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g. The Morning Wall Area
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Morning Wall T 

Morning Wall 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Larry S on Jul 14, 2014

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  • Description 

    From the start ledge, step left around the arete. Make a few tenuous moves up and clip the bolt above. (*V1) Trend slightly right up a shallow and steep corner with small holds, sidepulls, and small gear (wires). Continue up to and past a large horizontal (Crux, a not very well protected, possible large cam, maybe 4 or 5?). Continue up slightly easier and better protected ground to the right end of the roof, which is passed in a steep open book with a finger crack.

    Continue up to a second corner 15 feet from the top. Either traverse hard left approx 30' (sparse looking pro on questionable looking rock) to the Morning Sickness anchors, or continue up the corner (difficult, but protected) to the cliff top (very heavy foliage, get ready to pull on rhododendrons) and belay at a tree.

    From the morning sickness anchors, descend via a 2 rope rappel. From the cliff top, carefully work up-hill to a faint climbers trail and hike to the surprise anchor tree. Descend as for Surprise (one 35m rap, or stop at a mid wall bolt anchor)

    • V1 - Some guidebooks describe this route as following morning sickness to the roof, then traversing 12' right under the roof to rejoin the route as described above.

    Location 

    Begin on a ledge with a 2 bolt belay/rap station halfway up the wall on the Left side of the gully next to Surprise. The ledge can be attained by the first pitch of Hidden Passage (currently very Overgrown) or by climbing Wine Coulour and performing a spooky traverse left (loose rock)

    Protection 

    Primarily Small wires and small-medium cams - doubles of .5 & .75 helpful. Possible large cam to protect crux. The bolt anchors at the start ledge were recently replaced (2013). The first bolt looks decent (older stainless steel wedge bolt and hanger). Condition of the morning sickness anchors was not assessed.


    Comments on Morning Wall Add Comment
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    By Conor Mark
    Jul 15, 2014

    Both the Holtzman guide and the '89 Steele guide say there are two bolts and a pin on this, and to move right under the roof to the crack. Only saw the first bolt, just above the belay, the roof is passed straight above the corner.
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