wired Hexes - 4-10 - 637 g Set of Powercams - 2-8 - 670 g So I'm wrong. A set of Powercams is almost 5% heavier than a set of Wired Hexes. |  FLAG |
By Killing In The Name Of Nov 29, 2012
| Holy shit, ben, that is pretty wild shit! Guess I need to check out those ultralights, had no idea they'd shaved that much weight off! |  FLAG |
By Kai Larson From Sandy, Utah Dec 1, 2012
| Jake Jones wrote: I had a pair of hand jammies shred after about five pitches on granite. The rubber tore like wet cardboard. Even if your jamming sucks, which mine is admittedly questionable, those things should be more durable than that. I've never come down from a crack with my tape all chewed up to shreds. I'm no math genius, but five pitches at 35 bucks vs. about 10-15 per roll of 4 dollar tape seems like a useless piece of gear. They saw me coming. Hand jammies get my vote. Yours have got to be defective. I've got a lot more pitches of granite jam cracks than that on mine, and they still look almost new. |  FLAG |
By NorCalNomad From San Francisco Dec 2, 2012
| psssh large hexes rock faces in Sierra Granite (Tahoe in particular). |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 4, 2012
| Smarty Ports/Shants wrote: I know a real estate twit in Vegas who spent his thousands on a treadwall. Still not a very impressive climber. Word is he had to pay people for belays at one point. Proud moments in our lives. I know a guy in Florida who also spent thousands on a treadwall. He has offered to pay for belays on occasion. But he is very much an impressive climber. |  FLAG |
By Steve W. Weiss Dec 4, 2012
| Ian Stewart wrote: Wow, I had no idea those harness/shorts existed. Honestly if they were, say, $80 or less, I would consider picking them up. But $200? Are you shitting me? There's a pretty recent review of them here: www.mountainenthusiast.com/2012/09/mammut-realization-shorts>>> The overall tone ends up being pretty positive, but some of the flaws he points out are: 1) Pockets are essentially useless. 2) Not a fan of the drawstring/cinch belt system. 3) Not enough gear loops. 4) He'd feel weird wearing it in a non-climbing situation. So they kinda seem like shitty shorts (useless pockets, too ugly to wear in public) combined with a shitty harness (not enough gear loops), all for the low price of $200...yet he loves them! I guess you'd have to love them to make yourself feel better for spending $200 on them? Appreciate the shout out to my review of the Mammut Shorts, Ian. $200 is a bit steep, in my opinion, but it makes sense. $140 for the harness and $60 (about) for really high-quality shorts. I kind of wish I just had a pair of shorts, they're bomber. Really though, I do love them. If I don't like a certain piece of gear, I'm not going to use it. Simple as that. Also, I chatted with the product developer about the problems with the harness and he assured me that the problems would be fixed for next years model. --- Steve |  FLAG |
By Ian Stewart Dec 5, 2012
| Steve W. Weiss wrote: Appreciate the shout out to my review of the Mammut Shorts, Ian. $200 is a bit steep, in my opinion, but it makes sense. $140 for the harness and $60 (about) for really high-quality shorts. I kind of wish I just had a pair of shorts, they're bomber. Really though, I do love them. If I don't like a certain piece of gear, I'm not going to use it. Simple as that. Also, I chatted with the product developer about the problems with the harness and he assured me that the problems would be fixed for next years model. --- Steve I don't doubt that they're comfortable and convenient once you have them, but it's just plopping down the $200 that's the problem. $60 for shorts seems reasonable, but there are plenty of harnesses for well under $140. Not to mention that when you buy any other harness, you can use it with any other clothing that you want to wear it with. One thing I don't think you mentioned in the review is whether you paid for the shorts or if they were a gift/sponsored/etc. That's usually worth pointing out in reviews to help clear up any bias. Nice review though. I always like when I can be lazy and watch a video instead of reading. =) |  FLAG |
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