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Most Durable 9.4-9.5 Rope
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By OAW
Jul 8, 2014
Whats your opinion on the most durable 9.4-9.5 dynamic rope on the market now? Brand and style... Go!!!

Thanks,

Matt

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By JeffL
From Salt Lake City
Jul 8, 2014
I've had the mammut infinity going on 2 years now. It's a 9.5 70m and I love it. The only thing I would change is to pay the extra 30 bucks or whatever and get the duodess or whatever they call their bipattern. My middle marker wore off in less than 30 sessions.

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Jul 8, 2014
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
I thought the score had been settled: Sterling Ion 9.4 Bi-Pattern.

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By JJNS
Jul 8, 2014
I'm a huge fan of the Edelweiss Energy 9.5. I've had the same one for over two years now and it just won't die. I'm usually really good about washing my ropes a bunch to get the most out of them but I've probably only washed this one once. The sheath pattern is one over one construction which contributes to it's durability and also makes for silky smooth handling. Pick one up! You won't regret it.

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By redlude97
Jul 8, 2014
+1 for the mammut infinity.

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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Jul 8, 2014
Approach to Whitney
Mammut Infinity with duodess x 1

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By snowhazed
From Oakland, Ca
Jul 8, 2014
OW builds character or something
yup mammut infinity, although for 80M I recommend Bluewater Hyalite

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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Jul 8, 2014
another day in RMNP
yep, another vote for Mammut Infinity Duodess. The Ion does has really nice action, though.

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By Sean Brokaw
From Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2014
Personal photo
I love the mammut infinity. For such a skinny rope it feels surprisingly durable due to it's solid sheath. Easier for me to untie after falling on it then a lot of other skinny ropes that I've used.

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By Nick Votto
Jul 8, 2014
Bolton, VT
Another fan of the Mammut Infinity here, best rope I've owned in 17 years of climbing...

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By germsauce
Jul 8, 2014
Hippos kill people
+1 for Edelweiss Energy. But get the dry-coated one- and likely get the bi-pattern as well unless you are just a sport climber. i bought the non drycoat and the drycoat at the same time to have 2 ropes, the dry coat looks almost new and i've used it probably 2x's as much- the other rope is still ok but looks like it's been pretty well used.

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By bearbreeder
Jul 8, 2014
Mammut infinities are fairly durable ropes

The downside is that they get a bit stiff after a few hundred pitches

Same as all mammuts

I own and use em

;)

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By Mannamedstan
From Encinitas, CA
Jul 8, 2014
Castleton North Chimney
I have a sterling cause they clip and feel the best on your hand.

Infinitiy 80m is a lightweight durable rope, and has held up well against JTree grit. It's not as friendly in the hand as the Sterling in my opinion.

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By Baumer
From Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2014
Easy Lieback
+ (another) 1 for Mammut Infinity Duodess. Best-handling and most durable rope I've used. I've had mine for two years of fairly heavy use and it still probably has another year left. The Teflon coating also seems to keep it cleaner than other ropes I've owned.

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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Jul 8, 2014
I use both Mammut Infinity (x2) and Sterling ion2. They are both fine ropes and quite durable for their diameter. The Mammut is a bit more durable and stiffer, but it's also noticeably heavier (it weighs more than 58g/M for sure, probably closer to 60g/M, even factoring in the longer than advertised length). If you are looking for bi-pattern and dry coating, the Infinity is probably the one to get (I don't like the lumpy air-spliced bi-color Sterling uses), otherwise, seems like the ion2 is easier to find discounted.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jul 8, 2014
While I do agree the Mammut 9.5mm Infinity is probably the most durable rope at the diameter (and a very good line at that), like Andy, I climb on the Sterling Ion2, as I prefer the hand of the rope, and the bi-color is awesome.

That Infinity is a beast, though- it was my first 9.5mm line back in 2006, I used it until 2009 full-time, then had a few other ropes so I gave it to a friend who beat the crap out of it in Yosemite doing big walls (in a day) for another couple seasons. Damn thing held up like a 10.2mm or better. Definitely an impressive line. That said, Mammut 'rounds down' with their diameters, so the Infinity is really a 9.7mm line in disguise (you can vary your line diameter by .2mm under UIAA/CE standards).

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By TheHobbyist
From Aspen, CO
Jul 9, 2014
I love my 60m Infinity. The downside is that I can't find a 70m in duodess for a decent price.

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By OAW
Jul 14, 2014
Thank you so much for taking the time to help me make a clear and informed decision. I decided to go with the Mammut 9.5 Infinity with the coating. If it works out well you will not hear from me, but if it doesn't...

Thanks,

Matt

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By Cultivating Mass
Jul 14, 2014
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Andy Hansen wrote:
I thought the score had been settled: Sterling Ion 9.4 Bi-Pattern.


Nope. See my post "fastest rope retirement ever". That exact rope, vato.

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By OAW
Jul 15, 2014
My last 3 ropes have been the 70m Maxim 9.5 Pinnacle and have resulted in core shots in the first week of use. Overall the fibers of the entire sheath fray under normal appropriate use from the first use alone. I will give updates from time to time on the Mammut. Thanks again for all the opinions!

Matt

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By Cultivating Mass
Jul 15, 2014
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Yeah, I've had shitty luck with maxims too. Climbing a lot on a Bluewater Dominator 9.4, had a few of them and they tend to last a really long time, though I don't abuse them like I do the 10 mils. The Ions seem to burn up quickly for me, haven't had an opportunity to work extensively with an Infinity or the Energy, though I've used my partners' and found them both decent on first glance.

Based on my experiences, I'm excited to get one of the new 9.3 Waves by Bluewater. I bought an Icon and it's been a really nice rope so far, has 30 pitches on it and looks brand new, even after catching a couple gnarly falls and a lot of rappelling over rough sandstone. With the quality that Bluewater puts out, I bet that 9.3 is going to be diesel.

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By Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Jul 18, 2014
Leading the 3rd pitch of West Side Story.
The Edelweiss ropes have always seemed to be bomber. I've been using them for more than 20 years, and they just hold up to abuse pretty well. I've always gone for the variety that is sharp-edge resistant, like the Sharp or more recently the Extrem. These ropes are able to resist a factor 2 fall on a sharp edge with a radius of 0.75mm. This equates in my mind to durability. They also handle really well.

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Jul 18, 2014
Always surprised to see anyone recommend a blue water for performance! Price maybe... But longevity? Hah!

Sterling is my vote.

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By Brad Zwart
From South Dakota
Jul 19, 2014
Brad on Old English V4
+1 Mammut Infinity bi-pattern

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jul 19, 2014
El Chorro
I used to swear by Sterling Ropes but every one I had seemed to turn my hands black. Didn't matter what device I used, which kind of rope, dry or not. Even new "clean" ropes were doing this and I had friends that had the same complaint so I just stopped buying them. Also, I wore out my Evo 9.8 faster than I would have thought.

I've had the Edelrid Falcon for a while now and it is awesome. Still looks and feels new. 9.4 I think, but doesn't feel quite as thin as a 9.4 I had from Maxim.

I don't buy anything from Mammut after a personal issue I had with some of their climbers and others in the company, but I have to admit they make good ropes.

Shame the American brands aren't better, but that's reality.

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By Cultivating Mass
Jul 19, 2014
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
caughtinside wrote:
Always surprised to see anyone recommend a blue water for performance! Price maybe... But longevity? Hah! Sterling is my vote.


I had a sterling ion 9.4 wear out in less than a dozen pitches, see my thread "fastest rope retirement so far". I have a seven year old 9.4 dominator made by Bluewater that has several hundred pitches under it's belt, dozens of falls, and now is used as a haul line for walling, still not even a glimpse of core after 50 hauls over coarse sandstone. I have had static lines that wore out more quickly. The Eliminators last for years, the 10.5s are downright indestructible. I had a maxim 10.5 saw halfway through while I rapped down to replace some old bolts past a somewhat sharp roof.

Based on my experiences, I'd say that Bluewater ropes are ahead of the pack for durability. Way ahead. The fastest rope retirement I've had with a BW was sub-200 pitches with a 9.7 that I beat the hell out of. Not too shabby. The Sterling Ion has a decent hand, but I think the Dominator (and now the new Wave, most likely, as well) has a really nice hand to it, one of the more pleasant ropes to use, up there with the Evolution Velocity and Edelrid Boa, both really good, pliable cords.

Ryan, I enjoy reading your posts and am curious about the Mammut incidents. Post up, I'm betting that's a better story than anything else on this thread.

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