This a very fun crag filled with well bolted moderate sport routes just up the road from Stone Garden. The wall ranges from slabby to vertical with various bulges and small roofs. The left side is short, the right side is tall with climbs looking to be about 70 feet or so. Even though I was told it's called the Mosquito Wall, we only tussled with one mosquito the day we were there.
Routes from left to right, according to Dan Zobell: Princess Sophia 5.6 Krull the Warrior King 5.6 Sponge Bob 5.7 Papa Smurf 5.8 Scrappy Doo 5.9 Slow Dance with Liberty 5.10A or B Saturday the 14th 5.10 Friday the 13th 5.9 unknown Darren Knezek, Jeff Baldwin? 5.10 unknown Darren Knezek, Jeff Baldwin? 5.10 Poker Face 5.10C BitzKreig 5.9 One Piece Puzzle 5.9 Waking up in Vegas 5.8 far right Rusty Shacklefords Tower 5.9
From the Stone Garden pullout with the big rock, go to the very next pullout on the right hand side (if you are heading north). It's large and not very far up. Get out of you car and cross the street looking for the cement culvert on the west side of the road. 100 feet past the culvert, on the west side of the road, you will see a cairn marking the start of the trail. Follow cairns through the trees to the crag. It's about a 10 minute hike.
At the start I climbed up on the ledge to the right of the route and reached over left to clipped the first bolt by my feet. Not sure if this would be the normal way to start this route? Anyway, move onto the face and go up through a bulge and couple of small roofs using horizontal crack jugs and good crimps with pretty good feet most of the time. I found a cruxy section in the middle and another crux pulling up to the anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Climbed here on 8/20/11. Fun little area containing mostly beginner to moderate sport routes. A few routes are a bit gritty and/or have thorny bushes on ledges, but most should clean-up with increased traffic. A nice place to warm-up or cool-down at the end of the day or to take beginners to. Mosquitos can be thick at the end of the day on the right-hand side of the cliff line.
This wall is really fun, it used to be my kids favorite. I do have to admit that Rustys Tower is one of my favs, has a little bit of every kind of hold, yet not super challenging, one of those you can just relax and have fun. Kids and I actually made a game of who could get the craziest heal hold while picking a raspberry from the raspberry bush growing out of a crack about halfway up. This wall is great for kids. It starts with a couple of 5.6 on the far left, and gets harder as you move right. This is where both of my kids did their first leads and cleans, and since the rock also lends itself to pro, we will go back this next season to work on belay stations in a more controlled environment. Great wall for that kind of stuff.