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most memorable sport climb for you...
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Nov 18, 2009
me and the sentinel....
your first lead? your hardest route?... biggest project... successes, failures, inspirations... you get the picture what is your most memorable sport climb? why?

i need to ponder this one my self then ill add one...
lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Joined Jan 10, 2007
19,319 points
Nov 18, 2009
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December...
Most memorable sport climb?! I thought you'd never ask. My first sport lead...Damn, I think that was way back in the year 2000! It's hard to believe I've been climbing that long, and I'm not still not sending 5.12s, cough, 5.11s, sneeze, and hardly any scary 5.10s yet. I'll blame it on my first sport lead, really! ; )

Here you go, Lee! True story.

Cow Lick Co Crag
Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Joined May 25, 2005
4,468 points
Nov 18, 2009
Running Man at Red Rocks. At the time (1994) it was at the top of my ability. Somehow managed to grit through without falling. It was not pretty though. I think I required 2 rest days after that ascent. Michael Sokoloff
From Spokane, WA
Joined Oct 22, 2006
164 points
Nov 18, 2009
Loving it up in the Creek!
All of them were kick ass, coming straight out of the gym.

But then I was introduced to trad climbing...and then following a line of bolts wasn't so fun anymore.
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 9, 2007
1,303 points
Nov 18, 2009
The upper committing crux of Secret of the Beehive...
Eiger Direct at Little Eiger in Clear Creek Canyon. Not the hardest or even the best climb I've done, but meant the most personally to me. When I latched the crimp after the crux, that moment exactly, was the moment I considered myself a climber. tcamillieri
From Denver
Joined Sep 8, 2008
1,224 points
Nov 18, 2009
The last one I actually made it to the top... Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
987 points
Nov 18, 2009
tooTALLtim wrote:
All of them were kick ass, coming straight out of the gym. But then I was introduced to trad climbing...and then following a line of bolts wasn't so fun anymore.

Thats because to you the total devotion to athleticism is not as important as the view. To each his own. 90% of MP'ers enjoy both sides of the fence, this arrogance about trad is so tiring. The best part is that all of the primary sport developers around these parts are also capable and have a history of high-end trad.

As for me, I have a project that was 3-4 letters beyond me that I came within 4" of sending on my last, best attempt just by relentless training and having it ruthlessly wired.

Getting on Rumor Has It while still brand new (1-2 weeks), after a couple hours of walking and staring at what was yet to come; thus confirming the wild-eyed stories bursting out of Richard the entire preceding week.

Private Idaho the day it went in after a 2 hour no trail bushwack thrash (long way around the backside), another first route for the area it is in. The look in Dave Fields' eyes when he first glanced over the top and saw how much stone was there, underneath us.
Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Nov 18, 2009
Hanging out on Moonlight.
Figures on a Landscape, in J-Tree. By far my favorite. A. Roberts
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 2, 2007
877 points
Nov 18, 2009
False Summit of the Thumb
The most memorable sport climbs...
Route of all Evil, VRG. Because others said I couldn't, and so I climbed it for the wrong reasons.
The Event Horizon, Sandia Mountains. Because I wanted to, and so I climbed it for the right reasons, my own.
From Rio Rancho, NM
Joined Mar 16, 2009
590 points
Nov 18, 2009
Jacob Krenn working his way up the Incredible Hulk...
Ro Shampo, RRG, KY. 2nd trip to the Red, 2nd trip outdoor climbing anywhere in my life, ever. 1st trip leading anything, sport or trad, ever. Friend clipped bolts 1,2, and 3, and let me take over. I managed the send and nearly shat my pants (due to excitement not fear). I recall hitting the 2-3 finger pocket below the jug on the crux move, somehow holding on, and bumping to the jug. I was so stoked to send the crux I almost fell due to excitement. Fell in love with climbing that day right then right there. Moved to Utah about a year later, moved to Yosemite after that. Stoked. Jacob Krenn
Joined Aug 11, 2008
98 points
Nov 18, 2009
My Route, a 5.6 multipitch bolted climb on Table Rock in the Linville Gorge, NC. First complete lead of a multipitch climb - and we brought along a bong to pull tubes at belay ledges. Oh the idiocy of youth. Izza
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1 points
Nov 18, 2009
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
The closest I could come to a memorable sport route is Birds of Fire on Chiefshead. Hard to call this a sport route though...36 bolts over 1000' with occasional gear. True sport routes memorable? None. Sorry Mike Lane and the likes. No offense. Not trad vs sport. Jusy my experience. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
966 points
Nov 19, 2009
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Mike Lane wrote: Thats because to you the total devotion to athleticism is not as important as the view. To each his own. 90% of MP'ers enjoy both sides of the fence, this arrogance about trad is so tiring.

Kind of lame to bash Tim. That is just his experience. Tim is a super nice guy, super excited to climb. To the best of my knowledge, a public forum solicits public opinion. Like assholes, everyone's got one.

As far as 90% of mp'ers enjoy both sides of the fence. I don't know. I haven't taken a poll. But, I bet many of the sport only climbers would love to cross the fence to trad, then do both, or maybe trad only.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
966 points
Nov 19, 2009
Enjoying beautiful Red Rocks.
Mike Lane wrote:
Thats because to you the total devotion to athleticism is not as important as the view.

So the only reason to prefer trad climbing is because you like pretty views? Pretty snide remark from a post lecturing on arrogance.
Aaron S
Joined Dec 10, 2006
190 points
Nov 19, 2009
Jacob Krenn working his way up the Incredible Hulk...
+1 Gregg
+1 Aaron

I happened to start out as a top-rope/gym climber. My first trips outdoor climbing were at the Red. Now (3 years later), I consider myself to be primarily a trad climber. This post allowed me to reminisce how my first 2 trips involving outdoor (sport, at the time) climbing introduced me to the sport.

Forum= Public place to discuss thoughts/feeling/knowledge
(minus arrogance or ego, preferably)

There is no definition saying sport climbing is about numbers, bro-brah's, strength, or girls in tight clothing.

There is no definition saying trad climbing is about run-outs, gobies, cheap beer, whiskey, stellar views, or being cheap and crusty.

Let's all just enjoy climbing and be able to share experiences regardless of using draws, #6 Camalots, offset Aliens, or Pads for protection.
Jacob Krenn
Joined Aug 11, 2008
98 points
Nov 19, 2009
sport routes... The scariest sport route... Run for your life, at Joshua Tree. bolts all the way brother, and scary as scary. Pat C
From Honolulu
Joined Mar 14, 2009
94 points
Nov 19, 2009
Summit of Chasm View
Crest Jewel in Yosemite. Superb rock, gorgeous views. We were climbing as fast as possible trying to outrun an impending storm. Sumitted North Dome around 1:30 after 25 combined pitches on Royal Arches and Crest Jewel; wasn't much time to sit up top because of lightening risk but it was a fantastic day. Kat A
From Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Joined Jun 23, 2006
602 points
Nov 19, 2009
me bouldering in MT
Humanality in Thailand. Really neat climbing. EMT
Joined Jan 13, 2008
276 points
Nov 19, 2009
me and the sentinel....
wow... the excuses people come up with to argue about sport vs. trad... the reason i posted this thread in the first place is that there are never threads that interest me on the sport side of things... if this turns out to be an arguement of whats cooler it will have missed the point compleatly...

i dont know what my most memorable sport climb is for sure...

Aquarius 5.12d- went down easier than i thought it would and was really fun to climb...
lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Joined Jan 10, 2007
19,319 points
Nov 19, 2009
Mountain Bike Action!
Defenseless Betty at Rifle.

This is a really fun and continuous 11d/12a, certainly not the hardest route I ever did but there were extenuating circumstances...

I remember getting up this thing clean, clawing tooth and nail and feeling like it threw everything but the kitchen sink at me...but I made it and I came down with a huge smile and a wicked pump. Great line with immaculate steep limestone and awesome pockets! Beautiful spring day with green trees and blue sky and lots of water in the creek and that perfect 60-something Rifle sending temperature.

Then my good buddy Patrick was up next and he made it up like 2/3 of the way and then got suckered out left and was too pooped to get back in the bolt line. So he followed a line of weakness and kept trying to lean right to clip but couldn't quite reach the bolt, shaking like a leaf on a tree all the way.

Finally he gives up and skips that bolt and follows the unprotected line of weakness up another 6-8 feet. Keeps leaning right to try to clip the next bolt, pulling up gobs of slack between his legs, but everytime he leans he starts to shake and swear. Animal noises coming from his throat.

Finally, after struggling for like a full minute to clip and with the biner literally a quarter-inch from the bolt, he peels off and screams and takes a full 40 foot fall. He stops about 15 feet off the ground, and of course since it is Rifle it is so steep he doesn't hit anything.

So I lower him down and he just sits there and shakes for a while, exhausted and a little freaked out, and we were both cracking up. I am so distracted by all this that I pull the rope without warning him, and it comes down and fully whips him right across his shirtless back, leaving a 2 foot long bright red welt that would have made one of these Haji self-flagellators proud.

That's one I will never forget! Get on it!
richard magill
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,678 points
Nov 19, 2009
Time Wave Zero Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
874 points
Nov 19, 2009
Orifice Politics on Mt. Lemmon. Orifice Politics Looked at it for years but didn't work it as the bottom half had been bolted by another climber. After he passed it on I TR'd the top as it was all new (the first was already done and I had that part wired as it was the start of Coup De Tat). I then bolted it and lead it with a toss at the top as I was melting off. Gave it everything I had that day and made it to the anchors. Had to hook my wrists over the finishing jug as I was too pumped to hold on. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,675 points
Nov 19, 2009
At the anchors.
My most memorable sport climb was one I didn't even finish.

A top-rope only girlfriend and I were out exploring a new-for-us area, without any reliable beta. This particular area has a reputation for having a good range of easier climbs on solid, highly-featured rock. As a fairly-new leader, I was just trying to eyeball the stuff I thought I could get up safely.

After we'd spent a couple hours climbing, we ran out of obvious lines and went looking farther back in the canyon. I saw a bolted line up an interesting-looking buttress with a ton of juggy flakes. Perfect!

Did I mention that the bolts were all brand-spaggling new?

I started up the line, and as I got to the first bolt, little bits of rock were coming off. I thought, "No biggie, it's someone's new line that still needs a bit of cleaning." So, I called down to my belayer to watch for kitty litter heading her way.

Around the second bolt, those flakes were getting more and more brittle, so I adjusted my line and worked around the corner from the bolts, where the flakes became crimpers.

Somewhere between the second and third bolts, I realized that I was climbing nothing but layers of dried mud and that bailing before I got any higher was going to be my best bet.

Reluctant to leave any of my brand-new Petzl Spirit draws on some jackass' (as I'd determined by then) crappy route, I clung to the rock trying to figure out the best way to downclimb without killing myself or dropping anything heavy on my patient, but unhelmeted, belayer.

A half hour later, safely back at the car, strangely enough, I was high as a kite! I mean, absolutely euphoric. Never mind the fact that, through my own inexperience and stupidity, I'd gotten myself into a bad spot, I'd gotten myself out of it! That's the moment that I first thought, "You know, I can DO this. I don't have to rely on someone stronger, braver, more experienced than me in order to go out climbing. I'll probably bring better beta from now on, though."

If you've ever climbed with me, you know that I bring so much beta when I climb that the paper in my pack weighs more than my gear. :)
From Duvall, WA
Joined Sep 22, 2008
391 points
Nov 19, 2009
PBR Time at the Creek
Most memorable is a bit difficult, but here are the ones I've thought about the most.

Sinister Dane Socorro NM, Thought this was going to be impossible until I did it.
Goliath Enchanted Tower NM, My longest ever project, and one of the more striking lines in the Southwest.
Bullet the Blue Sky Penitente CO, Striking arete, and blew out my A4 pulley.
Nosferatus EL Salto Mexico, Almost got the onsite, but another one to come back for.
Mercy the Huff RRG KY, simply amazing climbing.
Burnt Offerings - Thailand, OK climbing, amazing position, Last route I tried in Thailand. Grapped a wasp nest in an undercling, got stung, recovered, then fell off after the crux.
Genesis Jack's Canyon AZ, First weekend of leading, didn't really know how to clip yet and chipped front tooth while biting the biner trying to get the rope through.
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Mar 1, 2006
4,853 points
Nov 19, 2009
The blue one with the green stripe. T-Bob
Joined Feb 9, 2006
67 points
Nov 19, 2009
somewhere in WV
Greg D wrote:
But, I bet many of the sport only climbers would love to cross the fence to trad

Funny, most of the sport climbers I know used to climb trad. Most of the fresh out of the gym types I have meet have been on trad routes, I suspect because there are more easy trad routes than easy sport routes. I also tend to suspect this same crowd is largely responsible for the "sport climbing is lame" rants because they have never had the ability to get on any classic sport route. If you think sport climbing is lame, you should stop climbing lame routes.
Brian Adzima
From San Francisco
Joined Sep 3, 2006
638 points

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