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most memorable sport climb for you...
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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Nov 19, 2009
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

No Money Down, Rumney, NH. My first 5.10 lead and first time I truly pumped out. Did it second try and was scared shitless at the top I was so pumped and thought I was going for the "big" whip ;). Felt so good to clip the anchors on that one.


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By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Me on Land of Ra, Cadillac Crag, Eldorado. <br /> <br />Thanks for the picture Craig Muderlak!

My comment was tongue-in-cheek, but not intended to be arrogant or spark a trad vs. sport debate. But I can see how I could be interpreted that way, mea culpa.

Sport climbing was super cool, and I was super psyched to go sport climbing as I now am super psyched to go trad climbing.


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By Tom Hanson
Nov 19, 2009
Climber Drawing

Back in the mid-eighties I had a couple of horrifying, near death experiences while leading trad, both within the same week.
I was so shaken up that it took me months to get back to leading at my previous level.
It was right at that time that the first Rock & Ice mini-guide came out for The Bank at Shelf Road. I believe it was in the same issue that covered Patrick Edlinger's win at the Snowbird comp.
I'd heard about the new sport routes that were being put up at Smith Rock, but this new wave of French style climbing was relatively new to Colorado so my buddy Mark Johler and I decided to spend a week at Shelf to check it out.
Back then routes were going in so fast that the mini-guide was already outdated and I was attracted to a line that wasn't in our mini-guide (actually it was, but so many new lines had gone up in between the published routes that it was hard to discern). I decided to give it a go and since the bolts were spaced about eight to ten feet apart I found it a rather easy send.
After rapping off the anchors a guy who had been watching seemed rather impressed with my lead and wanted my opinion on the climb.
I said that I thought it was really fun and he told me it was called Surreal Estate and was rated 5.12!
That experience was a real shot in the arm for my confidence level that had been severely diminished so recently.
Soon after that trip I purchased my own Bosch drill and started putting in my own sport climbs, but only after getting tendinitis from putting in my first sport routes at Castlewood utilizing the old tap and twist method.
I will always look back on the first route I bolted with fond memories. Helm Hammerhand, a short 9+ at The Wood.
Certain sport climbs that we put up back in the early days of Devils Head development stand out. During the period that File Drawer, Crocodile Rock, Rock Nazi and other routes on The Headstone and Crimpfest went in we had so much fun. Back then the core Head Crew of Tod Anderson, Mike Lane, Richard Wright, Ziggy Moscovitz and I were having so much fun it is amazing we ever got any routes in.
There was so much camaraderie and we had this amazing new areas to ourselves.
Putting in and sending Better Rad Than Trad with Tod stands out as a particularly eventful and memorable day.


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By Brian Adzima
From the Paris of Appalachia
Nov 19, 2009
somewhere in WV

One of the more memorable sport routes for me was a somewhat overhanging pocket route that I don't know the name of. It was steep, sustained, and had several interesting sequences. I did not send it after two goes, and probably won't get the chance to go back to it.

The crag was at 10,000 feet, surrounded by several fourteeners and the second tier where this particular climb was located was a large ledge overlooking a grassy cirque. There was a waterfall immediately to the right, occasionally blowing some mist on the route, and erasing any signs that it was ever climbed.

Typical sport climbing pile.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Stabby

tooTALLtim wrote:
My comment was tongue-in-cheek, but not intended to be arrogant or spark a trad vs. sport debate. But I can see how I could be interpreted that way, mea culpa. Sport climbing was super cool, and I was super psyched to go sport climbing as I now am super psyched to go trad climbing.

FWIW Tim, my top 10 memorable routes are all trad, but thats not the OP's intent. I regret sounding snarky. Especially since you are a good guy.


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By Tom Hanson
Nov 19, 2009
Climber Drawing

This is a fun topic.
Let's not let it digress into the tired old trad vs sport debate.
Yes, we can all agree that trad climbing is more dangerous and adventurous, but that is not the point of the original post.
One of the highlights of sport climbing is that it tends to be more social than trad climbing by its very nature and herein lies one of its many virtues.
Leading trad can be a rather lonesome, profoundly personal experience with very few words exchanged between partners until sharing a belay stance.
Sport climbing is relatively safe and for this very reason it is lighter and more jovial in character.
Hideously scary trad leads are fun only in retrospect for all but the most masochistic climbers.
Ok, I'll shut up, lest I not practice what I preach.


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By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Me on Land of Ra, Cadillac Crag, Eldorado. <br /> <br />Thanks for the picture Craig Muderlak!

No sweat Mike, happy climbing!


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By Tom Hanson
Nov 19, 2009
Climber Drawing

Hey Ubermike. What are your plans for Saturday?
We're heading to The Gragoyle Walls at The Wood and it would be great if you could join us for some wimpy inferior sport climbing and toproping.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Stabby

Tim: I think you and Tom ought to hook up next spring for an FA spree up at the crag I showed you last year. Plus there's more around the backside too. You 2 should keep that in mind, you both have a similar sense of enthusiasm.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Nov 19, 2009

Equatorial and Tonsai Playboy stand out for me on Tonsai.

Did so many good ones at the Red too, hard to pick a fave.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Stabby

There's a route at the Gym/Shelf Road I was on like 15 years ago, it has a big roof/bulge about halfway up and the thing I remember is the 2-hand mailbox slot in between cruxes on the bulge. Anyone know which route that is?


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Pulling a small roof at 2/3 height on Mission Impossible.  Adam Sanders photo.

DisturbingThePeace wrote:
Mercy the Huff RRG KY, simply amazing climbing.


Great choice DTP! When I first saw this thread I couldn't think of one route that was perfect, but the first one to cross my mind was Table of Colors. My first onsight of that grade, on an amazing wall that I had all to myself, on the last day of the best climbing season of my life. After I clipped the chains on that I honestly felt I could never climb again and be totally content. That notion lasted about 2 weeks :)


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By Kat A
From Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Summit of Chasm View

Admit it TooTall - you do like sport climbing or otherwise you wouldn't be posting in this forum. :)


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By HoseBeats
Nov 19, 2009

African Head Charge, Fish Wall, Paynes Ford NZ.
Far too hard for me, long and sustained with a heart breaker crux at the top. Perseverance and endless encouragement is what helped me send. Taught me how to try hard. By far one of the best sport routes I've ever been on. The night time, nude send attempt was sweet as well.

Goliath, Enchanted Tower, NM
The first time I've tried something without any sort of expectation attached. Making a few more moves before falling became a joy instead of total frustration. I dig totally wiring something as well. Still haven't sent it. Next spring it will be done.

Edited to add-
Some random route on the crag El Falco across from Suirana in Spain.
A 45m pitch of perfect limestone with awesome rests and boulder problems between. Small caves filled with crystals, almost like a geode. So long, so airy, so badass. My first 7a+ onsight.


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By Spencer Anderson
From Fort Collins, CO
Nov 19, 2009
game face

I have to add to this one.
about 5 years ago, a couple years after I first started climbing, my wife (who doesn't climb), when contemplating her mortality wanted us to come up with "goals" before we turned 30. She said she wanted to finish a marathon. I said I wanted to climb a 5.13. My comment was fairly impulsive and sarcastic as I was trying to get out of the hypothetical conversation that my wife tends to drag me into. As the years went on I didn't give much thought to it until I turned 29 and figured it might be possible. Anyway, that year and that goal (which I suddenly became obsessed with) kept me focused on climbing. And last year I sent Buddha Belly (Boulder Canyon). It's amazing what you can do in life if you stay focused and dedicated to something. My wife finished her marathon about two years prior.


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By Brigette
From Vancouver, WA
Nov 19, 2009
At the anchors.

HoseBeats wrote:
The night time, nude send attempt was sweet as well.


Ah. That reminds me of another climb. :D

How could I have forgotten Agatha Christie, Halloween night 2008?

While there are no bolts on this route (there are chain anchors), I've only ever toproped it, so it might as well be a sport climb to me.


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By Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Nov 19, 2009

My most memorable sport climb, is listed as a trad climb. It's not even close to being a true trad climb. But it climbs like a sport climb for the most part other than the cam just below the roof on the 1st pitch (which I led). The bolts are rather spaced out on the 2nd and 3rd pitch, but the last (4th) pitch make up for that in a big way. About 12 bolts in about 85 feet. South Platte area. Can anybody guess yet? Or better question, do any of you colorado climbers not know what the name is? OK.............Topographic Oceans on the Dome. I've only done it once, but couldn't quite get the last pitch clean (even though I followed it). Quite thin for 5.10a IMO! Anyhow I plan do go try it again clean someday. A truly beautiful climb in a great location.


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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Me, of course

Sofa Kingdom, my first .10 sport lead, although it's really a stretch to even call it .9-, but I felt great at the time :(


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Lone goat..

"When Legends Die", AKA Legends, Hueco Tanks, TX! The best 13a in the world.......tho I haven't been around the world, WHATEVER!!!! Super good, and spicy too.


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By DisturbingThePeace
From Albuquerque, NM
Nov 19, 2009
PBR Time at the Creek

Monomaniac wrote:
Great choice DTP! When I first saw this thread I couldn't think of one route that was perfect, but the first one to cross my mind was Table of Colors. My first onsight of that grade, on an amazing wall that I had all to myself, on the last day of the best climbing season of my life. After I clipped the chains on that I honestly felt I could never climb again and be totally content. That notion lasted about 2 weeks :)


Table of Colors was also amazing, and one I have to come back for. Nice job on the OS, on my second go I made it through the lower powerful crux, got to the good rest, then fell off on the funky upper crux before the chains. Had I sent it probably would have made my favorites list :).


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Nov 19, 2009

A. Roberts wrote:
Figures on a Landscape, in J-Tree. By far my favorite.


Dude, come on. Sport route? No. Definitely going to get some folks in trouble if you point towards that with the expectation its a sport route (especially given the runouts on the second pitch and the third pitch that takes gear).

One of the most awesome routes ever? Yes.

Here's another chime for trad "arrogance" (sounds like someone's a little sensitive). I like sport climbing but nothing really stands out as all that interesting compared to the trad stuff I've done. I do remember some really good sport climbs in Arco, Italy though. Good routes, good locals.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Stabby

Fat Dad wrote:
(sounds like someone's a little sensitive).

Someone's a little recently laid off. If it didn't get quoted I would've yanked the post.
Ken Cangi once used the phrase here: "another soulless sport route", which by and large they are. That is why hearing about the ones that do mean something makes this thread interesting.


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By James Otey
From NH
Nov 19, 2009
Urban Surfer, Rumney. <br /> <br />Photo by Lee Hansche

Thin Man at Rumney!

Thanks for the belay Lee...


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Give me a sport route with the exposure and length of a good trad route and I'll give you one on my list of favorites.

In no particular order:
Birds of Fire on Chief's head. If you can call it a sport route (?), then heck yeah! I can't forget that the top pitch is trad, but even skipping that it'd still be a great route. So +1 for that.
Yellow Brick Road in Red Rocks. There is a nice long line of climbing that is primarily bolted.
About everything I've been on at Ra/Halidome that is sport has been great. 3-4 pitch long 5.10-5.12 sport routes? Bring it on! Windows on The World, Training Day, Miner's Delight, Higher Calling, Empire Of the Air to the Rohan Face, Nearer to Thee...

Tony starting the crux sequences.
Tony starting the crux sequences.

Then there is Halidome, if you want to go bigger and harder. Try Cat Tracks to Touch Gold for a 7-pitch, sandbag 5.12+.


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By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Me on Land of Ra, Cadillac Crag, Eldorado. <br /> <br />Thanks for the picture Craig Muderlak!

Kat A wrote:
Admit it TooTall - you do like sport climbing or otherwise you wouldn't be posting in this forum. :)

I used to...and I don't have a problem with most bolts :-P

Mike Lane wrote:
Someone's a little recently laid off.

Dang, sorry to hear. I've been unemployed since June.

I would like to get back there and climb some of those cracks! Keep me in mind Tom.


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