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Mossy Ledges Area
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Barking Dog, The 
Boldness, The 
Cheatstone Crack 
Chocolate Sunday 
Coronary Bypass 
CU on Top 
Hookers and blow. 
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip 
Numic Warrior 
Pincushion 
Pussy Nuts 
Rapper's Disappointment 
Roberto Duran 
Secret Ingredient 
Soylent Green Jeans 
Stirling Moss 

Mossy Ledges Area 


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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: An overview of the main landmarks in the Mossy Led...

Description 

This is best known as area of Soylent Green Jeans and Stirling Moss. Although there are several excellent climbs on these cliffs, they have not seen a lot of recent action. A number of bolts and old pitons in the area testify to unrecorded climbing activity over the span of decades. Most of the route names and FA details are lost to the ages, but were probably the work of the usual suspects who were active in the 70s and 80s. Kevin Lowell is also thought to have put up some of the early routes. Most of the routes in this area face to the north and are climbable in warm weather.


The general layout is as follows:

The leftmost section is the alcove with Soylent Green Jeans. This area is just around the corner to the right of the Case Face. It is easily identifiable by the two large pine trees at the base of the cliffs. There is a rappel station immediately above C.U. Up Top which allows descent with a single rope. A scrambling descent can be made a little further to the left. Just above the vegetated area at the top of Soylent Green Jeans, a highly featured slab leads up 150 feet to the next level. This slab can be used to approach (or descend from) the Cheatstone Crack or the Egg.

To the right of the Soylent Green Jeans alcove is a broad, featured buttress with what appears to be a huge hanging block on its right side. A smaller, mini-buttress lies against the face below and right of the hanging block.

To the right of the Hanging Block Buttress, the face becomes taller, and features some areas of good rock mixed in with some heavily moss-covered stone. Above the level of this face, the topography becomes more confused, but good climbing is to be found on the Cheatstone Crack, and historical significance on the Egg.

Descent from the upper levels is probably easiest by scrambling to a rappel from a tree atop the featured slab just above Soylent Green Jeans. From the big ledge at the top of the Hanging Block, you can rappel from either of two bolted stations, one at the top of Coronary Bypass, the other on top of Hundred-Foot Stick Clip.


Getting There 

Drive in on the main Willow Springs road. This road runs northwest until the pavement ends near the main picnic area. Just upstream from the Case Face, a small canyon branches off to the left and leads west beneath some good cliffs. Park in this area and walk across the main wash to enter the small canyon. After just a short distance you can head up the hillside to the base of the wall. A scrambling approach can also be made from the area of the Case Face.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mossy Ledges Area:
Coronary Bypass   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet   
CU on Top   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Roberto Duran   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Secret Ingredient   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   
Chocolate Sunday   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   
Pincushion   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
Rapper's Disappointment   5.9 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Barking Dog   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Cheatstone Crack   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Numic Warrior   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
Soylent Green Jeans   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Stirling Moss   5.10 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   
Browse More Classics in Mossy Ledges Area

Featured Route For Mossy Ledges Area
Onsight ascent of Stirling Moss....... a kabillion years ago - enjoy!

Stirling Moss 5.10 R  NV : Red Rock : ... : Mossy Ledges Area
Thin, heady, and varied-- a sustained tick that probably edges further into sandbag territory every time someone climbs it and wears away at the tiny fragile holds. THIN slab to groany flake to odd mostly horizontal moves out a steep section to chossish finishing face (easier). Way more classic than I could describe. A window back in time when balls and mind control made you a climber worth respecting, not who pays you to wear their shoes. When placing a bolt meant you NEEDED it, not because it ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Mossy Ledges Area Slideshow Add Photo
Green=Stirling Moss; Orange=Soylent Greenjeans; Red=Rappers Disappointment; Blue=CU on top

BETA PHOTO: Green=Stirling Moss; Orange=Soylent Gree...

Soylent Green Jeans area. Belay ledge marked.

BETA PHOTO: Soylent Green Jeans area. Belay ledge marked.

The key features on the right (western) side of the Mossy Ledges area.

BETA PHOTO: The key features on the right (western) side of th...

Descent options in the Mossy Ledges area.

BETA PHOTO: Descent options in the Mossy Ledges area.