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The Rotwand
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Most Honorable Hose Bag 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Pat Ament
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Eric Klammer on Apr 29, 2014

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Ben treading lightly on the final few feet of "Mos...
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Description 

Located less than 100 yards above the lower parking lot, Most Honorable Hose Bag follows a difficult to distinguish, left-rising weakness towards a large groove at the top of the wall. Protection is almost non-existent, with what little found most likely not worthy of holding a fall. I found no pro in the last 35' to 40', with a fall from the top likely a grounder.

Broken rock, difficult route finding, and the scarcity of protection make this route a serious undertaking; however, a confident and experienced Eldo climber should have little trouble. Step lightly, pull gently, and enjoy the "experience" of climbing this route!


Location 

This is directly above the lower parking lot, on the left if driving in. From here, it is best to consult the guidebook as the cliff has few distinguishing features.


Protection 

Very little, a couple of nuts and cams to 1". Long slings are useful for wandering placements and slinging small bushes.



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The pro for the climb, all placed within the first 40-50 feet, none of it great.
The pro for the climb, all placed within the first...
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By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2014

It should also be mentioned that climbing on the lower South Rotwand wall is probably not a great idea when the lower parking lot is full. Approaching the wall, we both sent numerous small rocks down the hill towards the lot below. It could become an expensive (and not to mention dangerous) day very quickly.