2 or 3 pitches of moderate cracks up the Red Wall. Good intro to multi pitch trad.
P1 - 5.6 - Begins in a blocky corner, on the far right side of the Red Wall. After 25 ft head striaght up into open book (5.7) or cut left and keep going up untill a nice belay ledge is reached. Belay from medium sized gear.
P2 - 5.6 - Head straight up from belay ledge and take it all the way to the top from here or stop on one of two smaller ledges to belay. At the top theres a 20ft sec of 4 inches.
4th class scramble to the top.
Far right side of Red Wall.
Small trad rack to 4". Remember its all gear belays.
BETA PHOTO: Gear anchors, bring plenty of materials if you wan...
Sarah relaxing at our belay at the top of pitch on...
BETA PHOTO: looking up at MOSCOW pitch one.
Moscow (5.6) on the Red Wall as seen from across t...
Lucas getting into the OW on Moscow
Beginning of the first pitch
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 17, 2008
Fun climb. Fun, steep 5.6. Nice shady escape in the late afternoon.
quick note: Ron Horton's 2006 Weekend Rock Oregon guide book notes chain anchors at the top of each pitch. Not so much. (at least we never saw them - and no other book, or this web page, say anything about chain anchors) I thought it was a lot of fun to top out after 3 pitches, but would say bring your trail shoes or sandals, as it's quite the little hike down on the trail back to the base.
Also, at the top of the 3rd pitch, the wide crack up steep slab (25 feet?) takes mostly just #4 Camalots (#3 was a little to small) - if you aren't especially comfortable on 5.6 wide crack, you may want to make sure you have at least one or two #4's to protect it.
From: Portland, Oregon
May 7, 2010
I would concur with the above comment. There are no chain anchors on the route. I brought a #4 Camalot and used it in the wide crack on the 2nd pitch. Two would be over kill I think. I also found a red tricam placement on the right high on the wall above the wide crack just before the finish at the top pitch 2. Tricams are the bomb at Smith in some of the pockets.
Awesome route. Just finished it with my new partner. We topped out just as the light dimmmed into nothingness. The walk off was fairly easy to find. It wanders to the left. As it starts to dip down look for a cairn on a ledge to show the way up to the correct trail.
|By Zak Krenzer|
From: Puyallup, WA
May 6, 2013
+1 on the lack of bolts, bring your own anchor material! 5-4-2013
Fun route, Sunny in the morning, shady in the early afternoon. The top out is certainly 4th class. I wouldn't recommend topping out without a comfortable pair of shoes for the decent on misery ridge which is fairly easy to find. Head down until you see the trail and work your to a boot path until you reach a ledge. Follow the trail to your right.
Ended up taking 1 #4 and 1 3.5# and it was sufficiently comfortable for my skill level.
|By Andy P.|
From: Madison, WI
May 8, 2013
+1 for big gear. Personally, at the top of the third pitch in the wide slab crack my ankles were feeling very tired and I didn't feel like doing the foot and calf mash into the crack. Although it would have made it easier to jam, I went up it using super thin face holds and was quite happy I brought along two #4's (WC Helium Friends) for this balance-y and unexpected end to a route which is mostly short boulder problems and plentiful ledges.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Sep 12, 2013
Expect this to keep your attention with lots of moves at the grade if you're at your leading limit. Improbably steep climbing for 5.6, something great on every pitch, and a very "alpine-like" feel, especially the first pitch. Views from the top are spectacular. Bring big gear.