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Elevation: 445 ft
GPS: 37.89328, -122.2724
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 115,550 total · 436/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

A small yet dense collection of quality routes, approximately 100 ft. up the hill from Indian rock. This is a bouldering area, and some of the routes may be considered highball.

The area is usually in the shade, with help from some large trees that hide most of the rock from Indian Rock Ave.

Descent is a simple walk off the back using the steps.

If you're up to it, Nat's Taverse (V8) is a must do.

Nat's Traverse, along with Grizzly Peak Traverse at Grizzly Peak Boulders and Gomers Pile at Cragmont Park, make up what was called the Triple Crown. The real challenge was to do all three in one session, and run between them (though driving is probably acceptable these days). For extra credit do all three three times each.

Park History                                                                                                                                                                                            
Mortar Rock Park was a gift to the City of Berkeley from Mason-McDuffie Real Estate Company during its development of the Northbrae area. The company owner, Duncan McDuffie was a real estate mogul, but among other things, he was a mountaineer and served as the Sierra Club president. It was dedicated for park purposes in 1917.

Geology

Mortar Rock is comprised of a type of Rhyolite that is unique to the hills of Berkeley. Named Northbrae Rhyolite by Andrew Lawson in 1914, after the residential neighborhood in which these rock formations can be seen.

Rhyolite is a type of igneous rock, which means it is solidified magma or lava. It is classified as being felsic (rich in feldspar and quartz minerals), and porphyritic (larger/coarse mineral composition that is visible to the naked eye). The size of the mineral composition is based on how slow the magma cools, which is relative to how deep within the earth it is. The deeper the magma pocket, the slower it cools allowing the minerals time to become larger. The Northbrae variety is far more porphyritic than most rhyolite. 

Mortar Rock also contains many large feldspar mineral deposits on its top edge, which are commonplace in many igneous rocks but no less aesthetically pleasing . They can be seen and admired (and frequently grabbed) while assisting you in toping out your proj. Yes some of these are also quartz (the glassy looking ones), but most are orthoclase or plagioclase feldspar (white, opaque and blocky). Next time you send, say thank you Feldspar.

Park and Climbing Etiquette

Remember this is also a public park in the middle of a neighborhood. Make sure to pick up after yourself (if need be pick up after others), and be friendly and courteous to any non-climbers. Don't forget to cheer others on and make this a fun and inviting climbing area for everyone, regardless of climbing ability.

Getting There Suggest change

From the main rock, head up hill on Indian Rock Ave. The rock is about a block up on the right side. Approach time: 2 minutes from the main rock, 10 seconds if you park on the street by Mortar rock.

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mortar Rock Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 60
The Hand Traverse (Warmup)
Boulder
V2 5+ R
 47
Bench Wall
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 37
Rimshot
Boulder
V4 6B
 185
The Ramp
Boulder
V4 6B
 30
The Girls' Problem (stand)
Boulder
V5 6C
 118
Sunshine (sit)
Boulder
V6- 7A
 93
Black Plague
Boulder
V6 7A
 26
Baby Nat's
Boulder
V8 7B
 15
Stan's Traverse
Boulder
V8-9 7B+
 20
Impossible Wall
Boulder
V9 7C
 8
Mission Impossible
Boulder
V10+ 7C+
 7
Full Fever
Boulder
V11 8A
 5
The Kraken
Boulder
V12 8A+
 4
The Odyssey Sit
Boulder
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c V8 7B
 60
Nat's Traverse
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Hand Traverse (Warmup) Hand Traverse Boulder
 60
V1 5 Boulder
Bench Wall Mortar Rock
 47
V2 5+ R Boulder
Rimshot Hand Traverse Boulder
 37
V2-3 5+ Boulder
The Ramp Mortar Rock
 185
V4 6B Boulder
The Girls' Problem (stand) Hand Traverse Boulder
 30
V4 6B Boulder
Sunshine (sit) Mortar Rock
 118
V5 6C Boulder
Black Plague Mortar Rock
 93
V6- 7A Boulder
Baby Nat's Mortar Rock
 26
V6 7A Boulder
Stan's Traverse Mortar Rock
 15
V8 7B Boulder
Impossible Wall Mortar Rock
 20
V8-9 7B+ Boulder
Mission Impossible Mortar Rock
 8
V9 7C Boulder
Full Fever Mortar Rock
 7
V10+ 7C+ Boulder
The Kraken Mortar Rock
 5
V11 8A Boulder
The Odyssey Sit Mortar Rock
 4
V12 8A+ Boulder
Nat's Traverse Mortar Rock
 60
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c V8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Mortar Rock Park »

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