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Morrison Boulders

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5.8 Boulder 
Black Hole, The 
Cockpit, The 
Dark Side, The 
Lobby, The 
Magnum Block 
Mezzanine 
Nautilus 
Sailor's Delight Block 
Spike Rock 
Tree Slab 

Morrison Boulders 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,800'
Location: 39.65216, -105.18539 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 307,529
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Nov 30, 1999
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More bouldering at Morrison Wall north-end.

Description 

Morrison is a classic Front Range bouldering area. It's likely best known for the problems in The Lobby and Black Hole, on the cliffside north of town. Here one will find a hardman's delight, offering a number of classic problems, linkups, and eliminations at V5 and above. Most problems tackle greasy slopers with a few wicked crimps interspersed. North Morrison receives high traffic, which is good and bad. The area is dirty and polished. However, here one can receive a gym like workout, on real rock, in an encouraging atmosphere. Everyone knows your name, or at least the beta. I know there is alternative, quality bouldering around Morrison that climbs actual boulders. Having never climbed them, I'll depend on others to add this to the site.


Getting There 

Easy. From Boulder, take CO 93 to Golden, US Highway 6 to C-470 heading South, and get off 5-10 minutes later at Morrison. Take a right after exiting. One can also take a right just past Golden on Heritage Rd, which becomes a highway that goes by Red Rocks and spits you out into Morrison on the west side. From Denver, take US 285 to C-470, then head north the the Morrison exit, and take a left into town.


135 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',60],['1 Star',31],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',52],['V4-5',37],['V6-7',16],['V8-9',14],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morrison Boulders:
Center or Regular Problem aka Fire and Ice Simulator   V0 4     Boulder   Tree Slab
Bearded Lady (aka Hand Crack)   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   The Dark Side
In the Beginning   V1 5     Boulder, 13'   The Dark Side
Breashears' Crack   V1 5     Boulder   The Black Hole
Super Slab   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   The Dark Side
Breashear's Crack II   V3 6A     Boulder, 19'   The Dark Side
High Gravity aka Slots   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   The Dark Side
Upper Wisdom   V3 6A     Boulder, 25'   The Black Hole
MoSo Roof   V4 6B     Boulder   The Dark Side
Squirming Coil   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   The Dark Side
Helicopter   V5 6C     Boulder   The Black Hole
Air Jordan   V5 6C     Boulder   The Black Hole
Double Arete   V5 6C     Boulder, 16'   The Dark Side
Missile   V5 6C     Boulder   The Black Hole
The Slapper   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 15'   The Dark Side
Dasani   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 10'   The Dark Side
Midnight Express (aka CJMD)   V7 7A+     Boulder   The Black Hole
Arrowhead Arete Low   V8 7B     Boulder   The Dark Side
Cytogrinder   V8 7B     Boulder   The Black Hole
Rupture - V5-V7   V? R     Boulder, 10'   The Dark Side
Browse More Classics in Morrison Boulders

Featured Route For Morrison Boulders
Beta photo.

Dasani V5-6 6C+  CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Dark Side
This is the first route you come to as the trail comes up over the hogback onto the west side. Once you get on the west slope, look down the hill to the right about 20 feet and you'll see a slightly overhanging arete with chalk. Start on the right side in a good horizontal crack, work your way up and left along the arete through an undercling till you reach a long throw to the lip. Mantle over....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Morrison Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Location of climbing routes and anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Location of climbing routes and anchors.
Location of Morrison Boulders.
BETA PHOTO: Location of Morrison Boulders.
Jim Holloway bouldering in the Black Hole, Morrison. Photo: Holloway Collection.
Jim Holloway bouldering in the Black Hole, Morriso...
Morrison bouldering master Rufus Miller traverse training in the Black Hole, Morrison Wall, photo: Bob Horan.
Morrison bouldering master Rufus Miller traverse t...
Olaf Mitchell and Noel Childs bouldering at the Morrison Wall, circa 1986, photo: Bob Horan.
Olaf Mitchell and Noel Childs bouldering at the Mo...
Trevor projectin' at the Nosebleed Section.
Trevor projectin' at the Nosebleed Section.
Luke Childers pulling into the crux section of "Wisdom (V7)."
Luke Childers pulling into the crux section of "Wi...
Chuck Lepley somewhere in Morrison.
Chuck Lepley somewhere in Morrison.
Chuck Lepley bouldering in Morrison.
Chuck Lepley bouldering in Morrison.
Luke Childers climbing on "Air Jordan."  Morrison, Co.
Luke Childers climbing on "Air Jordan." Morrison,...
Comments on Morrison Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2012
By Quinn Stevens
From: Denver, CO
Dec 17, 2002

The people I climb with and have met at Morrison recognize the area for what it is - a dirty grotto that gives you a chance to have a solid workout on real rock. For myself it's not too much different than a gym, but at least it's outside. Futher, you can climb comfortably at Morrison when it's practicly snowing. While many problems are contrived, last time I checked they have been recognized as such on this site. It's not like you dip shits are offering any new information.

I understand the idea that the locals take the climbing too seriously. But I hope anyone who says that has never spent too much time climbing in a gym - the point being, everyone takes their silly climbing interests too seriously. Morrison is what it is. Some enjoy it and obviously others don't. Little pricks who have problems with that don't impress anybody except themselves.

By Matthew Brejcha
Jan 14, 2003

Stick it to them Quinn, Morrison is agreat place to hang out and have a good time. It has some great problems if you have the beta, maybe I like it so much because it's 3 minutes from my house but that is beside the point. If you know what your looking for and like to climb with some cool, friendly folks Morrison is the place to be, if not don't complain about how you don't like it and just go somewhere else.

By Schmidty
Apr 4, 2003

Quinn and Nate, You guys are right on. Morrison is an outdoor gym with a high level of hard problems in a concentrated area, that's what makes it great. Schmidty

By Joel Gillmore
Apr 30, 2003

My buddy wayne romanchuck downclimbed this line, pretty cool!

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Jan 13, 2004

What the hell! The comment up top attributed to me is not mine. I just happened to stumble upon this, appearantly anyone can scroll down and use someone else's name. For the record I bouldered there consistantly through the first half of the 90's. Before gyms this was a great place to develop contact strength; and there are many classic- albeit ancient- problems every local climber should be familiar with. As to the a-hole who used my name for that pompous statement up top, grow some hair on your balls and move out of your mom's basement.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 25, 2005

I've been learning to climb at an indoor gym and would like to move things outside and try out some natural challenges. I live close to Morrison so can find it easy enough, but WHERE in Morrison exactly is it? I'm looking to do some easy boldering.

Thanks for any help.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 4, 2005

Morrison vandalized. Cleanup scheduled for 3/5/05.

www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=82969&forum=>>>

www.boards2go.com/boards/board.cgi?user=mbrooks

By Alan Klein
Jul 12, 2005

If coming from [Denver], take [Morrison] exit off of [C470]. take first right past the foothills. park in the first lot at the base of the foothills, climb up the hill, and find any area you want all along the whole backside of the foothill. I've done quite a few leads up random places that look like a nice challenge. there's not too many bolts anywhere...which is fine you just have to find your own way up. numerous possibilities, although any climbs are likely to be only at a low 5.8 5.9 level. sure if you want there's plenty of places to set up a top rope. it's a nice climbing area. good rock (granite?) not one of the most prime spots though. a lot more bouldering than anything.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 13, 2005

Alan, Morrison is Dakota Sandstone, not granite. You have to go a little further west for that.

By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Mar 22, 2007

For many years we had this place all to ourselves. When it was cold and snowy, the gang from Bolder came down. We put up most of the obvious stuff and had a real good time. It was our club! It's where we trained and met our adventurer partners. It was a great scene, and I hope that it still is.

By PbPaul
From: Denver, CO
Apr 28, 2008

I was looking around for the hill that leads up forever. When the four of us parked at the parking lot, just outside of the small town of Morrison, a block away from The Morrison Inn, we looked around for a trail.

We seen a very small trail to the left, and followed that until we ran into a little excavation site, went back, then tried going straight up. We stopped because we figured that there would be an obvious trail. Where is the trail up this hill, or were we at the wrong spot to go bouldering? Would anyone give detailed directions from this parking lot, please.

We ended up going all the way to Red Rocks, crossing over and doing that trail, looking for some rock to boulder... But there wasn't anything decent, especially something with a safe fall.

By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Apr 30, 2008

PbPaul: I believe you were asking where the main area to boulder at Morrison is; it is very straightforward and it sounds like you just missed it. Here is a map showing parking spots and where the two boulder areas are:

Google Map Link

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 1, 2008

Best bet is to hook up with a local. There are hundreds of problems here, and many are very good quality. I have seen many people come and go, and miss several "used to be" locals. Anyway, I could not help but have a laugh regarding the above climbers inability to find " the bouldering ". Hope you have found them, and may your forearms last a good long time>

By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 15, 2009

Left a nice new guidebook there today. It's either soaked in rain or somebody grabbed it already, but since I live in Colorado Springs I guess it's my donation to somebody. Maybe I shouldn't have tried to pick up trash because I only ended up leaving some of my own.

By Helldorado
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2010

I went to Morrison a few months ago and I don't plan on returning... ever. It is by far the shittiest/worst place to go climbing, or just to go in general. If you love greasy, varnished handholds, packs of dogs running beneath you while you climb, crowds so big you can't even get on anything, and a day of incessant traffic noise and dirty looks from the locals, then you're in luck, because shitty-ass Morrison is the place for you!

But in all seriousness, if you want to check this place out, don't even bother, it's too crowded to even climb anything, and most of the problems aren't even worth doing anyway. Do yourself a favor and go to the gym, where you'll actually be able to get on something, or a legitimate climbing area.

Flame away people, but this place is just sad.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Feb 1, 2010

I checked out this guy's profile...there should be an age limit to contribute to this site.... Maybe your dad will buy you your own bouldering area....

By Blkjesus
Jul 7, 2010

Question on South Mountain in Morrison? I've been working on a problem that people have been referencing as "Rapture": It starts low in a crack to a nice undercling, a reach of to a horn, and then you ride a rail to a slap on an arete and then work your way up. The problem is I can't find any info on the problem and I'm not believing everyone when they say that it's a V9 problem especially, since it looks like someone to a hammer punch to the crux on the rail. If anyone can lend some input, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks all,
and keep climbing.

By Clayton James
From: Boulder, Colorado
Nov 9, 2011

As of today, November 9th, the "plush" (read: disgusting) carpet in the Black Hole has been carried out and disposed of. We felt it was time that something be done about the eyesore. The crag looks much better now! I hope that everyone is psyched on their winter projects... see you out there!

By Jon Sauls
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 5, 2012

Can anyone tell me what problem this is and its rating? I have scoured the internet looking for it with no luck. It is the 1st problem in this video: youtu.be/Gvy0cz-NOhA.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jul 7, 2012

Moso Roof!!

mountainproject.com/v/moso-roof/106360721