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Most favorite beginner routes
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By Lauren Trojan
From Cary, NC
Mar 22, 2011

Hi - I just started trad climbing (think maybe three routes under my belt) -and just for fun was wondering what everyone's favorite beginner routes are? Easy routes (up to 5.8's) that take LOTS of gear!


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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Mar 23, 2011
don't throw rocks

where in the country are you looking for routes?


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By Reece Henson
From Knoxville, TN
Mar 23, 2011
Photo by Paul Hassell

doesn't take a ton of gear, but the daddy, mummy, and prow in linville gorge are a really good intro to multipitch


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By kwyatt
From NC
Mar 23, 2011
SR Edge

I like and I'm still kind of young at it.

Shiprock, NC - Edge of a Dream 5.7 - Lost at Sea 5.8

Looking Glass Rock, NC - Anything on the Southside - The Nose 5.8

Tablerock, NC - Peek a Boo 5.5 i think nm gear but fun - North Ridge is good as well.


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By ChanVan
Mar 23, 2011
hello

Zoo View at Moore's Wall- best 5.7+ in the universe IMHO. Also be sure to do Wailing Wall- ultra classic 5.6, and Almost Seven (aka Golden Earing)- great 5.7

Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald is another awesome 5.7+

The Mummy and/or the Daddy at the Amphitheater in Linville Gorge- sick 5.6's- both are a wee bit heads up.

Once you do all these you should be ready to step it up a notch.


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By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Mar 23, 2011
Where? Wouldn't you like to know. You have to buy me a beer, then I will tell you.

"27 years of Climbing"
Sport Route: 5.8+
The Gallery in RRG. One of the best moderates I've ever done.
The Red has cracks and sport of all levels.
Good luck, wish I had more for you.


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By Lauren Trojan
From Cary, NC
Mar 23, 2011

Kevin - Looking for anywhere in the country - making my first year tick list :)

Chan and kwyatt - Fruit Loops and Peek a boo were my first two routes - super fun! So glad I let my friend lead P2 of Peek a Boo

Have you guys done any routes at the NRG?


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By Andrew Blease
From 4runner, parking lot, USA
Mar 23, 2011

Stone Mountain: U Slot 5.7, Block Route 5.8,
Looking Glass: The Nose 5.8, Sundial Crack 5.8, Second Coming 5.7, Short Man's Sorrow 5.6,
Rumbling Bald: Bear Hunt 5.7, The Gift 5.7, Gift Certificate 5.8, Bee Tree 5.5, Comatose 5.8, Granola 5.8+,
For what it's worth this is a list of my favorite moderates near WCU.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Mar 23, 2011
tanuki

easily flakey 5.5? at NRG

there is almost always a line on the weekends for a reason. It is a blast and protects really well.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Mar 23, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

If you find yourself in the Gunks - Minty.

Best beta ever - Yes, you have to step out on the face. - Thanks Dolgio!


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By thomas ellis
From abq
Mar 23, 2011
Mint jullop

Son of EasyO. Done in one pitch and it could be one of my favorite routes ever. You may want to do a few other lines at the Gunks first to get used to the style of climbing but if you go make sure not to miss this gem.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Mar 24, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

thomas ellis wrote:
Son of EasyO. Done in one pitch and it could be one of my favorite routes ever. You may want to do a few other lines at the Gunks first to get used to the style of climbing but if you go make sure not to miss this gem.


I think Son of Easy O deserves it's 5.8 rating. P2 has very so-so feet in my opinion. I don't think that would be a good choice for a new leader that has three routes total under his belt.

Just my opinion, though, and I am a crappy climber, so I am sure that colors my perceptions.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Mar 24, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:
I think Son of Easy O deserves it's 5.8 rating. P2 has very so-so feet in my opinion. I don't think that would be a good choice for a new leader that has three routes total under his belt. Just my opinion, though, and I am a crappy climber, so I am sure that colors my perceptions.


Scratch that, I just checked out OP's ticklist, and she leads 5.12 on sport, so this shouldn't be a problem.


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By Ty Meadows
From Moab, UT
Mar 24, 2011
hellvis

"Stuart's Arete" in Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. It's a 3 pitch 5.8 that will take alot of pro and the view at the top is pretty sweet.


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By Brett Jarrett
From Milton, WV
Mar 24, 2011
Four Sheets

Here is a link to a thread I had a while back... Very thorough list of recommended beginner trad leads in NRG at the bottom of the first page by Sam Stephens. Should be pretty helpful if you're heading to WV.

'standard rack' question


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 24, 2011
El Chorro

Pretty much anything at Moore's Wall. It's a fantastic place to learn how to climb (and my favorite area in the world, for real). And it's easily a day trip from Cary. Also recommend Cereal Butress at the Bald. Don't lay the cracks back like most people, but learn how to lock and jam. Then get to the Gorge. Ampitheater for the Mummy, the Daddy, and the Prow. White Lightening at Table Rock is a good test for a 5.8 climber (the first pitch corner is harder than the 2nd pitch roof). Maginot Line at Shortoff is excellent as well.

If you can deal with the steepness and sometimes funky gear at Moores, climb cracks at Cereal Butress, and handle the approach and exposure at the Ampitheater and Shortoff then you are well on your way to becoming a solid climber.

I'm jealous. Have fun!


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Mar 24, 2011
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

Gamesmanship @ Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks
Pete's Farewell @ Pitchoff Chimney Cliff in the Adirondacks
Frog's Head @ the Gunks
Disneyland @ the Gunks
5 Gallon Buckets @ Smith Rock, OR
Funhouse @ Cathedral Ledge, NH
Clip-a-de-do-dah @ Rumney, NH


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By John Farrell
From Phoenix, AZ
Mar 25, 2011
Chilling on Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghold.

Lauren Trojan wrote:
Hi - I just started trad climbing (think maybe three routes under my belt) -and just for fun was wondering what everyone's favorite beginner routes are? Easy routes (up to 5.8's) that take LOTS of gear!


What's My Line (5.6) - Cochise Stronghold, AZ
www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/cochise_stronghold/cochise>>>

That's my favorite 5.6 I have been up. The A0 part is what makes it fun, you'll need to read the description.

I have too many moderates to list that I have really enjoyed in Red Rock, Nevada. Life time of fun climbing there.


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By Jason N.
From Grand Junction
Mar 27, 2011
Indy pass

I would be interested in some guidance in this area as well, except for in western Colorado/eastern Utah.


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By Brian Snider
From NorCal
Mar 27, 2011
Me

Just did my first multi pitch a couple of months ago, and damn she,s a good one. Toll House Treverse Well protected, 3-4 pitches with some exciting cruxes, and not a busy route.

THT
THT


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By Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
Mar 27, 2011
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

ChanVan wrote:
Zoo View at Moore's Wall- best 5.7+ in the universe IMHO. Also be sure to do Wailing Wall- ultra classic 5.6, and Almost Seven (aka Golden Earing)- great 5.7 Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald is another awesome 5.7+ The Mummy and/or the Daddy at the Amphitheater in Linville Gorge- sick 5.6's- both are a wee bit heads up. Once you do all these you should be ready to step it up a notch.

+1 with a big emphasis on ZOO VIEW! I would agree its the best 7 in the universe. Moores Wall is sick! Golden earing and wailing wall are also great routes.


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By Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Mar 27, 2011
crack at undisclosed location - my little proj

Seneca Rocks treated me well with some good beginner routes. I loved Ecstasy Jr. 5.4(and Ecstasy, though considerably more difficult - 5.7). Green Wall was my first trad lead (5.7)and I scared the hell out of me the first time. Went back and did it again years later - still super fun. Lots of great routes in Seneca.


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By saxfiend
Administrator
From Decatur, GA
Mar 27, 2011
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald.

Call me overly cautious if you want, but I really have to wonder what people are thinking when they mention routes like Son of Easy O and Zoo View in the same breath with "beginner routes." The OP may be a high-grade sport climber, but leading on gear is a whole other ball game no matter how hard you climb. You really need to have all your systems dialed in before you get on most of the routes that have been mentioned, and having three trad leads under your belt isn't enough.

Those of us in Georgia are painfully aware of a young guy who was a 5.11-5.12 sport leader and paid the ultimate price on his first and only trad lead at Tallulah Gorge.

JL


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By Edward Medina
Administrator
From Brighton, CO
Mar 27, 2011
The FA of Full Scholarship

I'll give you the stuff closest to you first. Moore's Wall is a great resource for the beginning trad leader. Zoo View and Wailing Wall are awesome, but also get on Air Show (5.8+) Sustained, but well protected at the cruxes. Shithook(5.8+) - Tricky nuts down low, but very fun. Stone Mountain probably doesn't fit your criteria for 'LOTS of gear' except for the Great Arch. Crowder's Mountain is better known for it's topropes and sport climbs, but it has a few worthy trad moderates. Caterpillar (5.7) is a really long chimney with good gear throughout. Ooga Chocka (5.8) is a gorgeous dihedral to a finger crack. Rumbling Bald is next closest. Lots of good lines at the Cereal Buttress, Obamanation (5.8+) is a newer line that has lots of gear. 5.8 Crack over at the Test Pilots area is a nice fist crack that eats large cams.


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By Peter Pitocchi
Mar 27, 2011
Pete belays 2nd pitch Little corner

Twall Nutrasweet 5.7 single pitch great pro if you have lots of hand size pieces. T wall would be my first choice many moderate well protected single pitch. Plus its basically cracks which you will need to get mileage on if you're getting into trad


The Mummy 5.6 at Linville is great but does include a semi-hanging belay

Northridge is a great multipitch 5.5 at Linville is superb fun and well-protected

Little Corner 5.6 at Shortoff is three pitches with good pro throughout

I agree with Saxfiend to keep the grades light at first. Why not?


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By BSU_Zac
From Cedar City, UT
Mar 28, 2011
Little Black Dike, February 2013

I agree with peter on nutrasweet.
would add roadside attraction 5.7 RRG

I'd just suggest a trip out to twall or the red. Both have incredible trad climbing and are generally easy to protect and lack the NC runout


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