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Most recommended trad leads rated 5.6 or 5.7 at JTree.
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Feb 2, 2013
I got a full rack and some! Looking for a few good routes in the area. Prefer easy walk offs or rap offs.


Peace!



Ziggy zig zig.
Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 2, 2013
Check out The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree: 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9 it's a good place to start.

off the top of my head, the climbs in that range that I enjoyed were toe jam, overhang bypass, white lightning, and bussioner, I know there's tons others that I've been on and enjoyed but it's been atleast 7 years since I've been to J-tree.

There's tons others that were fun below 5.6 and above 5.7 too I've never led harder than 5.8 in josh but I've never been without something good to climb.
John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
Feb 2, 2013
joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGues... FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
130 points
Feb 2, 2013
@Frank - nifty page! printed it and gonna use it for shizzle!!!
@John thNK U
Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 2, 2013
The Monastery
Mental physics (5.7+) is a must-do (if you can find it). And if you are feeling confident, definitely try Sail Away (5.8-). Jake Carroll
From The Springs
Joined Nov 15, 2008
195 points
Feb 2, 2013
J Tree after blizzard
+1 for Mental Physics

Some other fun 5.7s that I can immediately think of:

White Lightning
Toe Jam
Lazy Day
Double Cross

While not a trad route, the Southwest Corner of headstone rock (Ryan Campground, sandbagged and runout 5.6 with wild exposure) is awesome too.
plantmandan
From Brighton, Co
Joined Sep 24, 2010
60 points
Feb 2, 2013
+1 for SW corner of headstone and double cross

Also, I agree with the comment about Sail Away if you are confident.

The easy trad guidebook that was recommended is a great resource. The big guidebook can be so overwhelming.
david quatro
Joined Feb 28, 2006
13 points
Administrator
Feb 2, 2013
Kinnaloa ad (1987) with their famous line "Th...
The Route Finder function on this site is quite good - mountainproject.com/scripts/Se... C Miller
Joined Jan 1, 2002
54,438 points
Feb 2, 2013
Zigler wrote:
@Frank - nifty page! printed it and gonna use it for shizzle!!!


Ziggy - use that page for climbing, not for "shizzle."
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
130 points
Feb 2, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
+1 for Mental Physics and Toe Jam, check the long thread here before hopping on Double Cross. We have also enjoyed New Toy and Gargoyle and there area couple of good routes across the way from New Toy that are in the big book (can't recall their names right now). A couple of trips ago, we also found a number of enjoyable moderate climbs in the area called Outer Mongolia - not the best place to go if it's super windy though.

Lazy Day is also good, but (reflecting on climbs in the Trad Guide to JTree book) avoid Eff 8 like the plague.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Feb 2, 2013
White Lightning matt davies
Joined Mar 9, 2007
25 points
Feb 3, 2013
What's wrong with Eff 8?? A little slick at the bottom and walk off sucks otherwise a nice long climb. I did it and liked it. Bussioneer not so much...awkward, slick, not well protected. White lightening sandbag galore for the grade. Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 3, 2013
FrankPS wrote:
Ziggy - use that page for climbing, not for "shizzle."

Oh point taken,my brotha...and what's up with all that sweaty palms talk at the beginning????

See ya in the funny pages!
Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 3, 2013
Southwest corner is good for the grade, although I would call it a one hit wonder, it"s neither here nor there. I must admit that it tookk me a little bit of "dancing" at the top to pass the exposed area, good frixion so it is a 6. Mike's book P2 got my attention at the top for realz.
thankz for feedbackz and keep em comin!

Ziggeeyyyy zig zig
Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 3, 2013
C Miller wrote:
The Route Finder function on this site is quite good - mountainproject.com/scripts/Se...

I know, Admin, I know all that....the reason why I started this thread is that I need fresh PEOPLE"S OPINION. There are guide books, climbers at the crag, guides at the crag etc. etc. put simply we are talking rocks here.
Peace!

Ziggy zig zig
Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 4, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Double Dog Leg.... in the rock garden valley.

Tons of other good ones up there make the uphill scrambling worth it.
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
212 points
Feb 4, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
If you're looking for an intro to offwidth climbing then I'd recommend dolphin which is a 5.6 or 5.7 (I forget). It is right next to Bird of Fire which is a fun top rope for beginners.

Make sure to bring your BD #6 or equivalent.
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Feb 5, 2013
I dont like off width. But thanx anyway.
Why is mental physics hard to find. Please send beta on how to find it ASAP!!!!!

Ziggy
Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 5, 2013
Zigler wrote:
I dont like off width. But thanx anyway. Why is mental physics hard to find. Please send beta on how to find it ASAP!!!!! Ziggy


It's not hard to find.
Derek Doucet
Joined Apr 26, 2010
193 points
Feb 5, 2013
Like he said, it's not hard to find. You just have to hoof it out there. It's the crack up the middle of the big dome. Great route; one of my favs anywhere. Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
138 points
Feb 5, 2013
profile pic
+1 for Toe Jam. Excellent climb. If you want a bunch of moderates in the same area, check out Trashcan Rock. If you want to set up top ropes at the end of the day, check out the Thin Wall in Real Hidden Valley. I also really liked Leapyear Flake on Dairy Queen Wall, although you need some thin gear (#00 or #0 master cam) for the bottom section if you want to make it really safe. There's a few other good climbs at Dairy Queen, but it is most likely in the shade this time of year.

As far as Mental Physics, I only did the first pitch. The second pitch starts up unprotected face for about 15 feet off of the belay to the first bolt. If you are feeling heady, go for it. Didn't look like the climbing was worth the risk from where I was sitting at the belay. The first pitch is excellent, though, and worth the hike. Plan on spending about an hour on the approach if you haven't been in the wanderland of rocks before. I might do the second pitch if I was there now, but back when 5.7+ was near my limit, the second pitch looked scary... Top of first pitch is equipped with rap rings.

The Bong on the Blob formation was my first trad lead (and first lead climb ever). The walk off is a bit concerning though, for those not accustomed to J-Tree walk offs.
Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Joined Nov 13, 2010
1,310 points
Feb 5, 2013
Profile Photo
Mountain project does have a pretty sweet little route finder for your use. Some routes mountain project suggested
Change the search parameters to get different routes.
Ty Morrison-Heath
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Mar 22, 2011
2,110 points
Feb 5, 2013
Went to Indian cove...ok Eldo is way better than Gunks but some East coast gumbies got offended....whatevaa
will be back for more!
zig
Zigler
Joined Jan 28, 2013
0 points
Feb 6, 2013
Bambi Meets Godzilla on the backside of Echo across the flats from Eff 8. 150+ feet of every kind of 5.8 climbing. Super fun. BRegan
From Joshua Tree, CA
Joined Aug 17, 2006
23 points
Feb 6, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave
You have to jump on Right On. Awesome multipitch 5.6 on Saddle Rock. Its got everything from run out slab, to crack, chimney and easy face climbing. Probably my favorite easy climb I've done in the park. William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Joined Sep 22, 2011
9 points
Feb 6, 2013
White Lightning.
Right On.
The Swift.
Mental Physics.
Who's First.
Overhang Bypass.
all the ones on the Dairy Queen wall
Double Cross.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,275 points


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