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Most useless piece of gear
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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Nov 27, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.
I had a pair of hand jammies shred after about five pitches on granite. The rubber tore like wet cardboard. Even if your jamming sucks, which mine is admittedly questionable, those things should be more durable than that. I've never come down from a crack with my tape all chewed up to shreds. I'm no math genius, but five pitches at 35 bucks vs. about 10-15 per roll of 4 dollar tape seems like a useless piece of gear. They saw me coming. Hand jammies get my vote.

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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Nov 27, 2012
MSBriggs wrote:
My vote: Prusiks are awesome, but not so much these


what a deal!!

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By frenchtoast
From kailua, hi
Nov 27, 2012
motionfitness.com/Treadwall-p/...

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By Mark Wyss
From Denver, CO
Nov 27, 2012
Mt. Baker


10 Grand??? You have go to be kidding me!

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By Cultivating Mass
Nov 28, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
I know a real estate twit in Vegas who spent his thousands on a treadwall. Still not a very impressive climber. Word is he had to pay people for belays at one point.

Proud moments in our lives.

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Nov 28, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock
I've recently decided both of these are fucking useless.



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By Cultivating Mass
Nov 28, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
^^^I think that's a bit situational. Depending on where you're at on a climb, either of those could make a pretty rad bail anchor. I use a #9 hex quite a bit these days.

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Nov 28, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.
has anyone been saved from death/dismemberment by the proper use of a snow picket?

honestly curious

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By AnthonyM
Nov 29, 2012
Maroon Bells-Bell Cord Couloir
willeslinger wrote:
has anyone been saved from death/dismemberment by the proper use of a snow picket? honestly curious


Used one to belay a person up to me on soft snow-it was in combo with a Dead Man to practice... Agree with Smarty Ports... Also the large hex can substitute for a large cam... (saved my ass once.) All small hexes are worthless unless being used for a class.

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Nov 29, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock
I've belayed off pickets before... I untied myself from the rope while he worked through the crux.

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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Nov 29, 2012
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
^^^I think that's a bit situational. Depending on where you're at on a climb, either of those could make a pretty rad bail anchor. I use a #9 hex quite a bit these days.


x2 I always carry 7-10 a ton lighter then double 2-3 bd's

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By big tuna
Nov 29, 2012
Scott Jones wrote:
it's hard to beat this thegearcaster.com/the_gearcast...


hahahhaha . . . .enough said

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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Nov 29, 2012
Summit of Rainier.
In 15 years, all the young punks will probably be wearing harness-shorts and laughing at the crusty old geezers that still use separate harnesses. They'll also climb 5.17 that are as hard as the 5.14 being done today.....which would be a 5.6 in the gunks.

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By Ian Stewart
Nov 29, 2012
Wow, I had no idea those harness/shorts existed. Honestly if they were, say, $80 or less, I would consider picking them up. But $200? Are you shitting me?

There's a pretty recent review of them here: mountainenthusiast.com/2012/09...

The overall tone ends up being pretty positive, but some of the flaws he points out are:
1) Pockets are essentially useless.
2) Not a fan of the drawstring/cinch belt system.
3) Not enough gear loops.
4) He'd feel weird wearing it in a non-climbing situation.

So they kinda seem like shitty shorts (useless pockets, too ugly to wear in public) combined with a shitty harness (not enough gear loops), all for the low price of $200...yet he loves them! I guess you'd have to love them to make yourself feel better for spending $200 on them?

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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Nov 29, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
ian watson wrote:
x2 I always carry 7-10 a ton lighter then double 2-3 bd's


I too carry a few larger curved hexes for this reason. Cheaper for bailing and lighter for doubling up.

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Nov 29, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock
I don't know what cams you guys are using, but I recently switched out all my cams to UL Powercams.... which are all lighter than hexes.

Bail potential- I can see that. I'd take them as doubles, if I needed doubles and thought a big bail might need to happen. In fact, you guys just convinced me to keep my hex set for soloing... but hexes are NOT the big weight saver the old fuckers tout them as. Not anymore.

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By Cultivating Mass
Nov 29, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Ok, Ben, I got interested. Let's see some figures showing blue powercam being lighter than a number 9 BD hex. Whatcha got?

Sounds fishy to me.

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Nov 29, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
Ok, Ben, I got interested. Let's see some figures showing blue powercam being lighter than a number 9 BD hex. Whatcha got? Sounds fishy to me.


You got me... it's 3 grams heavier.

#7 Powercam - 127 g
#9 Wired Hex - 124 g

However...

#8 Powercam - 150 g
#10 Wired Hex - 164 g

Overall -

Set of Wired Hexes - 4-10 - 637 g
Set of Powercams - 2-8 - 670 g

So I'm wrong. A set of Powercams is almost 5% heavier than a set of Wired Hexes.

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By Cultivating Mass
Nov 29, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Holy shit, ben, that is pretty wild shit! Guess I need to check out those ultralights, had no idea they'd shaved that much weight off!

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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Dec 1, 2012
Tour Ronde North Face
Jake Jones wrote:
I had a pair of hand jammies shred after about five pitches on granite. The rubber tore like wet cardboard. Even if your jamming sucks, which mine is admittedly questionable, those things should be more durable than that. I've never come down from a crack with my tape all chewed up to shreds. I'm no math genius, but five pitches at 35 bucks vs. about 10-15 per roll of 4 dollar tape seems like a useless piece of gear. They saw me coming. Hand jammies get my vote.


Yours have got to be defective. I've got a lot more pitches of granite jam cracks than that on mine, and they still look almost new.

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Dec 2, 2012
psssh large hexes rock faces in Sierra Granite (Tahoe in particular).

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By Some Dude
Dec 4, 2012
Me.
Suprised nobody mentioned this

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 4, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
I know a real estate twit in Vegas who spent his thousands on a treadwall. Still not a very impressive climber. Word is he had to pay people for belays at one point. Proud moments in our lives.


I know a guy in Florida who also spent thousands on a treadwall. He has offered to pay for belays on occasion. But he is very much an impressive climber.

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By Steve W. Weiss
Dec 4, 2012
It's me.
Ian Stewart wrote:
Wow, I had no idea those harness/shorts existed. Honestly if they were, say, $80 or less, I would consider picking them up. But $200? Are you shitting me? There's a pretty recent review of them here: mountainenthusiast.com/2012/09... The overall tone ends up being pretty positive, but some of the flaws he points out are: 1) Pockets are essentially useless. 2) Not a fan of the drawstring/cinch belt system. 3) Not enough gear loops. 4) He'd feel weird wearing it in a non-climbing situation. So they kinda seem like shitty shorts (useless pockets, too ugly to wear in public) combined with a shitty harness (not enough gear loops), all for the low price of $200...yet he loves them! I guess you'd have to love them to make yourself feel better for spending $200 on them?


Appreciate the shout out to my review of the Mammut Shorts, Ian. $200 is a bit steep, in my opinion, but it makes sense. $140 for the harness and $60 (about) for really high-quality shorts. I kind of wish I just had a pair of shorts, they're bomber.

Really though, I do love them. If I don't like a certain piece of gear, I'm not going to use it. Simple as that.

Also, I chatted with the product developer about the problems with the harness and he assured me that the problems would be fixed for next years model.
---
Steve

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By Ian Stewart
Dec 5, 2012
Steve W. Weiss wrote:
Appreciate the shout out to my review of the Mammut Shorts, Ian. $200 is a bit steep, in my opinion, but it makes sense. $140 for the harness and $60 (about) for really high-quality shorts. I kind of wish I just had a pair of shorts, they're bomber. Really though, I do love them. If I don't like a certain piece of gear, I'm not going to use it. Simple as that. Also, I chatted with the product developer about the problems with the harness and he assured me that the problems would be fixed for next years model. --- Steve


I don't doubt that they're comfortable and convenient once you have them, but it's just plopping down the $200 that's the problem. $60 for shorts seems reasonable, but there are plenty of harnesses for well under $140. Not to mention that when you buy any other harness, you can use it with any other clothing that you want to wear it with.

One thing I don't think you mentioned in the review is whether you paid for the shorts or if they were a gift/sponsored/etc. That's usually worth pointing out in reviews to help clear up any bias.

Nice review though. I always like when I can be lazy and watch a video instead of reading. =)

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