L to R R to L Alpha
Right on the S Fork of the American River, under the Mosquito Bridge. Solid, extremely smooth water polished granite. 30-40 feet high, mostly overhanging, difficult cracks of all sizes. Many newer anchors on the top of the cliff, sometimes a little hairy to get to. A lot of superb bouldering along the base of the cliff: landings are hard so a pad is nearly a must. In summer, best to climb in early am or in evening: days are very hot. Fall, winter, spring: daytime best, after the sun gets down in there to dry off the dew. Winter can be very cold and icy, spring run off can make it impossible to climb: water level has been seen to the top of the cliff.
Driving east on Hy50, exit on the Broadway off-ramp in Placerville. Go right, then right again back under the freeway overpass. Just before get on the westbound on-ramp, turn left onto Mosquito Road. Follow Mosquito Road to the top of the ridge, where it turns left off Union Ridge Road. This narrow, windy road descends all the way to the bridge. 20mins-30mins from Placerville. Parking is the main problem. It is best to park in the last turnout before reaching the bridge. This is a wide spot with a retaining wall on the outside and a creek on the uphill. Turn around in this wide area and park facing uphill. There is a lot of traffic on this road, it is very narrow, and the locals are very grumpy about being delayed. You would be too if you had to commute up and down this road every day. Walk down to the bridge. You can drop down under the bridge and hop boulders across up river when the water is low. Otherwise, go to the north side and either rappell off anchors along the cliff top or walk around the top of the bridge abuttment and follow a poison oak strewn game trail to the east that descends to a gravel bar.
15 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Mosquito Coast
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mosquito Coast:
bouldering circuit V2 5+ Trad, Boulder
White Water Traverse V5 6c Boulder, 45'
Mr. Mustard 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Hermit Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Twist and Shout 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Susan Forever 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Straight Lines 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Ant Line 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Fly the Friendly Skies 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Boot Licker 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Antline Boulder Problem 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b V4 6b TR, Boulder, 20'
Featured Route For Mosquito Coast
White Water Traverse V5 6c CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Mosquito Coast
Distinct crux sections on this traverse are encountered going into and coming out of both the central and west alcoves. Each alcove provides options to either remain low and underneath a roof, or reach out of the roof and climb the lip/roof edge. All options end high and work back down on 5.10+ terrain. It is possible to traverse from left to right, but the standard traverse starts upstream and traverses to the left. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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