Morning Town  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Steve McCorkel and Ken Duncan, 2010 New Route:  Yes Season:  year round (afternoon in summer) Submitted By:  Bernard Gillett on Jul 10, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sunrise on Morning Town. Paul Foster at the botto...

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Description 

Morning Town is a brilliant pitch connecting the lower part of GBD with the upper half of Tres Cojones e un Cuernito. It is useful as a warmup for the harder routes on this wall, though this pitch alone is worth the hike up there. It can also be added to any route that reaches the top of either the main buttress or the left buttress of Mary's Bust.

Clip the first 3 bolts of GBD, then continue to traverse up and right toward the 6th bolt on Tres Cojones (one additional bolt on neither route protects the connecting traverse). Continue up the flake on Tres Cojones (gear) to its bolt protected finish. The crux comes at the very last moves.

The exposure on this route is instantaneous, a little reminiscent of Rosy Crucifixion in Eldorado (the air isn't as big, but it's a great position regardless).

Location 

This route begins on GBD, the leftmost bolt line on the Golden Hall (see topo), and traverses right to join the upper half of Tres Cojones. Lower 75-80 feet from chains.

Protection 

An optional #0.5 Camalot can be placed before reaching the first bolt on GBD (remove it after reaching the bolt). A set of wires is plenty for the flake portion of Tres Cojones, though 5.10 leaders will appreciate having a #0.4 and #2 Camalot along for extra options. A couple long slings help to reduce rope drag (especially helpful on bolt 2).