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Most Durable 9.4-9.5 Rope
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By bearbreeder
Jul 19, 2014
Any thin rope can wear out quickly and blow apart depending on the circumstances

Theres tons of folks that swear that their brand XXX rope blew apart, ive posted about that myself

Which is why if you want "durable" you the a thicker rope with a higher sheath %

Case in point ... Ive found maxims the MOST durable of ropes, and i dont even like em because of their higher impact forces ... Weve used and abused my partners gliders/pinnacles for years and they keep on ticking ... While some folks here have issues with em

Personally ive always found mammuts and maxims to be tops for abrasion resistance over yets of use

;)

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Jul 21, 2014
Zappatista wrote:
I had a sterling ion 9.4 wear out in less than a dozen pitches, see my thread "fastest rope retirement so far". I have a seven year old 9.4 dominator made by Bluewater that has several hundred pitches under it's belt, dozens of falls, and now is used as a haul line for walling, still not even a glimpse of core after 50 hauls over coarse sandstone. I have had static lines that wore out more quickly. The Eliminators last for years, the 10.5s are downright indestructible. I had a maxim 10.5 saw halfway through while I rapped down to replace some old bolts past a somewhat sharp roof. Based on my experiences, I'd say that Bluewater ropes are ahead of the pack for durability. Way ahead. The fastest rope retirement I've had with a BW was sub-200 pitches with a 9.7 that I beat the hell out of. Not too shabby. The Sterling Ion has a decent hand, but I think the Dominator (and now the new Wave, most likely, as well) has a really nice hand to it, one of the more pleasant ropes to use, up there with the Evolution Velocity and Edelrid Boa, both really good, pliable cords. Ryan, I enjoy reading your posts and am curious about the Mammut incidents. Post up, I'm betting that's a better story than anything else on this thread.


That's a fair point about the blue water 10.5 accelerator. I had one that was my exclusive rope at a sharp highly abrasive volcanic crag, putting up routes and it withstood more than normal abuse for several seasons. But, I haven't bought a 10.5 in a long time.

One of the reasons I am a fan of the sterlings is they maintain their springiness. I have a 7 or 8 year old 9.8 velocity that was a great rope, that I have now chopped down like 6 times to 120'. It's fuzzed up, beat to hell but still good for short pitches at the local pile, minitraxing and new routing. And the thing still has a ton of bounce left in it. catches are still soft, you still have to pull stretch out of the rope when taking. by contrast, my old 9.4 dominator had very little stretch left by the end.

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By Stone Nude
Jul 21, 2014
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
Fair enough on the stretchiness factor. I think of Sterlings as really soft, spongy ropes, while Bluewaters feel very balanced and tightly woven without feeling stiff or cable-like as many maxims do, as BB pointed out above.

Again, after finally being able to core shot my Dominator after years of abuse, it now works as a haul line for sandstone big walling.

I'm not into the mini-T solitude thing, I'd much rather feel light and free and go up many pitches. For what you're using it for, the Sterling sounds great. I've really enjoyed my Ev Velocities as well but wouldn't choose them over an Edelrid Boa for the prices I've seen. You should check that rope out, you might really like it. I bought 3 9.8/ from sterling, a 60 for $100, another 60 for about the same, and an 80 bicolor doubledry for $165. Couldn't resist. I might buy another one someday if I find a great deal but the kind of stuff I like to do mostly favors the very light or very heavy duty ropes, I don't use the midrange sizes as much.

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By RockinGal
From Boulder CO
Jul 21, 2014
I just bought a Mammut 9.5 70mm Infinity. I think that was a smart move after reading this thread.

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By OAW
Jul 22, 2014
Me too. We shall see...

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Jul 22, 2014
OAW wrote:
My last 3 ropes have been the 70m Maxim 9.5 Pinnacle and have resulted in core shots in the first week of use. Overall the fibers of the entire sheath fray under normal appropriate use from the first use alone. I will give updates from time to time on the Mammut. Thanks again for all the opinions! Matt

I own five Maxim ropes, three of which are Pinnacles, and all five of them have lasted forever. I whip on them like it's my job and they still hold up. I even climbed El Cap on one of them. Hands down one of my favorite ropes on the market.

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By OAW
Jul 23, 2014
Not sure what to say... Maybe just bad luck on my part... Oh well... Thanks for the opinion though!

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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Jul 25, 2014
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-f...
+1 on the Mammut 9.5 Infinity. I really like that it's not as stretchy or soft as the Sterling 9.2 nano - For heavier climbers, I think the lower stretch is helpful. Also I like the slightly stiffer feel for clipping.

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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Oct 26, 2014
Looking for a new rope. Seems there are a couple different lines of infinity: the classic series and the more expensive dry and duodess series.

I don't need dry treatment for wet circumstances, but looks like the dry rope also has somewhat different specs/construction. Concerning the rope wear issue, anyone know if the classic holds up as well?

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By OAW
Oct 27, 2014
My personal opinion and based off only my experience(climbing for 18yrs) is that ropes that are treated tend to last longer and maintain their original integrity longer than non-dry ropes. Again this is anecdotal on my part. Keep it clean, wash it from time to time, watch how it runs over rock...

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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Oct 27, 2014
Thanks but really looking for direct experience/knowledge with the Infinity classic, especially any direct comparison to the dry.

But, how's your dry infinity working out compared to the maxims?

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 27, 2014
mountainhick wrote:
Thanks but really looking for direct experience/knowledge with the Infinity classic, especially any direct comparison to the dry.


I cant recall if I purchased the dry or classic Infinity all those years ago- more than likely it was the classic. Easily the most durable rope I ever owned- as I mentioned in my comment above.

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By redlude97
Oct 27, 2014
John Wilder wrote:
I cant recall if I purchased the dry or classic Infinity all those years ago- more than likely it was the classic. Easily the most durable rope I ever owned- as I mentioned in my comment above.

The classic has only been around for a few years so it was probably the dry.

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By Stephen Minchin
Oct 28, 2014
Huh - I had the exact same experience with my Sterling being a filth magnet. Weirdest thing, and washing it just resulted in, er, cleaner filth all over my hands. Ended up retiring it because everyone refused to climb on it.

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Oct 28, 2014
Middle
mountainhick wrote:
Looking for a new rope. Seems there are a couple different lines of infinity: the classic series and the more expensive dry and duodess series. I don't need dry treatment for wet circumstances, but looks like the dry rope also has somewhat different specs/construction. Concerning the rope wear issue, anyone know if the classic holds up as well?


I have an older dry Duodess. Great rope, I've worn out several ropes since I bought it.

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By Andy Nelson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 28, 2014
another day in the park
I use the Trango Diamond - from everything to multi-pitch granite to mixed/ice.

rockandice.com/lates-news/tran...

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By Moritz B.
Oct 28, 2014
Profile Pic
Edelrid Eagle Light 9.5 is super duper durable.
dpmclimbing.com/climbing-gear/...

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