|4,499 page views|
This is a well-protected beginning lead route. Belay from under the obvious tree and scramble up the class 4 to the base of the right face at the dihedral. Move up and step onto the face, and follow the bolts up, staying on the right side of them.
9 bolts to a 2 chain anchor just off the top of the face. We recommend a 60m rope for this route.
Great winter Boulder Canyon sport route.
The route from the anchors.
what a great route! taken on 3-5-07
Ryan about to start his rappel. Great Route!
|Comments on Mosquito Burrito
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 1, 2001
Again what is up with the undergrading at this site? At the very least, even by Eldo standards this is 5.9. Very few 5.8 leaders will hike up the first 10 feet of this route without trouble. After the start, the grade is much more reasonable.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 1, 2001
The new Rolofson book say that if you follow this route up on the right of the bolts (kind of using the arete) then it goes at 5.9. If, on the other hand, you climb directly up the bolt line its a 5.10a/b. The route is called Mosquito Burrito (I think). Either way, it's a great climb and harder than 5.8. I found myself edging to the right (easier 5.9 territory) and would agree with the 9 grade.
|By Michael Komarnitsky|
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2001
First, would you add your name? It's a lot better to know who I'm talking to. I'm not sure what it's rated in the new book, but it's "severely" slabby. The moves take a little bit to figure out, but you could basically take a nap up there on any of the moves - it's so flat.
|By Mark Ferguson|
Jun 26, 2001
The 5.8 rating for this climb is right on. If anything, it is easier than 5.8.
|By Jon Grayson|
Mar 27, 2002
Actually, it feels like 4th class...except if you follow the bolt line and keep your hands/feet off anything big, then it feels like 10a. I would NOT call this a 'good beginner's lead' though since a bit of technique is required, including keeping the rope from behind your legs (a common beginner mistake). Any fall on the 'lower angle slab', especially w/o a helmet, could be fatal.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2002
Pulling direct through the overhang Right of the bolts was a 5.10a power move. The guys on this prior to me called this a boulder-problem variation.
Coming in from the left on the start felt about 5.8. For my own part, I got on the route and was amazed at the friction I was getting on the smears- it is some of the best around!
As for this being a great beginner lead, I've taught literally 100's of people to climb... I am used to beginners leading. I put a novice leader on it last night (a 5.9+ climber) who on-sighted the climb as one of his first-ever leads. There seems to be very little chance or fear of serious consequence, even if the leader fails on the route at any point.
The bolts are spaced so close he could have Z-clipped, so it seams reasonably safe. I did yell at him twice about getting his feet in the rope (he immediately moved both times). Seems about par for the course.
I had not read these comments prior to climbing the route and I consider my opinions to be formed on my own.
Oct 24, 2002
The rating pretty much depends on the line you decide to take and how much of the seam you decide to use. My buddy thought the 10a cruxes were near the last bolt and just below the ledge based on the line he took. Based on what I did I thought it was 9+ish, just below the ledge.It's all a matter of degrees.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 11, 2003
These anchors are starting to wear down. Until they get switched it is certainly prudent to TR or lower through your own gear and rap off the anchor when finished.
|By John Riggs|
Apr 19, 2003
I am new to this site and am somewhat confused as to what people mean by "a great beginner lead". I am what I consider to be a beginning leader. Mosquito Burrito was my third lead ever and my first 5.8. This climb was a blast. I found the move from the second to the third bolt to be thought provoking. I needed my left foot to be where my right one was, and spent some time figuring out how I was going to do this. The foothold was there but too small for me to match. I have followed at higher levels and am not sure I would have had the confidence to lead this pitch if I had not done so. The climb is well protected once you clip into the second bolt and bolts are close enough together to give beginning leaders the mental strengh to reach the top.
|By Jonathan. D.|
May 8, 2003
Great Climb. First few moves felt like a 5.9 to me !!!
|By Matt Chan|
From: Denver, CO
Jun 26, 2003
Yep, I'm jumping on the bandwagon and calling it a 5.9 due to the thin moves. After a couple trips up and knowing where the friction lies and the crimps hide, one could argue an 8+ rating. For the onsight though, I'm sticking with .9. Fun route, nonetheless.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2004
Just a fun route. Go do it if in the area. You can certainly make it harder or easier depending on the exact line. If you use the left dihedral to help with the first moves it is a lot easier. If you use the right open corner as you move higher, again much easier. I stuck to following the bolts fairly directly though was forced to move somewhat right of the bolts as i got higher before the big ledge in the middle as i am still fairly new leader. For me felt like a challenging 5.8. but very fun. Just take your time and you will find what you need.
|By Charlie Fried|
From: New York, NY
Jul 3, 2006
This route is awesome. It's a pretty sustained fun climb. The crux is definitely towards the bottom, but easily gotten past. I didn't notice that the anchor was wearing down. It's possible I just looked over it, but could it be that it was fixed?
|By Dave Stewart|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2006
I climbed this today, mainly because I saw a bail 'biner on the 5th (or 6th or 4th?) bolt. Booty! If it is yours, and you can identify it, you can have it back.
|By Matt Gates|
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Aug 13, 2006
Good climb to practice foot work. Definitely more difficult towards the bottom, but the 8 rating is spot on.
|By Mike Jay|
Mar 6, 2007
Great route. The Crux is definitely at the beginning. I made the mistake of using the dihedral crack on the left at first and had to downclimb to reach the bolt I missed. Other than that, the route is great! and the anchor at the top is a little rusted, but definitely in good enough condition. Pretty sustained after the beginning.
May 14, 2007
Rockfall warning! Beware of rock fall at the base of this climb. Sitting on the rock bench, my partner and I barely avoided disaster as several large (50-60 lbs) rock pummeled this area seemingly spontaneously from just right of the anchor. Fortunately no one was hurt, but several of the rocks were definitely widow makers. There was no wind or rain at the time and no one else was around so I have to assume a fair amount of instability above this climb. Use caution!!!
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 12, 2007
I see a lot of these routes being rated for elimination moves, recently.
Betsy and I just did this route, today, and the path of least resistance, which essentially follows the bolt line within a foot or two on either side, is no harder than 5.8. There is no 5.9 or 10 move on the route unless you eliminate the holds. The only local route that I can compare this one to is "Deck Chairs on the Titanic", at Table Mountain, and Titanic is considerably harder at 5.9. And if anyone needs some perspective of what a consensus 10a slab feels like, go do Bolting for Glory, in Eldo.
For beginning leaders, the only clip that concerns me is the second one above the opening roof. It's not a difficult clip, although the feet might feel insecure for a new leader, and blowing it would land you on the low angle slab below. That could be an ankle breaker. Once that bolt is clipped, the rest of the route is "well" protected and enjoyable.
|By D. Shaw|
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a PG13
Ratings are subjective, naturally, and depend on the exact line you choose, your height, etc. But a 5.8 leader would not be happy with a 5.8 rating, I suspect. Definitely harder than the "Bowling ball and chain" route, which is supposedly 10a, but nowhere near as hard as "Splitting Hares," also supposedly 10a/b. Very fun pitch, worth doing, no matter what it is rated.
Apr 25, 2009
What a great climb! Commenting here in part to say that I'm surprised at the 9+ ratings that this is receiving. I'd suggest 8+ ... perhaps 9- at most. To compare to some nearby climbs across the creek at Watermark, it seems to be harder than Road to Isengard (5.8) but slightly easier than The Memory of Trees (5.9).
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2009
I think the 5.9 rating is if you stay left and not use the right crack.
Then it becomes more delicate and extremely enjoyable.
|By Paul Donald Andrews|
From: Nederland, Co.
May 9, 2011
Climbed it yesterday on a beautiful, busy day. We got blown off a couple of harder climbs earlier, and I 'd always wanted to do it. Quality route; 5.8- use caution at the second clip. Really nice slab of rock with some great edges. The anchors may be due for some retrofitting. They are starting to look a little dated. Good lead to start to regain some confidence.
|By Andrew Shoemaker|
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 2, 2011
Could use some new anchors soon. I would recommend rapping off.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 6, 2012
I'd vote for a 5.9 if you go straight up the bolt line. The problem is that you can cheat too easily which downgrades the climb quite a bit.