One word perfectly describes this area: Chosspile. In early Spring it's very nice and sunny, and there are some pretty good routes here that offer a bit of a different flavor than that found throughout most of the Frankenjura. The routes are predominantly moderates, though there are several 8s and a couple of 9-s. The climbing makes much more use of structure than other crags in the Frankenjura which are predominantly moderate areas, meaning the climbing follows slopers, edges and cracks instead of pockets. So a trip here isn't necessarily a waste, but you definitely need to bring a helmet if you choose to come here. This area is sunnier than the Kleinziegenfelder Tal areas and the rock dries more quickly, but it is by no means protected from rain as there are only short sections of overhang on only a couple of the routes.
Mosenberg is to the north of Kleinziegenfeld. From there, continue past the Kleinziegenfelder Tal areas northward to a few buildings (including a restaurant) and 2 roads heading up the hill. Take the 2nd one towards Wallersberg. Continue on the road left up the hill towards Mosenberg. Across from the chapel is a forest road which heads directly to the forest. Park at the little log cabin and hike in the same direction as the road straight into the forest, following the fence to your right. When it goes right, you go right and follow the path downhill which leads you to the Left Formation. The GPS coordinates indicate the parking area.
This one's hard to rate its quality because it's the logical way the route should go, a direct finish to the route Pfeilerweg. The crux is even more in line with the difficulty of the lower section. However, the crux is so damn tricky! Good luck onsighting this!It's the same line as Pfeilerweg, with the same start and middle, but the exit to the shared anchor is more direct (still not exactly "direct" though)....[more]Browse More Classics in International