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Wipeyur Buttress
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Brown Bunny S 
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Heinous Anus  S 
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Junk in the Trunk S 
Morning Thunder S 
Mr. Hanky S 
Paper S 
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Silent But Deadly S 
Snapping Station S 
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Turd Burglar S 
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Upperdeck-n-spackle S 

Morning Thunder 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Little help here?
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: J. Albers on Oct 9, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Butt...

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Description 

'Morning Thunder' is a wonderfully continuous climb up a very nice panel of quality red granite. The main portion of the climb consists of sustained 5.11 and 5.12 climbing on fantastic incut edges and sidepulls.

Begin by working up past three bolts that protect the approach gully to the base of the climb proper. Next head straight up clipping 8 bolts before glancing right after the eighth bolt to the anchors shared with the route to the immediate right (Chocolate Corner).

The crux for most will be a sequence about 2/3 of the way up the route where you must make a series of moves using a vertical, shallow, flaring crack for your right hand before making a long move to a decent left hand hold and a brief rest - the fun part is that this section comes after you have already done several 5.12 sections!! The climbing is difficult from the moment you step out of the gully until you latch a key jug above the final bolt.

Location 

Morning Thunder is the second route as you climb up the gully that begins on the far left side of the Wipeyur Buttress (the first is Heinous Anus).

Protection 

11 bolts (including 3 bolts in the approach gully) plus anchors.


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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 9, 2012

A quick note about the grade. One of my guides calls it 12d/13a, and one calls it 12d. I originally thought that this route was about 12c; however, my partner told me that I was being a bit harsh (i.e. a dick!!). There are not any 13a (or even 12d) moves on this route, but the route does have quite a lot of 5.12 climbing without any real rest stances; thus perhaps 12d is fair. Regardless, this route is excellent. Get on it.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I think 12d is probably fair for this route. Agreed that there aren't any shutdown moves on it, but by the time you get to the crux, you have some wear and tear on you. When I tried it the first time, I thought I would get it really quick, but I kept unraveling at the crux, and it took me more tries than I thought it would. Great route, the climbing is superb on this one.